• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My 2005 Yukon XL

Got the new manifold installed. Made a fatal error that cost me a good 30 plus minutes of struggle.
20241026_121519.jpg

As you can see in this pic I forgot to pull the lower steering shaft back up after dropping the manifold down alongside the head. Yep, its now stuck below the manifold. 3 options came to mind: remove manifold, remove motor mount bolt, unbolt lower steering ahaft from the box. I picked removing the lower shaft from the box. All is well now, but stupid rookie mistake. Let a heat cycle go through to burn off the schmeg. Will need a re-torque to 18 ft lbs when it cools. The cold tick is now gone.

Got bank 1, sensor 2 replaced. Had a generic O2 code, in addition to that sepcific O2 sensor code. Needed some Map gas on this one.
20241026_130805.jpg

Next up is brake lines. The PO redid the rear lines, but both supply to the ABS module, and outs to the front wheels are scary looking. I broke 5 connections loose out of 8. The last 3 really need a line wrench going into the ABS block so I can goose it better without the fear of stripping. Last option will be to cut the line and throw a socket on there. For now they are soaking.
 
Last edited:
I ordered the Dorman SS complete prebent brake line kit. Hopefully the quality is good. From what I see on YouTube it looks well made woth accurate fitments. It took me a bit to find the right kit as my Yukon doesn't have the JL4 RPO code which is a different kit. JL4 indicates stabilitrak.

I also ordered new transmission cooler lines. This will be the second time I've replaced them already. I have the KNP RPO code which I guess is heavy duty cooling, or the aux cooler. Apparently I need the 3 lines as opposed to 2.

I also ordered 4 new upper control arm bushings opposed to the whole arms. Trying to save a little cost there as my upper ball joints have both been replaced already.
 
Yeah, if anything like my '98 K2500 Burb, you will need either a hydraulic press or one of those C-clamp type of ball joint press tools to get those bushings out of the arms.

Bigger question: Why didn't you replace the bushings while you had it apart to do the upper ball (and lower?) joints? It would have been just a couple of more bolts to remove and saved you all this labor tearing everything back apart that you already had back when you did the ball joints.

I'm one of those people who say to themselves, "Hey, I'm already here and it's not that much more work to go a bit further and replace X, Y and Z while I've already gotten it this far apart." kinda guys.

Like when I replaced the timing belt on my daughter's '97 Camry 2.2L. While I had the timing cover off to do the belt, I went ahead and replaced the water pump that the belt drives, the tensioner pulley and tensioner spring, the idler pulley, the oil pump shaft seal and oil pump cover seal, pulled the cam pulley and replaced the camshaft seal and replaced the front main seal, too. I figured the extra hour and a half spent doing all of that, while it was already all apart to do the timing belt, was FAR easier than if possibly in a few months having to spend another 5½ hours tearing down and putting back together everything yet again to replace a leaking water pump or oil pump seal.

Just my $1.98's worth of comment.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Yeah, if anything like my '98 K2500 Burb, you will need either a hydraulic press or one of those C-clamp type of ball joint press tools to get those bushings out of the arms.

Bigger question: Why didn't you replace the bushings while you had it apart to do the upper ball (and lower?) joints? It would have been just a couple of more bolts to remove and saved you all this labor tearing everything back apart that you already had back when you did the ball joints.

I'm one of those people who say to themselves, "Hey, I'm already here and it's not that much more work to go a bit further and replace X, Y and Z while I've already gotten it this far apart." kinda guys.

Like when I replaced the timing belt on my daughter's '97 Camry 2.2L. While I had the timing cover off to do the belt, I went ahead and replaced the water pump that the belt drives, the tensioner pulley and tensioner spring, the idler pulley, the oil pump shaft seal and oil pump cover seal, pulled the cam pulley and replaced the camshaft seal and replaced the front main seal, too. I figured the extra hour and a half spent doing all of that, while it was already all apart to do the timing belt, was FAR easier than if possibly in a few months having to spend another 5½ hours tearing down and putting back together everything yet again to replace a leaking water pump or oil pump seal.

Just my $1.98's worth of comment.
Click to expand...
You are 100% correct on that question.

So how it originally went down was that I launched the parts cannon at it before our last TN vacation 2 years ago now. When I did the big rocker job. Just a few days short of leaving for our trip, performing final inspections I found out the passenger upper ball joint had a small amount of play and the drivers had a ripped boot. I replaced both uppers and the next day we left for TN.

Since then, I've just driven the Yukon locally, so no big inspections since. Well NYS inspections, but they don't mean anything apparently.

A clunk has gotten way worse this year. Further inspection revealed the wasted bushing. I'm assuming since putting the plow on last winter has excellerated deterioration on an already shot bushing. So ultimately when I did the joints I couldn't identify play in the bushings. Ill admit, i was in a rush to replace the ball joints then, so maybe I didnt inspect the bushings close enough. They have always looked all cracked, but I am actually missing rubber now!
 
Something to think about is going with urethane bushings. with these you don't need to "remove" the bushing. just cut the rubber out or torch it out leaving the outer shell in the A-arm. it's what I want to go with when I do mine.
 
DieselSlug said:
My original intent was to go all TTX (uppers and lowers), but i just can't swing the cost right now.

I already ordered the Moog stuff, but what brand has the urethane ones? I plan to do all the lines, then the bushings last.
Click to expand...
Energy Suspension and Prothane are two that come to mind immediately. You can also get polyurethane control arm bushings with the metal shell already installed on them, for extra of course. Makes the swap SO much easier and cleaner that trying to cut/burn the old rubber bushings out and then cleaning up the shell just to find that it's too rusted/pitted to be useable. Just press out the old bushing assembly, clean up the bore in the control arm, lube and press in the new bushing/shell assembly.
 
RA and amazon both show the energy suspension and prothane kits for a reasonable price though I haven't seen them with the outer shells yet. I'm sure going direct would show them.
 
dbrannon79 said:
RA and amazon both show the energy suspension and prothane kits for a reasonable price though I haven't seen them with the outer shells yet. I'm sure going direct would show them.
Click to expand...
Other manufacturers than those two make them with the metal shells already on them. Now, whether for our application, I don't know, but when I just Googled 'polyurethane control arm bushings' up came not only Energy Suspension and Prothane, but pictures from other mfrs with what looked to be control arm bushings with new metal shells on them.
 
I went looking for the poly bushings and only see them without the shells as well, for now I think we will just press in the Moogs. I am still missing one of the 3 transmission lines, delayed in shipping. We also ordered 2-gallons of Fluid Film, that has been delayed over 2 weeks now. Of course the weather here has not been conducive to working in a gravel driveway.

I've also been scouring Market place for a set of wheels/tires, really looking for a bolt on and go option. Just crazy what most people are selling and trying to get $500 for. Most wheels are corroded badly or have bald tires on them. I did find a decent set of 16'' alloys (the ones my Yukon came with, currently have 17'' Avalanche wheels) about 45 minutes from me. Not horribly corroded, with Corsa Highway Terrain tires that have a lot of tread. Not sure on cast year yet, but if they are not rotted and within the last couple years I may try them.
 
Today sucked. Worst project of my life, and didn't even finish. Going to need a serious brake bleeding, I'm out of DOT 3 fluid too.
20241108_113240.jpg
20241108_131627.jpg
20241108_140737.jpg


The stupid trans lines didn't come with new clips. There is little to no access along the passenger side of a 4l60e. I replaced these lines about 2-3 years ago (along with the starter).....
20241108_150407.jpg
20241108_164255.jpg
20241108_164301.jpg

I had to step away tonight, getting the trans lines to clip in was just not in the cards. Save this job for your greatest enemy.
 
Last edited:
Any chance you can eliminate those clip in fittings on the trans and go with some threaded fittings like on the older rigs?

nice work on bending and shaping the new brake lines! open all 4 bleeders and pour in the fluid, let it gravity bleed while you have some cold snacks (beer) 🍻 sometimes you have to take a step away. might even go smoother when you get back at it!

you most likely will need a power bleeder to get the air out of the ABS system, but you can get most of it, enough so that you can take it to a shop with one to do the final bleeding if you don't want to invest into one.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Any chance you can eliminate those clip in fittings on the trans and go with some threaded fittings like on the older rigs?

nice work on bending and shaping the new brake lines! open all 4 bleeders and pour in the fluid, let it gravity bleed while you have some cold snacks (beer) 🍻 sometimes you have to take a step away. might even go smoother when you get back at it!

you most likely will need a power bleeder to get the air out of the ABS system, but you can get most of it, enough so that you can take it to a shop with one to do the final bleeding if you don't want to invest into one.
Click to expand...
I wanted too eliminate this stupid e-clip things, but I couldn't find a complete kit with all fittings and lines for under $300. In another time crunch again so I just got aftermarket replacements. I wanted GM stuff but it was over $200.

I'm going to get new thread in adapters today with new e-clips. So everything should go smooth once I get them.

The lines were a pre-bent SS kit, but it was hell to feed the lines in there. I don't have a power bleeder, just a home made bleeder out of a kids sippy cup and hose. Plan is to bleed the best I can, then when it goes in for an alignment to have the shop finish the bleed procedure.
 
Revisited the transmission line debacle. Ended up just unthreading the adapters. Going to get new ones. I think my issue is I wasn't re-installing the clips right. It's just damn near impossible up in their homeland. Of course now I am short 2 e-clips, and to get something quickly local you need to buy the entire fitting.

My 3rd transmission line is supposed to be showing up today. Fingers crossed so I can finish this ordeal tomorrow.
20241109_105455.jpg
Screenshot_20241108_201718_Chrome.jpg
 
Lube the ends of the lines up good and clip the new threaded ends on before installing, then once there in place if you can get a wrench up in there, thread them in with the line already connected. that might be easier to do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top