• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

GMTD scan tech

I forgot to add that the reason for why we say spend the extra for the powermaster is for it's reliability and torque. this little starter will spin that engine over at twice the speed and use less amp draw on the batteries. on my truck it's just a touch of the key and it's spinning and fires off in almost an instant. you will be amazed once you go to crank on it. this is one of those buy once and cry once kinda deals. yes it's cost is up around $250-$300 but it's money well spent for any older vehicle.
 
dbrannon79 said:
What starter are you looking at? the text file you posted contains a link to ebay which I would not trust to buy a starter. for that price and saying delco I would not trust. there are so many Chineese copies that look and feel like real delco products. if going GM or AC Delco, only get from their authorized retailers. amazon and ebay are not one of them.

if looking at the powermaster. yes the starter looks very different from the original one for both size and shape. the solenoid ends up on the bottom side where the OEM solenoid is up on top. these are gear reduction starters that are very similar to a what a dodge cummins engine uses but with a nose cone designed to fit on the 6.5 and 6.2 diesels.

Here is a couple of photos of my starter mounted up on the engine on the stand for reference.

View attachment 89871
View attachment 89870
Click to expand...
Yes I had trouble copying images from eBay to these post. I do not think I know how. Can you or do you still need the heat shield?
 
if you still have your heat shield, use it. my heat shield was removed long ago by previous owners so I ended up wrapping the down pipe as well as getting a wrap for the starter. the wrap for the starter is open at the end allowing air into it when moving to help keep the starter cool but for me, I learned quickly that these foil infused fiberglass wraps for starters are conductive! I had to put a rubber boot on the battery lug on the starter to not have the wrap arch out on the starter connections!

the heat shield up on the valve cover under the turbo and injectors was also non-existant. when I replaced my injectors I used a tall boy beer can to make a shield there LOL so if you ever see my engine, look closely and you'll find a beer can behind the turbo. HAHA. it works and serves the purpose!
 
Here is where Im at. A fine mist out of all GP holes when cranking. GP,s back in crank no start not even a pop. no DTC,s no bubbles in clear IP return line GP,s working. PDM is the one I had on the truck when it was running. Ohm test PDM harness. Cracked 3 injector lines while cranking just drips. What is the fuel psi at the injectors? Shouldn’t there more fuel pressure there to pop the injector’s?
 
How well is the engine cranking? if it's cranking too slow this can make for hard starts. are you seeing any puffs of smoke out the tail pipe? if so but just not wanting to fire off, it can be just cranking too slow. make sure your batteries are well charged. are you running the OE style starter or did you get a powermaster? maybe connect the big charger set to full bore or a set of jumper cables on the drinkers side battery when cranking just to get a little more speed out of cranking. I think your right there on the edge of it firing off and running.

the injectors should see around 1950 psi and if you are seeing mist out the GP holes when cranking, you have the pressure.
 
dbrannon79 said:
How well is the engine cranking? if it's cranking too slow this can make for hard starts. are you seeing any puffs of smoke out the tail pipe? if so but just not wanting to fire off, it can be just cranking too slow. make sure your batteries are well charged. are you running the OE style starter or did you get a powermaster? maybe connect the big charger set to full bore or a set of jumper cables on the drinkers side battery when cranking just to get a little more speed out of cranking. I think your right there on the edge of it firing off and running.

the injectors should see around 1950 psi and if you are seeing mist out the GP holes when cranking, you have the pressure.
Click to expand...
Thanks dbrannon I am using a battery charger. I believe it is cranking normally OE starter going w/the power master when I get I running along w/ some other upgrades. I’ll have to get a camera on the tail pipe.
Hell it was popping and hissing days ago when I was just checking the starter before I started bleeding the fuel system. I think you’re right I’m close. I was just worried about the injector lines just dripping. I thought I should see more pressure ( I am an old retired gasser mechanic). I’m so glad I don’t have to pull the new IP, yet🙏🏻
 
Goose57 said:
Thanks dbrannon I am using a battery charger. I believe it is cranking normally OE starter going w/the power master when I get I running along w/ some other upgrades. I’ll have to get a camera on the tail pipe.
Hell it was popping and hissing days ago when I was just checking the starter before I started bleeding the fuel system. I think you’re right I’m close. I was just worried about the injector lines just dripping. I thought I should see more pressure ( I am an old retired gasser mechanic). I’m so glad I don’t have to pull the new IP, yet🙏🏻
Click to expand...
Do you have the block heater plugged in?

Have you verified your glow plug system ?

Are you using AC Delco 60G glow plugs from. A reputable source?
 
That's something I forgot about, if you went with Delco 60g glow plugs, they do require a little more run time to get up to temp unlike the OEM ones. that is the only drawback to them but the good side is they won't burn out or swell if left on too long.

you can try crossing the solenoid terminals keeping them on for an extra 5-10 seconds and then crank and see what happens.

I used these in my 95 truck and in playing with how long to leave them on for on startup, I found that 8 seconds was the sweet spot for my truck. I eventually ended up re-programming my PCM so that they would stay on with the key longer rather than wiring up an override push button in the cab.
 
I wouldn’t jumper the relay. Just turn key on until “wait” light goes out. Turn key off. Immediately turn back on. Do this 3 times then crank.

You don’t need a camera about the smoke. It will look like a gasser with a severe blown head gasket- TONS of white smoke that smell like diesel fuel comes out the pipe to the point as a gasoline mechanic you will get nervous.
Remember : Diesels, white exhaust smoke is either unburned diesel fuel or coolant burning in the cylinder and the identifier is the smell - coolant or diesel smell.
Cold starts it is common and hurts nothing to have the white smoke from diesel - it just tells you you’re not preheating enough. Also diesels never run “rich” or “lean” they don’t idle if lean and rich just puts out white smoke when engine is cold or black smoke when warmed up. Lack of air flow like boost loss creates black because it is “lean on airflow”

Here is a video of a tired old engine that needs its timing adjusted. The smoke is unburned fuel and when he unplugs the coolant temp sensor the computer takes that as super cold and maxes out timing advancement enough to clear up the smoke. Not saying you should do this, just so you see the smoke we are talking about.

Definitely answer post 71
 
Hey everybody, I finally got it to start up. Why didn’t anybody tell me not to start it up in the garage lol. Runs rough white smoke. Will I used your GP cycling method seems to work. The first start up I had to step on the gas pedal to get it started. Had to stay on the pedal to keep it running after the temp. started to come up I could get it to idle. Shut it off and started it up without stepping on the pedal just to be sure it will run so I can do the timing. No currant DTC,s but in the history it has dtc 91 through 98 cylinder balance. I have a coolant fooler and a powermaster coming from Quadstar. I believe that powermaster will help on startup. I wish you guys could see it running, I do have several videos on my iphones photos but I can’t figure out how to upload them to these forums. In the tech library I see a timing procedure using the tech1 for 95’ obd1. I have a tech2 will the tech1 timing procedure work using a tech2? Quadstar did send a couple of different timing procedures. If I can get it to idle on its own should I just bring the temp. up on its own instead of using the coolant fooler? Instead of complicating
things.
jrsavoie said:
Do you have the block heater plugged in?

Have you verified your glow plug system ?

Are you using AC Delco 60G glow plugs from. A reputable source?
Click to expand...
block heater no. GP,s. amp clamp reading 95 or 100 amps I forget. I believe they are AC Delco can I tell by looking at them ? Not sure where I bought them. Thanks
 
Will L. said:
I wouldn’t jumper the relay. Just turn key on until “wait” light goes out. Turn key off. Immediately turn back on. Do this 3 times then crank.

You don’t need a camera about the smoke. It will look like a gasser with a severe blown head gasket- TONS of white smoke that smell like diesel fuel comes out the pipe to the point as a gasoline mechanic you will get nervous.
Remember : Diesels, white exhaust smoke is either unburned diesel fuel or coolant burning in the cylinder and the identifier is the smell - coolant or diesel smell.
Cold starts it is common and hurts nothing to have the white smoke from diesel - it just tells you you’re not preheating enough. Also diesels never run “rich” or “lean” they don’t idle if lean and rich just puts out white smoke when engine is cold or black smoke when warmed up. Lack of air flow like boost loss creates black because it is “lean on airflow”

Here is a video of a tired old engine that needs its timing adjusted. The smoke is unburned fuel and when he unplugs the coolant temp sensor the computer takes that as super cold and maxes out timing advancement enough to clear up the smoke. Not saying you should do this, just so you see the smoke we are talking about.

Definitely answer post 71
Click to expand...
Wow that really cleaned things up. Thanks.
 
Once you make a youtube account. you can click the + on the phone app and choose upload video. choose from your photo album and fill in all the details. once it's uploaded you can then copy the link from your account and just paste it in a forum post. it will show up as a playable video once posted.

iirc youtube studio is part of your account once you sign up. it's a place to edit and publish videos for the youtube site

If I can remember tonight when I get off work, I will post a thread for instructions on how to post with screenshots. I think that can be helpful for others.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top