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Little Bit of Everything

SethRoush97_6_5

SethRoush97_6_5

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Location
Chesterville, Ohio
Hey guys, I have a 97 2500 obviously with the 6.5. Have a few performance questions as I'm not super new to the diesel world, I just dont know a ton about the 6.5s. PMD has been relocated, has a manual wastegate, studded, straight piped, harmonic balancer and pulley,35-40 over injectors and thats about it.

Performance wise, I want to put an HX35 turbo or the best turbo option, bigger fuel lines, bigger lift pump and injection pump. Also I want to chip it and either throw a tranny kit in it or just get mine beefed up a bit. This is where the questions come.

It'll obviously throw a code around 17-18 psi, is there anything I can do to not let it throw that code? I'd like it to make a little more boost, but dont want to blow gaskets obviously. A buddy of mine has a 95 with an hx35 and somehow managed to find a 6 position chip for it and he can get it to make more than 18 psi without throwing codes. I've heard theres a resistor i can wire into the boost sensor to get rid of the codes, but my buddy said when he chipped his it also got rid of the codes. So just confused as to which works better.

Best options for turbo, place to get a chip, and just all the other things i have previously listed?
 
I guess it's not really correct to think of injectors on a 6.5L that way. More rated by potential horsepower but you really never get that, if anything at all with the 40HP injectors. More a gimmick. There is "somebuddy" that sells a 6 position chip but you would be better going to Heath (as much as I hate sending anybody there) and having a custom one made. Some people here make their own and for others. A "single position" as opposed to a 6 position on a 6.5L doesnt give any advantage because at a max effort tune, there isn't that great of gains opposed to stock setting anyways. And the 6 position is only applicable to OBD1, so that's out of the question on your truck. There isn't a bigger injection pump you can get. Your stuck with the DS4. And ignore the resistor and optical bump. No real gains and risky. Get a 3inch downpipe to 4 inch exhaust from Diamond Eye. Get a bigger lift pump (walbro FRC10 from leroy diesel). Bigger fuel lines in the from of FTB mod (I think leroy may carry it as well, idk). And a HX35 would work great. People preach the HX40 but I think it's too big, slow spooling, and laggy. But my truck seems to be an oddball. PT Wiring makes a great install kit for the HX35. I'd go that route. I think a larger bar map will eliminate high boost but not sure. I run mechanical. And not sure on the tranny, I run a 5 speed
 
And really, I would only increase boost if you aren't cleaning the fuel up. Once your clean, leave it. Don't need high boost.
 
Not entirely correct on the pump...
Heath has a biggerish pump. Good luck getting just the pump though. If money is no issue. I would look into some of his complete kits. But if you are like the rest of us penny pinchers you will end up putting a bunch of different little things to make a reasonable gain.
And X2 on the beautiful truck
 
Yeah^^^ Let's be realistic though, who is ready to fork out enough money to buy a pickup for the sake of an injection pump. And most of Heaths products are overpriced and his "kits" can be had part by part for less usually if you know how to shop without sacrificing quality.
 
Focus on durability. The motor is good at making modest power and if trying to make it a 'coal roller', it will come up short and only lead to disapointment.

By the way: WELCOME TO TTS!!!

Spend some time in the Technical Library (http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-diesel-technical-library.589/) and decide how to prioritize upgrades.

Consider keeping a set of 'while I am repairing XYZ' upgrade projects at the ready so that you already have the research complete and it is just a matter of gathering parts when the opportunity arises. Example: a simple replacement of the glow plugs should also include the controller and upgrade of the wires.

If oil analysis is not part of the normal game plan, recommend doing it just ahead of each oil change to determine whether you are just changing the oil & filter, or need other repairs.
 
Tuner can take care of the boost limitations.
Concur with FTB & upgraded LP. Walbro, Racor etc.
you may want to phase your upgrade plans. I did, costs a bit more but worth it not busting the budget or running debt. It costs what it costs and almost all of us have much more in these things than a replacement truck.
With Bill you can run the tune and if you upgrade an IP, Cam or whatever, within "X" amount of time, he'll work with you on any costs for an update. Same deal if your tune needs a little tweek.
 
Paveltolz said:
Tuner can take care of the boost limitations.
Concur with FTB & upgraded LP. Walbro, Racor etc.
you may want to phase your upgrade plans. I did, costs a bit more but worth it not busting the budget or running debt. It costs what it costs and almost all of us have much more in these things than a replacement truck.
With Bill you can run the tune and if you upgrade an IP, Cam or whatever, within "X" amount of time, he'll work with you on any costs for an update. Same deal if your tune needs a little tweek.
Click to expand...

Who is said Bill with the tune? Is he apart of heath diesel or somewhere else? The only place I have found any tuners is there and I think maybe XDP I found one.
 
Yes, "Bill" = Heath Diesel. If one calls and gets Joe or John on the line they can discuss things only so far before Bill has to take over. He does the tunes and will discuss your set up, build up plans, intended uses and druthers quite extensively to ensure you get what you want.
 
SethRoush97_6_5 said:
Whats the difference between the att turbo and any other turbo?
Click to expand...
Basically the ATT has been developed into a one stop shoping kit. Comes with everything you need to do install and we have tunes for OBDI in house (Soon to have OBDII in houseI hope) specifically developed for use with the ATT.
At $801 for the kit it becomes a no brainer IMO. Most report 2-3MPG ^^ that right there pays for the kit it a short time.
The ATT can put same HP/Tq #s to the ground as other turbos but with less boost. That saves your bottom end from unneeded stress.
The list gos on, do your research and let me know when you want to buy.
 
SethRoush97_6_5 said:
Whats the difference between the att turbo and any other turbo?
Click to expand...

As Leroy mentioned, do the homework as some love the ATT, some not.

GM's turbo (GM-X series) are not favorites on this forum, so will not touch on them. Last I talked with Bill Heath (~2 years ago) he loved the OE turbo and continued to recommend keeping it.

The HX turbos appear to build boost in lower RPM's which tends to suit the daily drivers as it gives a get-up-and-go feel coming out of a red light. Down sides to the HX are they are reliant on a wastegate, build higher pressure, and quality control in manufacturing is not always consistent (especially for the Chinese Knock-Off's (aka: CKO)).

The ATT comes to life around 2,000 RPM, appears to result in the same amount of power at a lower PSI than other turbos, and is less complex (it does not have a wastegate), and allows for removal of the vacuum pump. There is a kit to make the ATT create boost at low RPM's, but it nearly doubles the overall cost of the setup. ATT is nice for towing and cruising. Down side to the ATT is the (already noted) lag where it tends to want 2,000 RPM for really boosting pressure; but this is correctable if you want to spend the money.

Do the homework as it really is a matter of personal preference. Also, any replacement of the turbo needs a tune to best take advantage of the modification.
 
JayTheCPA said:
GM's turbo (GM-X series) are not favorites on this forum, so will not touch on them.
Click to expand...

True dat. Main reason I don't talk about them. I often find it sunny that you can't talk about the ATT on other forums and that was part of the genesis of this forum. However, start talking about a GMx turbo here and you're likely to get torpedoed from all sides.....just a funny little observation.

;)

JayTheCPA said:
Last I talked with Bill Heath (~2 years ago) he loved the OE turbo and continued to recommend keeping it.
Click to expand...

He's not the only one that still likes them. They just need to be understood and supported properly in the drivetrain as a whole. One has to understand, accept and learn to work with the limitations inherent in the 1980's tech GM IDI designs.

However, technology has steadily marched forward and the ol' GMx's are truely outclassed by new offerings. Even Bill is sellibg what looks like a garret (or a clone), although im not so sure that isnt about market demand as much as anything else. Cant bkame a guy for trying to make a living. The only problem is the "genuine" newer stuff does not go cheap. I'm not referring to "boat" turbos or take-offs.....personally, I'd have a BW EFR if I had a fat bankroll.....

:)

I'm half considering an ATT setup just to see what I can get out of it. I've got a bit of extra cash lying about and its burning a hole in my pocket the longer it sits there.

Problem is I'm just tired of pouring money into the old beast. I'm back and forth on putting money into the truck or just dropping it on the pile I've got squirreled away for my new milling machine.


Mmmmmmmm.....

homer_simpson_drooling_by_dondrug-d6h081a.jpg


milling machine.......
 
Last edited:
EGT and BOOST guages FIRST, then exhaust from DE, Heath tune, HX35 with a 60mm compressor wheel, fuel mods.

I repeat do NOT try to run more boost etc without gauges otherwise start shopping for a new engine.
 
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