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My HX40 install

n8in8or said:
I just had the Tahoe weighed, and I'm kind of shocked at the weight....with a full tank of fuel, and subtracting my weight, it weighs 5700 pounds! :eek: I would have thought it was a good bit lighter than that, wow.
Click to expand...

They old girl hides it well haha. I knew the tahoes and Suburbans of your body style were tanks. That being said it does seem on the heavy side.
 
n8in8or said:
I just had the Tahoe weighed, and I'm kind of shocked at the weight....with a full tank of fuel, and subtracting my weight, it weighs 5700 pounds! :eek: I would have thought it was a good bit lighter than that, wow.
Click to expand...
Wow Nate, I figured it was probably around 5k, not 5,700! Wow, she's heavy.

Matt
 
Tranny went out in my 6.5 1500 is it cheaper to get it rebuilt or buy new and if so where can I find a good website to buy a tranyv

Stix88
 
What tranny are in the 6.5 1500 also thought about putting a 6.6 duramax and Allison transmission

Stix88
 
If I could offer some constructive criticism: Perhaps consider redesigning your turbine exit pipe for better exhaust flow at the turbine face.

Allow me to explain that a bit.

In a turbocharger with a wastegate, you want the exhaust rejoin to happen further down the stream rather than at the turbine face. What happens is that as the wastegate enters bypass, the exhaust impinges on the turbine rear face, which effects the pressure differential between the input and output face of the turbine.

The end result (in common terms) is like exhaust restriction behind the turbine.

Instead of an open adapter plate, make it two separate ports. Then extend the wastegate port into the chamber created to direct the bypass flow away from the rear turbine face and into its dedicated exhaust port. You can rejoin the main flow downstream where it will enter parallel instead of at (essentially) a 90 degree at the turbine face.

You can see and example of this in the BW EFR series turbos. It is built integral to the turbo in that series, but it is the same concept. You can search those turbos and will turn up some basic design concept on the bypass and it's benefits.

You can see here how they've tried to manage the exhaust rejoin with the angle:

DSCF3275.jpg~original


Same concept as a separate pipe. Avoid the 90 degree rejoin.

here's the concept on a turbo motorcycle (first pic I found on google) fince we all do better with pictures:

DSC01385.jpg


You can see how the wastegate is separated from the main flow. That's for a drag bike (and there's a bit more going on there than we need for this discussion, ignore the external gating) so they just exhaust it to atmosphere (called a "bark pipe" in ricer circles), but a street design would just blend into the pipe for a smooth exhaust rejoin.

You seem to have sufficient skills to build it, you might want to give it a go. Use at least stainless if you do. Gets pretty hot behind the turbine, even after it has extracted the required energy to spin the turbine.

You may elect to not do it though. It is about extracting that last little iota of performance from the design. On an old IDI, it may not make a huge difference and if you're happy with it "as is", it might not be worth your while.

Just something to think about.

:)
 
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FellowTraveler said:
Great white, this is the best way to go even if our 6.5 only go to 3.5k or 4.0k rpm's every little bit helps. I'm starting my 4" downpipe soon and will incorporate this tweak into the mix.
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It makes a difference, but I needed it on a dyno in order to see the difference in my twins.

Side mount single turbo it might not be worth the packaging hassles....
 
That makes perfect sense Great White, I appreciate the feedback. I think that sounds like a fun project to do sometime. I've already started thinking up fabricating some tubular headers in my head and I think I'll move the turbo up into a bit more central location when I do. This would then make an up-and-over crossover from the driver side make more sense since it would be a shorter route. This will also require some downpipe mods so that would be a perfect time to do what you suggest.

To handle the heat I will coat all the exhaust parts including the turbine housing in White Lightning.

http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

I think this will be a lot of fun to try, but probably not for a while since I have to first focus on getting the new engine built and then enjoying it gor a while pulling the camper. I'm definitrly saving the old engine for mockup purposes.
 
great white said:
It makes a difference, but I needed it on a dyno in order to see the difference in my twins.

Side mount single turbo it might not be worth the packaging hassles....
Click to expand...

Ha! Looks like we're thinking the same thing regarding packaging...
 
n8in8or said:
That makes perfect sense Great White, I appreciate the feedback. I think that sounds like a fun project to do sometime. I've already started thinking up fabricating some tubular headers in my head and I think I'll move the turbo up into a bit more central location when I do. This would then make an up-and-over crossover from the driver side make more sense since it would be a shorter route. This will also require some downpipe mods so that would be a perfect time to do what you suggest.

To handle the heat I will coat all the exhaust parts including the turbine housing in White Lightning.

http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

I think this will be a lot of fun to try, but probably not for a while since I have to first focus on getting the new engine built and then enjoying it gor a while pulling the camper. I'm definitrly saving the old engine for mockup purposes.
Click to expand...

As long as you're only doing it for fun I would say go for it. However, the power you will get for the effort (and $) you will put in isn't really worth it. 180-200 RWHP is fairly easy, but 250 RWHP requires a good bit of $ and time.

I've cracked 280 RWHP (with 300 in sight) and it just wasn't worth the effort....I'm dialed back down to 250 and staying there. My truck is at an evolutionary dead end for the design and I'm not building or programming on it any further.
 
That makes sense. Yeah partially for the fun and partially for the exploration of it. So far things have been breaking too fast for me to do things in logical steps and go to the dyno to verify results. Once I have the new engine built I hope to better document before and after. I appreciate hearing feom you guys that have been there and done that....that's what this community is all about. :D
 
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