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My HX40 install

Update time. I'm getting ready to throw some more fuel in the engine so before I do that I'm doing what I can to get more air through the engine. Part of that plan is upgrading the wheels in the turbo.

I ordered both turbine and compressor wheels from Turbo Lab of America. I'm changing from a 12 blade turbine wheel to a 10 blade one in an attempt to improve exhaust flow by reducing exhaust restriction. I'm guessing this will slow the spool, but I'm hoping the billet compressor wheel helps to offset that due to the decreased weight. Then once spooled up the improved compressor wheel design should push more air into the engine.

I ordered the wheels off Amazon last Wednesday night and they showed up at my door Saturday morning, so pretty quick service. They came assembled to each other and there was a note on the back of the compressor wheel stating, "install with torch". I could not pull the wheel off by hand, so I gently heated the wheel with a propane torch for about 10 seconds and sure enough it came right off. Interestingly, I didn't have to reheat the compressor wheel to get it to go back on....it slipped on, no problem.

I decided that I would use the bearing housing from the first HX40 I bought so I could just do a cartridge swap and reduce the amount of time the truck was down. I did the cartridge rebuild tonight. I didn't document the rebuild because that information is already available, but I did measure the Turbo Lab wheels to verify specifications. Unfortunately I don't have a scale so I can't compare the weights of the 2 compressor wheels, but I did do some inducer and exducer measuring. The cool thing I learned while doing this is what it means for a compressor wheel to have extended tips - once in my possession it was apparent what they are and I also measured that.

We're hitting a cold snap over the next few days, so I won't be doing any "before" testing.....but next week it's going to be back up in the mid-30s (whoo-hoo!!!) for a few days straight so I'll be able to do the "before" testing, swap the cartridge and then do "after" testing.

Below are the pictures I took. I will post more updates as I have them.
As received 1.jpg As received 2.jpg As received 3.jpg Compressor note.jpg Compressor part number.jpg Compressors 1.jpg New compressor 1.jpg Old compressor 1.jpg Turbines 1.jpg
 
This kind of thing is precisely why I kept discussing Holset's years back when the 6.5 community was just starting to look at turbo options. Experimenting with Holsets or Holset CKO's is relatively easy, cost-effective, and considerable options.

Looking forward to seeing how you like this combination. My truck has the NV4500, 3.73's, 33" tires. It occasionally tows a heavy 26' GN carhauler, so I went with the CKO HX40Wii, for spool up/recovery on shifts.

Will be curious to see how your new combination spools up. With the 3" body lift done, I'm pretty sure there's adequate clearance for a center mount turbo. A true 4" downpipe & more symmetrical & efficient header/up pipe combo might spool the bigger turbine section fast enough to keep from falling below the torque curve on shifts?
 
SmithvilleD said:
This kind of thing is precisely why I kept discussing Holset's years back when the 6.5 community was just starting to look at turbo options. Experimenting with Holsets or Holset CKO's is relatively easy, cost-effective, and considerable options.

Looking forward to seeing how you like this combination. My truck has the NV4500, 3.73's, 33" tires. It occasionally tows a heavy 26' GN carhauler, so I went with the CKO HX40Wii, for spool up/recovery on shifts.

Will be curious to see how your new combination spools up. With the 3" body lift done, I'm pretty sure there's adequate clearance for a center mount turbo. A true 4" downpipe & more symmetrical & efficient header/up pipe combo might spool the bigger turbine section fast enough to keep from falling below the torque curve on shifts?
Click to expand...
I'd love to find out how that combo acts. I hope you try it and report back!
 
SmithvilleD said:
This kind of thing is precisely why I kept discussing Holset's years back when the 6.5 community was just starting to look at turbo options. Experimenting with Holsets or Holset CKO's is relatively easy, cost-effective, and considerable options.

Looking forward to seeing how you like this combination. My truck has the NV4500, 3.73's, 33" tires. It occasionally tows a heavy 26' GN carhauler, so I went with the CKO HX40Wii, for spool up/recovery on shifts.

Will be curious to see how your new combination spools up. With the 3" body lift done, I'm pretty sure there's adequate clearance for a center mount turbo. A true 4" downpipe & more symmetrical & efficient header/up pipe combo might spool the bigger turbine section fast enough to keep from falling below the torque curve on shifts?
Click to expand...
6.5, 8in8or and you have perhaps done the most mods I've seen then again I haven't seen them all but I'm very impressed with each projects.
 
Ok, I did some baseline runs today during lunch and took video. A couple comments before you watch the videos:

1. it's 22F ambient out today. Surely that skews the results a little. It's supposed to be warmer tomorrow so I'll try to redo these same videos at the higher temp.

2. the 0-60 time shown in the videos is a little slower than the best it will do. To guarantee repeatable results I simply matted the throttle from a stop, so that probably increased spool time a little. The other thing is that my tune isn't all I would like it to be - specifically the truck is actually faster at 7/8 throttle than full throttle. You can even watch the fuel pressure INCREASE at full throttle when compared to 7/8 throttle fuel pressure, which tells me that the engine is drawing less fuel. I talked to Bill Heath about this months ago and he thought it had something to do with the Delta cam, and at that time I hadn't noticed the fuel pressure phenomenon. Now I have the stock cam and it still does it so I'm sure there's something not right with the tune, but at this point I don't really care since I'm going mechanical. I just wanted to point that out.

Ok here are the videos
Here's 0-60 while watching the EGT and boost gauges

Here's 0-60 while watching the speedometer

Here's 0-60 while watching IAT on my scanner (this one is always hard to take and keep steady, I apologize in advance)

Here's cruising on the highway, first at 70mph, then at 80mph (I accelerated slowly between 70 and 80 so I wouldn't throw temps off too much)

Just for fun here's 60-100 on the highway.

This is documenting EGT, Boost and IAT at a steady 60mph cruise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KS0TYt5NTdU

Like I said, I'll try to take these videos again if it gets warmer before the cartridge swap.

Enjoy,
Nate
 
I see your steady state 60 mph no boost how is throttle response from there?

The inability to pump fuel up top appears to be a tune issue but could also be the DS4 limit. I'm curious about the DS4 Merlin pump and how it can put out more fuel up top.

Your DB2 move is perhaps the best way to go for fuel needs.
 
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FellowTraveler said:
I see your steady state 60 mph no boost how is throttle response from there?

The inability to pump fuel up top appears to be a tune issue but could also be the DS4 limit. I'm curious about the DS4 Merlin pump and how it can put out more fuel up top.

Your DB2 move is perhaps the best way to go for fuel needs.
Click to expand...
Throttle response is good. It actually seems to be about 1psi of boost at 60. I have good response at pretty much any speed other than off-idle....and even that isn't horrible.

Any other specific videos that would be good documentation?
 
n8in8or said:
Throttle response is good. It actually seems to be about 1psi of boost at 60. I have good response at pretty much any speed other than off-idle....and even that isn't horrible.

Any other specific videos that would be good documentation?
Click to expand...
I had adjusted my fly by wire pedal as it wasn't going all the way to the floor and I have the same fueling issue up top however I suspect the tune up top more than anything as Heath used a DS4 on his 500 HP build.

I see your acceleration is like mine very quick. There is way more mass air flow for sure than you had with the GM8 at higher psi levels those wheels jou installed just made that better.
 
FellowTraveler said:
I had adjusted my fly by wire pedal as it wasn't going all the way to the floor and I have the same fueling issue up top however I suspect the tune up top more than anything as Heath used a DS4 on his 500 HP build.

I see your acceleration is like mine very quick. There is way more mass air flow for sure than you had with the GM8 at higher psi levels those wheels jou installed just made that better.
Click to expand...
The new wheels aren't on yet, this is the baseline before I put the new wheels on. I still have the 64x76 12 blade turbine and 60x82 8 blade compressor wheel on right now. I'm hoping to swap the cartridge later this week.
 
Burning oil said:
Be curious to know PSI pre/post water cooled I/C.
Click to expand...
I'll see if I can hook some pre and post gauges up later this year. But having said that I feel very confident that I have very little pressure loss across the IC. The reason I say that is because the pressure the gauge is reading at the intake plenum didn't change from before I had the intercooler to after I installed the intercooler. Of course that could just mean that the intercooler and the stock upper intake have the same amount of restriction. Gauges will tell the story.
 
n8in8or said:
The new wheels aren't on yet, this is the baseline before I put the new wheels on. I still have the 64x76 12 blade turbine and 60x82 8 blade compressor wheel on right now. I'm hoping to swap the cartridge later this week.
Click to expand...
It figures I see now you commented at the end of post #92 my bad.
In any case that CKO is moving massive amounts of air even at 1 lb boost on gauge = 15.7 psi boost actual & just over 1.0 pressure ratio "or air it would have to pull in if N/A."
 
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