My 2005 Yukon XL

[DieselSlug]

Got the timbrens in, lifted it a bit more than I hope. Started at 36.25" from ground to fender lip. Now almost 37.75" while the rear only measures 36. Will need a spacer for the back or maybe go to H2 coils?

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the headlight situation rectified, this is what it wanted:

 

[Will L.]

I used to sell & install Timbrens couple decades ago. There are times they are the perfect answer. Other times they ruin the ride. If they are only in contact when you add the temporary load, they will be ok. If they are in contact all the time you will not be happy

 

[DieselSlug]

I used to sell & install Timbrens couple decades ago. There are times they are the perfect answer. Other times they ruin the ride. If they are only in contact when you add the temporary load, they will be ok. If they are in contact all the time you will not be happy

I found out today just how correct you are. I had these on my 94 K2500 and never even noticed them, but my t-bars were cranked as well.

The Yukon is bouncy as hell right now and I hate it. I need a t-bar crank now to help get off the timbrens just like you said.

 

[Will L.]

They are overload springs only. Overload springs should be understood as just what the name says- they only come into play when tje vehicle is overloaded.

The post office requested a bid from me one time and I refused to install them. Enough for something like 40 mail trucks. I explain they were approaching their problem wrong application- but I was the only local distributor. So I sold them in the boxes. Hilariously I had them drop shipped via ups.

Another truck equipment shop installed them. The owner called me for help about the constant nuisance calls and I explained the problem of misuse. He finally started telling them to come see him in person. After tying up the management time driving back and forth and paying him to try different bandaids unsuccessfully (which he said wouldn’t work but they wanted to try “something”) they dumped twice the money into tryin to make them work instead of putting in heavier actual springs.

14 months later they paid me to remove them all. Airbags with on board compressor and automatic height control was the only thing to help. Since you own it rather than ‘driver who doesn’t care’ you could just have schrader valve and not meed the on board air.

 

[DieselSlug]

New plan is to crank the t-bars as little as possible to get some weight off the timbrens. Of course I am nose high now so will be putting a coil spacer in the rear to level, I hate squatted junk. This is all temporary, will eventually convert to coil struts in the front and the H2 springs out back.

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the 2 inch spacers out back and cranked the bars. They are shot, nearly 2 turns on the DS bolt and its nearly maxed. Currently 1-inch rake to the back.

 

[DieselSlug]

Went our for an unexpected jaunt tonight. A few noticeable things:

-The low beams are very dim for some reason. High beams seems to be sufficient. Contemplating on going aftermarket LED conversion, but it's strange why the low beams are so dim looking and not the high beams.

-We ran a few hills at 3-4K rpm, things got hot. Spiked at 238 before I realized and backed off. Ambient temps were about 45 degreed F. This rig has the electric fans, thinking water wetter and working on plow positioning better while driving. Never had overheating issues prior to plow install. Last bit may include some type of air foil.....

- Hit a few bumps and the a-frame and blade assembly have some slop for sure!

Anyhow, we are ready for the first measurable snowfall this Tuesday!

 

[DieselSlug]

Well first 2 actual plows are in the books. Only issue to note is voltage. When working the plow a lot there is voltage drop and the dash pegs to near 15V (ScanGauge says 15.3). We definitely need a battery upgrade, and dual battery install. I am putting a trickle charger on it for now to help get me by. The alternator is a 160 amp unit, so capable, just not enough reserve.

 

[DieselSlug]

Still going! Only update is fixed the dim low beam issues. Helps to get the polarity right on the Fisher to truck harness! No real big snow events as of this season, just nuisance events for CNY.

 

[Husker6.5]

Yeah polarity could be an issue, especially when dealing with LED or HID 21VDC lighting systems. Most HID system transformers won't even fire up if reversed.

 

[Husker6.5]

That should be 12VDC, not 21VDC. Stupid smartphone keyboards and arthritic thumbs!

 

[jrsavoie]

Still going! Only update is fixed the dim low beam issues. Helps to get the polarity right on the Fisher to truck harness! No real big snow events as of this season, just nuisance events for CNY. - Crosby Nash and Young ?
View attachment 85893

 

[DieselSlug]

Haha, I think technically they went by CSN, and later CSNY.

CNY is the slang we use for Central New York.

Ohio was a great song from them. It does far outweigh my age, but I do like my fare share of classics!

 

[Husker6.5]

As opposed to the New York Central, which was a railroad before it merged with the Pennsylvania Railroad and became the Penn Central.

 

[DieselSlug]

Well, took some time today since it wasnt raining to inquire about my passenger floorboard water leak.

Pulled the cowl, looks like this may be the culprit. Hopefully we see some improvement. I do have a few more spots I need to inspect, but will wait for a more appealing caulk option. White was all I had in the basement.

 

[DieselSlug]

Went to the junkyard the other day and grabbed some parts:

• Drivers door handle spring, and arm. I believe me spring is broken or the plastic handle itself is broken. The handle flaps in the breeze going down the highway.
• PS cooler. Mine is rotted badly and leaking more than a seep. Luckily found one in excellent shape, good cost savings there.
• Secondary battery tray.
• Handful of random fuses and relays for backup.

I did notice that my coolant temp sensor plastic plug is cracked. We have another Delphi to go in there when this crazy weather breaks.

 

[MrMarty51]

When I have broken weather pack terminal connectors, I use the appropriate tool, release the terminal from the busted weather pack, remove the pig tail from the good WP and shove the original terminal into the new weather pack.
I dont like clipping wires and splicing in pigtails.

 

[DieselSlug]

When I have broken weather pack terminal connectors, I use the appropriate tool, release the terminal from the busted weather pack, remove the pig tail from the good WP and shove the original terminal into the new weather pack.
I dont like clipping wires and splicing in pigtails.

Agreed, I would not have done it this way. I did get another pigtail from a truck at the JY for just in case. If there are any visual issues found I will use some nice solder sticks to get the replacement back on.

 

[MrMarty51]

Agreed, I would not have done it this way. I did get another pigtail from a truck at the JY for just in case. If there are any visual issues found I will use some nice solder sticks to get the replacement back on.

I did find that the NAPA store and Oriellys here has many of those latching connectors in stock.
I was able to get the connector for the TPS from NAPA and another one from Oriellys on their next day parts order from Billings.
Released the wire/terminals and plugged in the original terminals.
Just makes it nice and clean.