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GMTD scan tech

Awesome, it's alive!! it's hard to tell in the #3 video but hearing the exhaust at the tail pipe almost sounds like it's lopping or one injector is misfiring. it might be just my ears though.
 
Try cracking each injector line fitting at the injectors, one at a time then tighten it back down. Make sure that each one comes loose enough to leak fuel. Keep Your hands, fingers and skin clear and away from any spray. That stuff will puncture quicker than a dart ir an arrow and then very bad things happens to and under the skin.
As each injector line is cracked loose and allowed to bleed some, it is the equivelant to pulling plug wires on a gasoline engine.
That cylinder will misfire until the line nut is tightened back down. When You crack a line loose and there is no change in the way the engine idles then that is a dead cylinder and the injector needs to be tested.
If You crack loose a line nut and there is no fuel leaking from the top of the line nut then take Your wrench and gently tap the fuel line tube right close to the nut until the seal breaks and fuel emits from the top of the nut. About a turn I think should be loose enough.
Others can chime in and correct any of my errors. 🫣😹👍
 
I listened to it again on my pc. the engine sounds healthy and strong. I don't think it's missing. looking at the engine running on the #2 startup it's not shaking. #3 has some smoke haze coming out the tail pipe which is just residual fuel and or moisture burning off as it is warming up. all looks normal.

what I heard as loping could be just timing. now that it's running. button everything up so the cooling system is good and you can leave it run up to full operating temp. you will need to set timing on the new motor. you will need a tech 2 scanner or the GMTDscan paid version on the laptop for the DS4 electronics to set timing correctly.

Once you get to that point and are ready, we can help you set it correctly.
 
Hi all, the video uploads did work thanks. Yes my plan is to top all the fluids bring it up to temp. and set timing. I do have a CKO Tech 2 (see post #74) after the start up sessions I hooked it up no current dtc,s but the history had 91 through 98 cylinder balance. I’m assuming it’s a timing issue. I don’t think I mentioned I did crack all of the injector lines at the injectors and got drips at all but the one behind the down pipe. I do have an exhaust hose coming so I can work in the garage without suffocating lol😂 I still have it up on stands. Thanks every body .IMG_0924.jpeg
 
Good catch @92Z24 He's right @Goose57 look at the rubber hoses on the injectors, the last one on each head at teh firewall. there should be a hose coming from the first injectors each side up front that connect to a tiny steel line which also ties into the IP return and runs under the valley and out going back to the tank.
 
Yea guys , I tore up that front steel line when pulling the original motor. I am still using the steel line that goes in the valley but I moved the the tie in return lines to the back using a brass fitting where the rubber plugs were on the original motor. Thanks for keeping me honest😎. Oh that oil pump drive w/the small shaft sticking out is not the one I’m using. I used that one to prime the motor.IMG_0923.jpegIMG_0251.jpeg
 
I did the TDC learn today. Warmed it up a little stuck the coolant fooler on checked temp. on scanner 177 deg. At first TDC offset was at -0.35 checked it again and it was -2.02. Moved the IP 1 mm to the passenger side and then it was 0.00 but it seemed to run worse “missing”. I did go to the time set page a checked the TDC offset there and it was also 0.00. I pulled cylinder balance DTC,s and TDC calibration. It seemed to run better at TDC offset at -2.02 I think I have some injectors not working properly. I did screw around w/ the cylinder balance test on the Tech2 some cylinders reacted different than others I couldn’t keep a steady idle. Michael from Quadstar sent me a DS Pump/ Timing procedure I’m trying to figure out how to post it on here.
I probably didn’t do it right. What do you guys think?



IMG_0961.jpegIMG_0962.jpegIMG_0958.jpegIMG_0952.jpeg
 
when you run the timing set before you click the learn button make sure the actual IP timing is as close as possible to 3.5 degrees. when you enter timing set and see you need to bump the IP to get it closer to 3.5 you can at that point shut off the engine and move the IP and try again. this is a go back n fourth "drive you nuts" thing until you are able to enter the learn portion of the scanner.
 
This is the timing procedure Quadstar sent me. When I started the LP index mark was lined up w/the mark on the timing cover. Then I moved the LP 1 mm to passenger side to go from -2.02 to 0.00. Boy the LP didn’t move easy like a gasser distributor. I must be doing something wrong. In the 95’ manual ( Technical Library) there is a detailed timing procedure using a Tech1 scanner. Can I use that detailed timing procedure using my Tech 2?
IMG_0272.jpegIMG_0273.jpegIMG_0274.jpeg
 
This is the timing procedure Quadstar sent me. When I started the LP index mark was lined up w/the mark on the timing cover. Then I moved the LP 1 mm to passenger side to go from -2.02 to 0.00. Boy the LP didn’t move easy like a gasser distributor. I must be doing something wrong. In the 95’ manual ( Technical Library) there is a detailed timing procedure using a Tech1 scanner. Can I use that detailed timing procedure using my Tech 2?
View attachment 90018View attachment 90019View attachment 90020View attachment 90018View attachment 90019View attachment 90020
 
dbrannon79 said:
when you run the timing set before you click the learn button make sure the actual IP timing is as close as possible to 3.5 degrees. when you enter timing set and see you need to bump the IP to get it closer to 3.5 you can at that point shut off the engine and move the IP and try again. this is a go back n fourth "drive you nuts" thing until you are able to enter the learn portion of the scanner.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I have to two steps. Actual timing first on the engine data screen and then go back to the learn portion. Do I have to do anything or does it learn on its own? Is the LP always that hard to move? Thanks
 
Once you get done with the first step then there should be a learn function on the tech 2. using the actual timing and getting it to 3.5 is something I learned on my own with the help of others here. it gets you in the ball park and ready for the learn procedure.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Once you get done with the first step then there should be a learn function on the tech 2. using the actual timing and getting it to 3.5 is something I learned on my own with the help of others here. it gets you in the ball park and ready for the learn procedure.
Click to expand...
I’m assuming in the learning procedure there are steps to follow? Thanks so much.
 
Paveltolz said:
Maybe this will help? From the 96 manual but, ODB1 procedures folks are explaining look to be tge same View attachment 90025View attachment 90026
Click to expand...

Paveltolz said:
Maybe this will help? From the 96 manual but, ODB1 procedures folks are explaining look to be tge same View attachment 90025View attachment 90026
Click to expand...
I was just looking in the 95’ manual. I did see something like this in there but only using a Tech1. Was not sure about using it. Thanks very much.
 
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