My 2005 Yukon XL

[MrMarty51]

I run the Autel Maxi200, as suggested by @Quadstar Tuning LLC
It about does it all I think.
I know it runs live data and resets SES lamps.
Thats about all that I have done with it.
Cost about $65.00 with the ALDL adaptor and runs through a phone app.
It does read timing and timing off set on our 6.5 enjuns.
It is brand specific so I chose GM for obvious reasons.

 

[MrMarty51]

It reads every sensor on the 6.5 thats connected through the ECM, PTCM.
Plus runs live data of all the sensors.
Best $65.00 I have ever spent on diagnostic equipment.

 

[DieselSlug]

might check out xtools

Will do, never heard of this one.

I use an app called Car Scanner on my iphone, its a paid app that I think cost 3.99 on the app store but uses a generic bluetooth OBD plug. so far it's worked on several newer vehicles. it does live data too. the app also has the option in the settings for usb, but you'd have to find an adapter to use it on your phone. I'm sure you can get that app on an android phone or tablet too. usb to micro usb or usb-c adapters are easier to find than one for the iphone.

I did see that. I want something on my computer (Windows) if I can as I already have a USB OBD Link. I would have to order a Bluetooth dongle. I was also looking at the Torque Pro.

 

[DieselSlug]

I run the Autel Maxi200, as suggested by @Quadstar Tuning LLC
It about does it all I think.
I know it runs live data and resets SES lamps.
Thats about all that I have done with it.
Cost about $65.00 with the ALDL adaptor and runs through a phone app.
It does read timing and timing off set on our 6.5 enjuns.
It is brand specific so I chose GM for obvious reasons.
View attachment 90957

I like the Autel stuff alot. I will look into it to see if they offer something for a Windows OS to use my OBDLink EX ELM327 cable.

If I have to spend some $ i would also like to get a program that does SRS and ABS as well.

 

[MrMarty51]

Will do, never heard of this one.

I did see that. I want something on my computer (Windows) if I can as I already have a USB OBD Link. I would have to order a Bluetooth dongle. I was also looking at the Torque Pro.

Torque Pro then add the PID files from @Quadstar Tuning LLC
Then it can do a whole lot more.

 

[Will L.]

In the ds4 hummer world- many guys use the scangauge2 because it plugs into obd2 and a bit of setting up lets it display i think 4 items at a time to monitor (boost, temp, etc). Attached to the dash works & looks ok. Read & clear codes but idk if it can do the timing. Definitely more than $65 but doesn’t need a phone or tablet.

On the Autel:
Could a guy permanently mount an old phone or tablet on the dash to Have it power up automatically each engine start and do the live data? On the tablet many people do this snd replace their stereo with a tablet or phone. Downloading music and tie to car speakers/amps. Phone navigation is on them all. Some pay monthly phone bill to have 100% service, so they get radio stations still via apps. Others choose not to pay but just have it there and plug in the house once in a while for updates and adding more music, apps, etc.

I wonder… if you can add a processor to handle sensors not in a current obd2 rig (like 6.5 has no maf sensor) and have them all correlate in an app that basically does everything the banks i gauge system does?

I know it’s possible. Just wander if it already exists.

for me, i prefer minimum 12 volts (no electronics) or jump all the way to 480v and get it over with! Haha. I like electricity, not electronics on my diesel. But the advantages are hard to deny can be good.

 

[DieselSlug]

In the ds4 hummer world- many guys use the scangauge2 because it plugs into obd2 and a bit of setting up lets it display i think 4 items at a time to monitor (boost, temp, etc). Attached to the dash works & looks ok. Read & clear codes but idk if it can do the timing. Definitely more than $65 but doesn’t need a phone or tablet.

On the Autel:
Could a guy permanently mount an old phone or tablet on the dash to Have it power up automatically each engine start and do the live data? On the tablet many people do this snd replace their stereo with a tablet or phone. Downloading music and tie to car speakers/amps. Phone navigation is on them all. Some pay monthly phone bill to have 100% service, so they get radio stations still via apps. Others choose not to pay but just have it there and plug in the house once in a while for updates and adding more music, apps, etc.

I wonder… if you can add a processor to handle sensors not in a current obd2 rig (like 6.5 has no maf sensor) and have them all correlate in an app that basically does everything the banks i gauge system does?

I know it’s possible. Just wander if it already exists.

for me, i prefer minimum 12 volts (no electronics) or jump all the way to 480v and get it over with! Haha. I like electricity, not electronics on my diesel. But the advantages are hard to deny can be good.

I actually do have a SGII in the Yukon, but it doesn't have PIDs for the items I need. It's good for monitoring more than the dash and checking lamens codes for sure. Due to the super generic PO300 code it's throwing and that code only, you need to go through a diagnostic procedure. This is one of the most hated GM codes.

Sounds like most just throw $ at the parts cannon plugs, wires, coils, upstream O2s, and manifold gaskets. Some other causes can be bad grounds and converter issues.

 

[DieselSlug]

Tried the OBD Auto Doctor and TechScan which is basically OBDWiz. They all pull up $06 data, but it is in hex code and I just cant correlate that to what the scanner is readying from charts found online. One per my understanding is GM has never released the true correlation data unlike Ford has. Also I believe my Yukon being an 05 has GMLAN and not CAN BUS which is the reason I cant get the predetermined misfire data up without a proessional level scanner.

So I went old school today and pulled plugs. #6 definitely has an issue it was wet after a long idle, #7 was a tad suspect as well, all others were dry.

#6 below:


Tad suspect #7 below with a little more carbon, but not wet. I think its fine:


A bunch of other comparisons on Bank 2 (Cyl 2,4, 8 was fine as well):


So all plug back in their homes, I swapped coil #6 with coil #4. Idled for 5-10 min and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. I then swapped #6 plug with #4 plug. Ran another 5-10 minutes and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. After all this I started the yukon and pulled the coil harness from #6 and there was a change in idle, same with 4 and 7. So the cylinders are trying to do something from what it seems.

New suspect items seem to be wiring to Cylinder #6 coil, obviously all the others on bank 2 are fine so I doubt this. An injector issue with cylinder 6? But wouldnt that be a lean condition, is it possible for an injector to stick "on"? ECU issue commanding #6?

 

[Will L.]

Tried the OBD Auto Doctor and TechScan which is basically OBDWiz. They all pull up $06 data, but it is in hex code and I just cant correlate that to what the scanner is readying from charts found online. One per my understanding is GM has never released the true correlation data unlike Ford has. Also I believe my Yukon being an 05 has GMLAN and not CAN BUS which is the reason I cant get the predetermined misfire data up without a proessional level scanner.

So I went old school today and pulled plugs. #6 definitely has an issue it was wet after a long idle, #7 was a tad suspect as well, all others were dry.

#6 below:
View attachment 90977

Tad suspect #7 below with a little more carbon, but not wet. I think its fine:
View attachment 90978

A bunch of other comparisons on Bank 2 (Cyl 2,4, 8 was fine as well):
View attachment 90979View attachment 90980

So all plug back in their homes, I swapped coil #6 with coil #4. Idled for 5-10 min and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. I then swapped #6 plug with #4 plug. Ran another 5-10 minutes and pulled each plug. Cylinder 6 plug still getting wet. After all this I started the yukon and pulled the coil harness from #6 and there was a change in idle, same with 4 and 7. So the cylinders are trying to do something from what it seems.

New suspect items seem to be wiring to Cylinder #6 coil, obviously all the others on bank 2 are fine so I doubt this. An injector issue with cylinder 6? But wouldnt that be a lean condition, is it possible for an injector to stick "on"? ECU issue commanding #6?

Yup- I would chase the injectors next.
Normally when diagnosing and you pull the plugs- do compression test. Remembering gassers get a dry then wet test. Recording those numbers for long term tracking and diagnostics is a smart move imo.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah- the 300 is like the movie- you are about to go to war against the Spartans. Time to gear up and hunker down. Choose to do massive diagnostics at the beginning and like I mentioned before, write everything down in a notebook so you can track it all. Not just for this diagnosis but 4 years from now when that thing goes wonky and you wonder “is this wearing out or is this how it use to be”.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yup- I would chase the injectors next.
Normally when diagnosing and you pull the plugs- do compression test. Remembering gassers get a dry then wet test. Recording those numbers for long term tracking and diagnostics is a smart move imo.

Thats another item on my radar is compression test. I asked my buddy to bring his over later.

One other thing I have heard relations of, are pre-converter O2s. Ive never replaced wither of those in my ownership but looking at live scanner data they are oscillating voltage what seems normal to me. I did replace Bank 1 Sensor 2 a few weeks back when I did the manifold as I had a code for that sensor. Before I replaced it I also had the P0300 code for the first time. After replacing the drivers manifold and the O2 a few weeks ago it has now come back again. I dont think the O2 was in any relation to this since it was a post-converter O2.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yeah- the 300 is like the movie- you are about to go to war against the Spartans. Time to gear up and hunker down. Choose to do massive diagnostics at the beginning and like I mentioned before, write everything down in a notebook so you can track it all. Not just for this diagnosis but 4 years from now when that thing goes wonky and you wonder “is this wearing out or is this how it use to be”.

It is going in for alignment on Tuesday, so I may have them spend some diagnostic time on it too if they can. I have a feeling they will back me up, but this isnt my specialty. Its so tough now even on an 05 without serious scanner capability.

 

[dbrannon79]

Maybe an injector pissing a stream vs atomized spray. My son-in-law's dad has an 03 box truck (van chassis) with a 6.0l engine. the engine is fubar now due to something in the PCM or wiring triggering the injectors to open and fill cylinders with fuel before cranking. it's hydro-locked on him several times. I tried messing with it to find the issue before fixing or replacing the engine. replacing injectors did nothing. wiggling harnesses all over never changed anything, but one in a while with the key off if you slam the drivers door the fuel pump will turn on, so will dash lights as if you turned the key to the run position! Funny thing is when you turn the key on, you can hear the constant shudder sound of the injectors rapidly firing as if something is making them pulse when it fills the cylinders with fuel.

replaced the switch but still does the same thing!. My only hope in fixing it would be to gut the entire rig pulling all of the dash and engine harness going though each wire one by one looking for a short or faulty connector. he picked that box truck up cheap, in it's previous life it had been impounded for transporting illegals in from our southern border, went on a chase only to end in a ditch.

 

[DieselSlug]

Messed with it more (touching wiring, ect) and the cel is now off. Not clue if it was anything I did. It definitely still has a noticeable shake to the idle, for now going to try and drive it on some short trips. Going to throw some new plugs at it too.

 

[ak diesel driver]

If you're not in a rush you could send your injectors to me and I could test and clean them.

 

[smokymtn65]

@DieselSlug do you have a fuel pressure gauge if so check for leak down, it may be dribbling (injector)

 

[DieselSlug]

If you're not in a rush you could send your injectors to me and I could test and clean them.

I appreciate that AK. We are leaving for FL the end of this month hopefully woth the Yukon for comfort and space so I am in a bit of a time crunch.

I went on RA and found new GM injectors for $90 each. That's a bit wild to replace them all at this moment, but I think I am going to the junkyard this week and try to find some lower mile injectors. At a minimum swap out #6 and run it for a while again, pull that plug for a another visual inspection to confirm.

@DieselSlug do you have a fuel pressure gauge if so check for leak down, it may be dribbling (injector)

My buddy with the compression gauges has one, I will ask to borrow as well. That's not a bad idea.

 

[dbrannon79]

Be careful with RA and GM parts. afaik they are not an authorized GM/Delco seller. iirc @Will L. will have lots to say on this matter! if #6 is giving solid issues, you might dry swapping it for another cylinder and see if the problem follows. if not, then do the same with the ignition coil. clean the spark plug on each swap so you can see visually too.

if you have a Harbor Freight nearby they sell a fuel pressure test kit for fairly cheap, I would vote to also check compression too if you haven't already a trick I learned on this is if compression isn't up to par, you can squirt some light oil or trans fluid in the cylinders, spin the engine over a couple times with the starter and plugs out. then reconnect the compression tester. if compression increases, you have worn rings. if there is no difference but still on the low end, it's valves not seating properly. carbon build up can be the reason for that. a simple dosing with a water bottle or the pour in type sea-foam/berrymans chemtool with high RPM on a warm engine can blow the carbon out. just be careful not to pour it in too fast causing a hydro-lock killing the engine. that's called the Italian tune-up LOL.

 

[DieselSlug]

Be careful with RA and GM parts. afaik they are not an authorized GM/Delco seller. iirc @Will L. will have lots to say on this matter! if #6 is giving solid issues, you might dry swapping it for another cylinder and see if the problem follows. if not, then do the same with the ignition coil. clean the spark plug on each swap so you can see visually too.

if you have a Harbor Freight nearby they sell a fuel pressure test kit for fairly cheap, I would vote to also check compression too if you haven't already a trick I learned on this is if compression isn't up to par, you can squirt some light oil or trans fluid in the cylinders, spin the engine over a couple times with the starter and plugs out. then reconnect the compression tester. if compression increases, you have worn rings. if there is no difference but still on the low end, it's valves not seating properly. carbon build up can be the reason for that. a simple dosing with a water bottle or the pour in type sea-foam/berrymans chemtool with high RPM on a warm engine can blow the carbon out. just be careful not to pour it in too fast causing a hydro-lock killing the engine. that's called the Italian tune-up LOL.

Wow crazy. Their "stock" pictures show GM Genuine and Separate AC Delco parts and numbers. That's misleading as hell!

I already tried swapping coils and plugs. Still extensive wetness to plug #6 after each run and pull for inspection. All other plugs on that bank loom good.

 

[dbrannon79]

try swapping the injectors around and see if it follows. while your at it, when you pull the fuel rail up, make sure all the injectors are still locked in the fuel rail and then pressure up the rail by running the fuel pump. check to see if #6 gets wet when fuel pressure is applied. it could be leaking though.