My 2005 Yukon XL

[MrMarty51]

I run the Autel Maxi200, as suggested by @Quadstar Tuning LLC
It about does it all I think.
I know it runs live data and resets SES lamps.
Thats about all that I have done with it.
Cost about $65.00 with the ALDL adaptor and runs through a phone app.
It does read timing and timing off set on our 6.5 enjuns.
It is brand specific so I chose GM for obvious reasons.

 

[MrMarty51]

It reads every sensor on the 6.5 thats connected through the ECM, PTCM.
Plus runs live data of all the sensors.
Best $65.00 I have ever spent on diagnostic equipment.

 

[DieselSlug]

might check out xtools

Will do, never heard of this one.

I use an app called Car Scanner on my iphone, its a paid app that I think cost 3.99 on the app store but uses a generic bluetooth OBD plug. so far it's worked on several newer vehicles. it does live data too. the app also has the option in the settings for usb, but you'd have to find an adapter to use it on your phone. I'm sure you can get that app on an android phone or tablet too. usb to micro usb or usb-c adapters are easier to find than one for the iphone.

I did see that. I want something on my computer (Windows) if I can as I already have a USB OBD Link. I would have to order a Bluetooth dongle. I was also looking at the Torque Pro.

 

[DieselSlug]

I run the Autel Maxi200, as suggested by @Quadstar Tuning LLC
It about does it all I think.
I know it runs live data and resets SES lamps.
Thats about all that I have done with it.
Cost about $65.00 with the ALDL adaptor and runs through a phone app.
It does read timing and timing off set on our 6.5 enjuns.
It is brand specific so I chose GM for obvious reasons.
View attachment 90957

I like the Autel stuff alot. I will look into it to see if they offer something for a Windows OS to use my OBDLink EX ELM327 cable.

If I have to spend some $ i would also like to get a program that does SRS and ABS as well.

 

[MrMarty51]

Will do, never heard of this one.

I did see that. I want something on my computer (Windows) if I can as I already have a USB OBD Link. I would have to order a Bluetooth dongle. I was also looking at the Torque Pro.

Torque Pro then add the PID files from @Quadstar Tuning LLC
Then it can do a whole lot more.

 

[Will L.]

In the ds4 hummer world- many guys use the scangauge2 because it plugs into obd2 and a bit of setting up lets it display i think 4 items at a time to monitor (boost, temp, etc). Attached to the dash works & looks ok. Read & clear codes but idk if it can do the timing. Definitely more than $65 but doesn’t need a phone or tablet.

On the Autel:
Could a guy permanently mount an old phone or tablet on the dash to Have it power up automatically each engine start and do the live data? On the tablet many people do this snd replace their stereo with a tablet or phone. Downloading music and tie to car speakers/amps. Phone navigation is on them all. Some pay monthly phone bill to have 100% service, so they get radio stations still via apps. Others choose not to pay but just have it there and plug in the house once in a while for updates and adding more music, apps, etc.

I wonder… if you can add a processor to handle sensors not in a current obd2 rig (like 6.5 has no maf sensor) and have them all correlate in an app that basically does everything the banks i gauge system does?

I know it’s possible. Just wander if it already exists.

for me, i prefer minimum 12 volts (no electronics) or jump all the way to 480v and get it over with! Haha. I like electricity, not electronics on my diesel. But the advantages are hard to deny can be good.

 

[DieselSlug]

In the ds4 hummer world- many guys use the scangauge2 because it plugs into obd2 and a bit of setting up lets it display i think 4 items at a time to monitor (boost, temp, etc). Attached to the dash works & looks ok. Read & clear codes but idk if it can do the timing. Definitely more than $65 but doesn’t need a phone or tablet.

On the Autel:
Could a guy permanently mount an old phone or tablet on the dash to Have it power up automatically each engine start and do the live data? On the tablet many people do this snd replace their stereo with a tablet or phone. Downloading music and tie to car speakers/amps. Phone navigation is on them all. Some pay monthly phone bill to have 100% service, so they get radio stations still via apps. Others choose not to pay but just have it there and plug in the house once in a while for updates and adding more music, apps, etc.

I wonder… if you can add a processor to handle sensors not in a current obd2 rig (like 6.5 has no maf sensor) and have them all correlate in an app that basically does everything the banks i gauge system does?

I know it’s possible. Just wander if it already exists.

for me, i prefer minimum 12 volts (no electronics) or jump all the way to 480v and get it over with! Haha. I like electricity, not electronics on my diesel. But the advantages are hard to deny can be good.

I actually do have a SGII in the Yukon, but it doesn't have PIDs for the items I need. It's good for monitoring more than the dash and checking lamens codes for sure. Due to the super generic PO300 code it's throwing and that code only, you need to go through a diagnostic procedure. This is one of the most hated GM codes.

Sounds like most just throw $ at the parts cannon plugs, wires, coils, upstream O2s, and manifold gaskets. Some other causes can be bad grounds and converter issues.

 

[DieselSlug]

Tried the OBD Auto Doctor and TechScan which is basically OBDWiz. They all pull up $06 data, but it is in hex code and I just cant correlate that to what the scanner is readying from charts found online. One per my understanding is GM has never released the true correlation data unlike Ford has. Also I believe my Yukon being an 05 has GMLAN and not CAN BUS which is the reason I cant get the predetermined misfire data up without a proessional level scanner.

So I went old school today and pulled plugs. #6 definitely has an issue it was wet after a long idle, #7 was a tad suspect as well, all others were dry.

#6 below:


Tad suspect #7 below with a little more carbon, but not wet. I think its fine:


A bunch of other comparisons on Bank 2 (Cyl 2,4, 8 was fine as well):


So all plug back in their homes, I swapped coil #6 with coil #4. Idled for 5-10 min and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. I then swapped #6 plug with #4 plug. Ran another 5-10 minutes and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. After all this I started the yukon and pulled the coil harness from #6 and there was a change in idle, same with 4 and 7. So the cylinders are trying to do something from what it seems.

New suspect items seem to be wiring to Cylinder #6 coil, obviously all the others on bank 2 are fine so I doubt this. An injector issue with cylinder 6? But wouldnt that be a lean condition, is it possible for an injector to stick "on"? ECU issue commanding #6?

 

[Will L.]

Tried the OBD Auto Doctor and TechScan which is basically OBDWiz. They all pull up $06 data, but it is in hex code and I just cant correlate that to what the scanner is readying from charts found online. One per my understanding is GM has never released the true correlation data unlike Ford has. Also I believe my Yukon being an 05 has GMLAN and not CAN BUS which is the reason I cant get the predetermined misfire data up without a proessional level scanner.

So I went old school today and pulled plugs. #6 definitely has an issue it was wet after a long idle, #7 was a tad suspect as well, all others were dry.

#6 below:
View attachment 90977

Tad suspect #7 below with a little more carbon, but not wet. I think its fine:
View attachment 90978

A bunch of other comparisons on Bank 2 (Cyl 2,4, 8 was fine as well):
View attachment 90979View attachment 90980

So all plug back in their homes, I swapped coil #6 with coil #4. Idled for 5-10 min and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. I then swapped #6 plug with #4 plug. Ran another 5-10 minutes and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. After all this I started the yukon and pulled the coil harness from #6 and there was a change in idle, same with 4 and 7. So the cylinders are trying to do something from what it seems.

New suspect items seem to be wiring to Cylinder #6 coil, obviously all the others on bank 2 are fine so I doubt this. An injector issue with cylinder 6? But wouldnt that be a lean condition, is it possible for an injector to stick "on"? ECU issue commanding #6?

Yup- I would chase the injectors next.
Normally when diagnosing and you pull the plugs- do compression test. Remembering gassers get a dry then wet test. Recording those numbers for long term tracking and diagnostics is a smart move imo.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah- the 300 is like the movie- you are about to go to war against the Spartans. Time to gear up and hunker down. Choose to do massive diagnostics at the beginning and like I mentioned before, write everything down in a notebook so you can track it all. Not just for this diagnosis but 4 years from now when that thing goes wonky and you wonder “is this wearing out or is this how it use to be”.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yup- I would chase the injectors next.
Normally when diagnosing and you pull the plugs- do compression test. Remembering gassers get a dry then wet test. Recording those numbers for long term tracking and diagnostics is a smart move imo.

Thats another item on my radar is compression test. I asked my buddy to bring his over later.

One other thing I have heard relations of, are pre-converter O2s. Ive never replaced wither of those in my ownership but looking at live scanner data they are oscillating voltage what seems normal to me. I did replace Bank 1 Sensor 2 a few weeks back when I did the manifold as I had a code for that sensor. Before I replaced it I also had the P0300 code for the first time. After replacing the drivers manifold and the O2 a few weeks ago it has now come back again. I dont think the O2 was in any relation to this since it was a post-converter O2.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yeah- the 300 is like the movie- you are about to go to war against the Spartans. Time to gear up and hunker down. Choose to do massive diagnostics at the beginning and like I mentioned before, write everything down in a notebook so you can track it all. Not just for this diagnosis but 4 years from now when that thing goes wonky and you wonder “is this wearing out or is this how it use to be”.

It is going in for alignment on Tuesday, so I may have them spend some diagnostic time on it too if they can. I have a feeling they will back me up, but this isnt my specialty. Its so tough now even on an 05 without serious scanner capability.