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My 2005 Yukon XL

Will L. said:
Are you 100% that is a real delco unit? It’s possible they changed how they are making it but also possible you got a cko.
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The new part has denso etched as well as the GM part number as the one I pulled out, so I am assuming. But in this day you never know, those CKO companies play every game they can to con you. The ad was for a genuine unit.
 
Going back to my revamped set of OEM cab lights/harness sitting on the shelf thinking about tackling that project some weekend while at camp. Since my truck did not come with cab lights OEM I am contemplating on a proper attachment method. IIRC OEM had sheet steel screws into threaded U-clips. I am not looking to put large holes in the roof like that, but I am thinking about doing it riv-nut style M6 or M8 in size.

Anyone had experience doing such? I do want to do a quality install, and do plan on using some type of sealer as supplement to mitigate water intrusion.
 
DieselSlug said:
Going back to my revamped set of OEM cab lights/harness sitting on the shelf thinking about tackling that project some weekend while at camp. Since my truck did not come with cab lights OEM I am contemplating on a proper attachment method. IIRC OEM had sheet steel screws into threaded U-clips. I am not looking to put large holes in the roof like that, but I am thinking about doing it riv-nut style M6 or M8 in size.

Anyone had experience doing such? I do want to do a quality install, and do plan on using some type of sealer as supplement to mitigate water intrusion.
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I've always hated clearance lights. I've never had them all working at once for any length of time.
I'd definitely never add them.
 
jrsavoie said:
I've always hated clearance lights. I've never had them all working at once for any length of time.
I'd definitely never add them.
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I was on the fence for the longest time due to this being a SUV and not a truck, which is why they have sat so long. I've only ever owned 1 or 2 vehicles without them (including this one). I've actually never had any issues with them, even leaking water from the factory, maybe lucky?

I saw a 2500 Yukon the other day with denali conversion (similar to mine) and it looked clean with the lights. They may have even been tinted a bit and I think that would match my headlights/parking lights well. We will see.
 
I've wanted to install a set on my truck but didn't want to put holes in the cab roof. I had thought about some sort of bracketry that would attach at the drip rails of the cab and be elevated ever so slightly over the roof. using a center support rubber foot if needed but nothing to go into the roof.
 
They actually have light bars with integrated ambers for a simulated cab light look. Issue is, I think light bars are the dumbest looking things on the planet! Plus several vehicles I've been in with them have annoying whistle noises due to wind resistance. I'm more of a round/square pod fan for aux lighting.

I do plan on aux LED lighting down the road to help with plowing at night, but will only be installing some lower A-pillar pod mounts.
 
DieselSlug said:
They actually have light bars with integrated ambers for a simulated cab light look. Issue is, I think light bars are the dumbest looking things on the planet! Plus several vehicles I've been in with them have annoying whistle noises due to wind resistance. I'm more of a round/square pod fan for aux lighting.

I do plan on aux LED lighting down the road to help with plowing at night, but will only be installing some lower A-pillar pod mounts.
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We really liked the light bars when we wanted extra lights.

Never paid attention to any added noise. Those vehicles were loud anyway.

Never plowed, but I can see where you'd want the lights down by the plow and not up on a bar.
 
The guy we bought the fj cruiser from said be careful messing with the one he added because it took him 3 tries to eliminate the noise.

I always preferred look of several round lights. I wouldn’t have considered them except this rig came with it. Thing is awesome for light output. Now there is so many I got used to them.

I think now it is case by case basis. Some look really dumb, some it blends in with the style of the rig.
 
Yukon has been going strong. Got a CEL about 2 weeks ago for Bank 1, Sensor 2. Looks like another O2 needs replacing. We are also heading to FL in late December, so the next round of parts cannon is happening.

I have a cold tick on the drivers side, both rear port bolts have the heads snapped off. One has been gone since I bought it. Today we un-bolted the downpipe, and 6-remaining manifold bolts. I need to play the lotto, none of them broke.

I plan to order a new exhaust manifold, what are the chances of reusing one? Ive never done this before. I will also order new MLS gaskets, bolts and studs.
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I also did some inspecting, I've got brake lines I am really not comfortable with. Where are you guys getting your present, coated lines?
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reusing the manifold shouldn't be an issue. if the studs are broken at the doughnut, grind them flat with the manifold, center punch them and drill out starting out small and work up till you just see the threads. Then you should be able to use a tap and chase the threads out. go back with stainless hardware and use some high temp anti-seize. iirc the nickle anti-seize is good for up to 2200 deg.

on the brake lines, yeah those look a little on the crusty side! I would try your best to save on the line nuts, most likely they are metric thread. get you a roll of Ni-copper or whatever they call it now brake line that easily bends and wont rust and a flaring tool. on the line nuts, you might have to break off the lines so you can sue a 6 point socket and save them. if the steel line is rusted solid in them, use a drill bit the same size of the line to get them out so you can reuse them. drop all the line nuts in some acid or vinegar to desolve the rust. phosphoric acid will eat the rust in no time.

bleed the system as best you can with a helper, then you'll need to connect to the ECM to get air from the ABS pumps. That might mean a trip to the dealer or a shop that has the power bleeder equipment.
 
I have reused and resealed mine on 07 5.3 multiple times the bolts just don't seem to want to stay tight. I did have to replace the PS Mani original was cracked. I have a large belt from belt sander I lay on shop take and slide to manifold surface on to true it best I can seems to work fine.
 
DieselSlug said:
We succeeded in removing the 2 broken studs. Vice grips and a quarter turn at a time. The manifold itself is solid, heavy rust scale. The heat shield is wasted......
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I have one of them HF 40 pound pressure feed sanding blaster.
The exhaust manifolds on my 6.5 cleaned up nicely.
Then took them to a big bead blast cabinet and knocked the rust off the flange that bolts to the exhaust ports.
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Manifold, gaskets, and O2 came. Love it when the manufacturer skimps out on packing materials to save $3.

The manifold went for a ride loosely creating swiss cheese holes in the box and roasted the downpipe crush ring gasket. Will have to find a new one locally, then fight with Dorman on a replacement that will most likely go in the basement and collect dust for years to come.
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