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All you need is the BMK27 kit. If you are going to mount it on the frame you can buy the bracket I have for that or make your owe. We use the Duramax bypass kit because it uses bigger lines. Greg

Cooler is the same size as the stock cooler. Sorry we don't seel just lines. Greg

Taking the inner fender liner out is a lot of work for nothing. I can't begin to guess how many times I've taken the turbo out very easily and I know in less time than it it took to take out the liner. Greg

How can it boil out at 220*? NPG+ boils at 370*. I think you need to further investigate what really happened. After all regular anti freeze will not boil out at 220*. Just and observation. Greg

You can install our kit in front of the rad like the late models. All you need to do make a simple bracket. However I still suggest you use the rad cooler as well. Greg

Reason is you can blow a shaft seal. If that happens you can get a crankcase full of fuel and other things. However a Walbro won't make enough pressure for that to happen. Greg

Due to popular demand we are now stocking the adapter that screws into the OEM filter head of your Dmax so you can install a fuel pressure gauge. You can Order it here for immediate shipping. Greg

In stock and ready to ship today. http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/shop.aspx?catid=10&parentid=0&productid=74 Greg

I've had 3 long blocks and I can say you get what you pay for. Also John was only a few hundred more than others that think their motor is so good. Greg

I had a custom 15qt pan on my 6.5TD with a temp sensor in it. I can tell you that it runs around 175-200* under hiway driving no load. However you get a load on it and it can go to 275* plus in a big hurry. I had and IC and cold ait intake with a moderate tune and stock injectors. I think the IC...

Kennedy Diesel. I have used his and they use the new style blocks. Just about everything was new in it. Greg

Evan's has never said anything about running it at 280* in anything I've gotten from them. It will run 240* all day without issue. Greg

Do the heater core, rad and engine all separately. Use low pressure air on both the rad and heater core to blow out any excess water. You can use high pressure air on the motor. Greg

Your not going to crack the block doing this. By leaving the cap off or loose the water will vaporize and the Evans will takes its place. The big thing with Evans is it will stay in contact with the metal at all times because it does not vaporize (boil) till 370* at atmospheric pressure. By the...

First off the links don't work and second just look at this line "We are issuing this AD to require actions to correct the unsafe condition on these products." Since when does the FAA put out ads to take care of safety issues? Evan says the claims are not true and I talked with them today about...

flammable 1. capable of being easily ignited and of burning quickly com·bus·ti·ble 1. capable of combustion From Webster itself. Of course it all depends on what you think the meaning of "is" really is by Bill Clinton. Greg

Being band by FAA is totally wrong. Not sure where you got information but all you need to do is call Evans Cooling at 888-990-2665. Also Evans is NOT flammable. Combustible yes under certain conditions. Also Rotax has recommended its use for a long time and that has not changed. Please let me...

No safety devise that I'm aware of other than a roll over valve in the tank. If a low pressure line breaks it will keep flowing until the key is shut off. If a passenger side injector return line breaks which I have seen many it will make a real big mess and the turbo is next to it. I know I...

How about all the fuel fuel in the lines and filter that could rupture and spray fuel all over. Fuel has a 160* flash point. Why isn't anyone worried about that? But then again to each his own. I think I have a greater chance of getting struck by lightning. Greg

I think you are over reacting a little bit? Greg