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My HX40 install

Will L. said:
Not professional 1 nut? Hey, quicker spool next time, and enjoy the new mechanical lock nuts.
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I had used the serrated flange nuts before that I thought were going to be the hot ticket.....guess not. It's such a pain to get to the flange bolts on this thing that I didn't want to make it hard on myself trying to get it apart. The new header has a threaded flange so most of the problem will be gone. I'm still debating whether or not to put a little dab of thread locker on the bolts: part of me doesn't want to because I don't want it to be a struggle next time I take it apart (which I inevitably will) and another part of me thinks it would be a waste anyway due to the heat of the exhaust. I'm not sure how many parts of me I have, but I'm running out of parts that want to add thread locker.

Oh Leroy's clarification was my fault - I messaged him because I was afraid I had insulted him by calling him out in my video and he clarified that he thought it was professional of me to narrate the video and explain what's going on. :)

Hmmmm, maybe I should make holding the turbo on with one nut my trademark and I'll change my user name to Lance Armstrong...o_O
 
I got the Leroy/video referance from not talking in the prior video. You sure Lance, or are you Johnny off to the rodeo?

The new threaded flange is awesome. That the key. I say drill the bolt heads for safety wire, no thread locker use anti-seize. If you don't like safety wire then a couple of these. Just keep the pattern for when you start building these when evrybody wants one.
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Will L. said:
I got the Leroy/video referance from not talking in the prior video. You sure Lance, or are you Johnny off to the rodeo?

The new threaded flange is awesome. That the key. I say drill the bolt heads for safety wire, no thread locker use anti-seize. If you don't like safety wire then a couple of these. Just keep the pattern for when you start building these when evrybody wants one.
View attachment 47449
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Oh, that's a good idea, thanks.

I love anti-sieze, I'm like that little old lady on the Frank's Red Hot commercials...."I put that sh!t on everything!"
 
Why not thread exhaust studs into the new header's flange with some Mr. Gasket header nuts and lock washers to keep the turbo cinched down?
 
Husker6.5 said:
Why not thread exhaust studs into the new header's flange with some Mr. Gasket header nuts and lock washers to keep the turbo cinched down?
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Yeah that would probably work too. I can see me dropping the nuts about 10 times trying to get them on the studs, but otherwise it would probably work fine.
 
n8in8or said:
Yeah that would probably work too. I can see me dropping the nuts about 10 times trying to get them on the studs, but otherwise it would probably work fine.
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As you already know when you go bigger on the turbine housing (full sized HX40) it becomes harder to get those nuts & bolts on/off kind of like needing three hands..........
 
FellowTraveler said:
As you already know when you go bigger on the turbine housing (full sized HX40) it becomes harder to get those nuts & bolts on/off kind of like needing three hands..........
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True story. I dread any time I have to take the thing off, though in actuality it doesn't take THAT long....it just takes a long time to get 4 (or in my case 1 ;)) measly bolts loose.
 
I want to upgrade from the GM 4 to either a HX35w or HX40, how's your experience with CKO turbos been? Should I bother, or search for a real holset HXxx (used) and work with that?
 
94turbo- said:
I want to upgrade from the GM 4 to either a HX35w or HX40, how's your experience with CKO turbos been? Should I bother, or search for a real holset HXxx (used) and work with that?
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Lot's of people run CKO turbos w/o any issues whatsoever, the Holset CKO works just fine and spools quicker than other designs and has the anti-surge ports too.
 
94turbo- said:
I want to upgrade from the GM 4 to either a HX35w or HX40, how's your experience with CKO turbos been? Should I bother, or search for a real holset HXxx (used) and work with that?
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I think enough people with 6.5 diesels have had success with a CKO Holset that it has proven to be a worthy option. Like everything, you get what you pay for, so sure, you'd probably be better off with a genuine Holset if you can afford it. I think the biggest problem with the CKOs is you don't know what you are really getting as far as housing size and wheel sizes....it's sort of a crap shoot. Personally, I have had problems with the bushings wearing out, but the first time it was most definitely due to the antifreeze in my oil. The second time, I'm not sure why it was...it may have been a fluke or it was suggested to me outside of this thread that my oil drain may not be working well enough to keep the center housing washed with fresh oil. Just to be sure, I'll probably go with an improved drain setup....I may even get one from Leroy, you know, just so I can get another one of those sweet stickers. ;)
 
I know it was talked about, and those two recently graduated high school guys did it, one mechanically actuated and the other boost (or was it vacuum-controlled) to experiment with vane actuation on their 6.5's using the VVT turbos off of a Second Gen 6.6 Duramax [or maybe they were off of the Cummins, oldheimers strikes again]. They even made it into the Readers Rides section of Diesel Power with their "twin trucks". I know they posted here on TTS shortly after getting into DP and said they'd keep us posted on how they performed/which set-up worked better, but I can't recall either of them posting much, if anything, after their initial fame/notoriety.

I would think that that would be an ideal turbo for the 6.5 as far as a best of both worlds for low-end boost and high rpm exhaust flow with some added fuel and a CAC.
 
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