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Gotcha, we just seal those passages up, GM had an issue and removed it on later heads.

Why did you have issues with 6.5 head gaskets? Its all we use, they are built better than the 6.2 gasket. I put 22 psi thru mine for a year, others also have also run more boost than me, no issues. Not sure I'd use the copper line, it will work harden and break, better to use pushlok hose or...

LOL, you would have loved my green 1975 B250 van, I put a raised roof on it, warmed over a 360 with headers, Edelbrock intake, 4 barrel, ram air, Aurora coil, RV cam, dual exhaust with 2 chamber flowmasters and real ported X heads. Dynoed at over 400 ft/lbs at the back wheels, swapped in an A518...

Yeah, .040" over and 10" under crank but for what I am doing, that's fine. Also have brand new GEP van heads and will make a custom crossover, also going serpentine belt, bought a 99 Savanah for parts.

You need to modify the HVAC case if you use the GM manifolds as the turbo hits the case, you need to either cut it out and re fiberglass or use the S10 cases. I'd go Holset HX35/40 over the GM turbo anyday.

Got a little deep moneywise into my build so just looking to see if anyone knows or has one lying around they don't need. TIA.

I saw that but why pay $300 for a rubber one when for another $100 or so, you can have an FD. :cool:

$1000 for a complete kit isn't a bad deal. By the time you piece a 6.5 kit or make your own using a banks manifold. Also, if you have a/c, you can't use the 6.5 setup without a/c case modifications. If no a/c, then you could use the 6.5 setup and do it for less than $1000.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PPI0/PB1490DP/02316.oap?year=1995&make=Chevrolet&model=K2500%2BPickup%2B4WD&vi=1052659&ck=Search_02316_1052659_3736&pt=02316&ppt=C0332# Damn, $310 for a rubber balancer, fawkin nuts, :eek:

Great build thread, I am too building a GEP. Interesting to see how the Precups work out.

Hmmmm, maybe running gapless rings, I can eliminate the bypasss filter setup?

EGT and BOOST guages FIRST, then exhaust from DE, Heath tune, HX35 with a 60mm compressor wheel, fuel mods. I repeat do NOT try to run more boost etc without gauges otherwise start shopping for a new engine.

Ok, so after redoing and it adding the Dmax prefilter, idle pressure went up to 5.5 psi and WOT is up to 4.5 psi. But its still too noisey for my liking, :(

My GEP build is getting these, Total Seal will convert your new rings for around a $90, you send them the 2nd ring set. Should really help keep the bad stuff from the WMO out of my crankcase.

Waste Motor Oil, shuts down the diesel rattle big time but you can't run it with the electronic IP.

Get a Fluid Damper, they cut engine rattle down considerably. Next is run WMO, lol. I know you can't but I just had to say it, :p

I use red anerobic for frost plugs, threaded plugs get liquid permatex thread sealer.

Nope, its not an airtight seal, so the fan will have no problem pulling air and its winter, unless your towing, how much does the fan actually come on? I have electric fans and they have no problem cooling it down if it gets hot.

Love my winter front, it goes on from November to March. I get faster warm ups, runs hotter than without it. I have 2 flaps I can open or close but I do take it off when towing. There are no negatives to running one if you use your brain, :p

Dual will be custom, no point unless you like the look. Diamond Eye is the best bang for the buck, great system, sounds awesome.