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My 2005 Yukon XL

Messed around with the ole parasitic draw test finally. I am drawing over 2.5A in resting state on the "Radio" fuse. I need to find out what is on that circuit. I do have radio issues, bose amp doesn't work. I checked the amp fuse, replaced the amp, changed the sub, and still nothing. The radio works. But no bass at all. Also the door chime is very faint.
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For now I pulled the fuse, we will do a test this week and leave it off the charger. Any chance one of you have a radio circuit wiring diagram for 03-06GM w/bose? Thanks!
 
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Change out the Bose head unit (radio). It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the preamp circuit, or the switching circuit that powers up the sub woofer amp, that is adding to the normal key off draw of the radio head unit's memory. The fact that you're not getting a sub amp turning on and powering up, nor sound from the subwoofer, after replacing both of those and the fuse for the sub amp points to the switching circuit being the culprit.
 
Not sure how much of a deal it is to get to the head unit main connector, but I would try disconnecting it and plug the fuse back in and see. that will verify if the head unit is the issue or there is something else on that circuit causing a draw.

Though I have never done the test using a digital meter, I have always used a test light looking at how bright or dim the bulb is. the ECM will always pull some, and can kill a battery if left sitting for a couple weeks. my Dodge ram will kill the battery flat in two weeks if I don't disconnect it.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Change out the Bose head unit (radio). It sounds like you have a short somewhere in the preamp circuit, or the switching circuit that powers up the sub woofer amp, that is adding to the normal key off draw of the radio head unit's memory. The fact that you're not getting a sub amp turning on and powering up, nor sound from the subwoofer, after replacing both of those and the fuse for the sub amp points to the switching circuit being the culprit.
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I agree, wish I could just get a JY unit on the cheap. But the stupid pass lock requires the dealer to unlock the vins.

Ive been meaning to replace the head unit, but it's a big cost. To make the remaining system operate correct (bose, steering controls, and rear entertainment) you need several wiring harnesses. The cheapest I can do it for is $250. I'm gonna try to find some schematics and pull this fuse for a few weeks to ensure this is it.
dbrannon79 said:
Not sure how much of a deal it is to get to the head unit main connector, but I would try disconnecting it and plug the fuse back in and see. that will verify if the head unit is the issue or there is something else on that circuit causing a draw.

Though I have never done the test using a digital meter, I have always used a test light looking at how bright or dim the bulb is. the ECM will always pull some, and can kill a battery if left sitting for a couple weeks. my Dodge ram will kill the battery flat in two weeks if I don't disconnect it.
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I jave been thinking about this. Issue is I need to rip the dash apart and pull the head unit to access the pigtail. It's definitely the next step as I know sometimes other items may be on the radio circuit.
 
Finally determined I had a battery issue. Assuming a cell was going bad. So far so good, I purchased 2-batteries for my future secondary install once I get the mounting plate finished. Old battery was dated 2018.
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I did get a cheaper lower CCA battery only 600 when it had an 800 in it knowing I was doubling up the batteries. Really just doing the dual for capacity sake when running the plow.
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Starting to come up with plans for the Yukon, we have a few trips planned the end of this year into next. Florida after Christmas for 2-weeks, then Outerbanks for a week in 2025 on spring break for a baseball clinic with the kids. Were looking at over 4K-miles coming up. I've got another big push to replce parts similar to when we first got the Yukon. List so far:
  • Tires (would like a set of newer take offs to just bolt on, Avalanche rims are getting kind of crummy);
  • Drivers exhaust manifold gasket replacement (2 broken studs);
  • Full bushing replacement in the front a-arms (I have a major clunk, been that way for a year or so now but cant find the culprit yet);
  • New OEM oil pressure sender (will make me sleep better);
  • New OEM crank position sensor (will make me sleep better);
  • Replace rust scale on passenger rear fenderwell with a small patch panel (I need to get to this while its a small area);
  • Replace radio system with aftermarket (ive still got the issue with no sub sounds).
Its going to be tough as we use this thing at least 2x a week plus every weekend. I may wait till fall to do the worst of this as we need it much less with camp closed. Tough to get the 5 of us and the dog to camp every weekend in the Jeep Gladiator.
 
Haven't touched my list yet, still just driving it. Got a code for bank 2, sensor 2. New delco unit arrived.
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I struggled getting the old one out, it's mashed against the frame and actually bent. Long story short I realized someone never put in the trans mount nuts from its last service at a shop. Back when I paid to get the new converters put on..... as you can tell these haven't had nuts for YEARS... I'm not happy about this.
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More to come...
 
dbrannon79 said:
So your trans has been twerking around all this time! I'd hate to think what kind of damage it would have caused if you had fed it the onions making the trans contact the floorboard!!!
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Yep, I have had driveline vibes for years. So long i cant remember when it started. Got the rear shaft refurbished and balanced in the meantime, didn't fix it. So I assumed it was a tire balance thing.

I think we found it...
 
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