What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[Paveltolz]

You could try studs and nuts. Can’t remember the length and size (M6?) since they have worked well on mine for the past 11 years. Just had to insert the studs at the front after you’ve laid the pan down as the angle makes laying the pan on evenly a non-starter otherwise. Could always use the bolts ton the front though. Would ensure you don’t have interference with the HB…pretty tight clearances. Just a thought.

 

[MrMarty51]

Well this afternoon I spent time digging though all my garage, storage shed and other various places looking for the oil pan bolts! I didn't put them all back when I set the pan back on the block and now somehow have misplaced 12 of the bolts! I did manage to find 6 others the right length and thread pattern. This will get me enough to fill it with oil and prime everything. it might seep some oil but it'll be good enough to run on the stand.

I can't believe I misplaced those bolts! I have the 6 I found plus about 4-5 that are holding the pan on. even if I have enough to hit every other hole that will work till I make a trip to the hardware store. if all works out the engine will get a full gasket refresh anyway.

That clearance between the HB and the nose og the cover/oil pan is barely visible.
Any gasket goop material that squishes out of the gap will rub on the HB.
I installed the Fluid Dampener onto the new engine and thats a mighty close fit.

 

[Paveltolz]

That clearance between the HB and the nose og the cover/oil pan is barely visible.
Any gasket goop material that squishes out of the gap will rub on the HB.
I installed the Fluid Dampener onto the new engine and thats a mighty close fit.

Yeah, pan is close to the HB but, the bolts go in different from what I recalled in my morning fog. Was about to post that. While trying to find a picture of the studs I did discover why a shouldn’t post so soon after waking up having finally slept in past 3:30… I ‘remembered wrong’ the angles of the oil pan’s front bolts (and that I’d used bolt up there vs. studs).

Anyway, here ya go.

 

[dbrannon79]

I was thinking about finding some studs and nuts for it. I think I have some slightly longer bolts I can use in the front going into the timing cover then fill as many holes in the block with the others I have. even if I am missing a few, I think it will be find to do a test fire on for now.

as for the oil line to the turbo, I think temporarily I will snip off the hose from the fittings since the hose is blown and clamp some rubber hose to it that will hold the pressure. again it's all temporary just to see how this engine is. if I can mock up the rubber hose and fittings like I want, I can then take it in and have one made at the local napa that I can use long term.

 

[dbrannon79]

Well got all the bolts in that I had in my collection and only missing 4. I think that will be ok to fill and test. started messing with the oil feed line for the turbo. cut the hose off from the fittings by splitting the collars where it was crimped, installed the fitting that was on the block near the drivers manifold. I quickly realized why they had a union extension in the block on that port. the boss sticking out prevents you from getting a wrench on the fitting at the block. put the union extension on and cinched up the brass fittings, then fitted the hose ends on the block and on the turbo where I thought they would work best. I might pick up a 45 or 90 to put there, but I am thinking that with this extended out behind the manifold, it might make it easier to access when in the truck if I need to remove.

Looking at the hose fittings, I am curious if I would be able to get a compression fitting on there and it seal then run copper tubing along the block, across the valve cover or under the intake and over to the turbo eliminating the need for a flexible hose. if not, depending on what size this fitting is, I have a flare tool, maybe I can cut off the flare nuts and just make a complete line from copper tubing.

Here are some photos.

 

[dbrannon79]

Well I have news... I ended up just clamping some fuel line on the fittings for the oil feed for the moment. I don't want to spend money on it yet till I know it will run and has potential.

connected and wired up a battery on the starter and cranked on it for a bit. it finally started building oil pressure. got up to 40 psi while cranking YAY!! I still have the old oil filter on it from when I got it and noticed it has a slight leak, a pin hole on the side. I have oil filters so I can fix that, I just didn't want to use one from my stash if I didn't have to. even used some old motor oil I had drained from my 95 truck just to try it. I do clean my drain pans when I change oil. Plus the pan will be coming back off getting new gaskets and I can clean anything out of the bottom end then.

Yeah I know I am gonna get bashed for that part, but I simply don't want to seemingly spend money or waste fresh oil on it if the engine is fubar.

it will get fresh oil and a filter once I know it's worthy.

Next I need to cobble up a fuel system and install the GP's once I know the IP will push fuel. then it will be fun time.... I already have my board ready to choke it just in case.

I'm leaving the turbo and intake installed so I can easily just cover the turbo inlet in the event it tries to run away. I figured that would be the easiest and best. Not sure how loud it will be since there is no down pipe or crossover pipe on the engine. I do recall starting my 95 up with the turbo removed and to my surprise it wasn't that loud as a gasser would have been.

 

[dbrannon79]

Got the fuel supply and return plumbed up along with the inline shutoff solenoid connected. need to make a run to the store and fill a can with diesel. Then start priming the IP and see if it will push fuel to the injectors. the only thing I don't have with me is a spare LP to supply pressure to the IP yet. I think it should pull some from a jerry can, I do have a squeeze primer line plumbed in behind a fuel filter that I can use to push some fuel up to the IP. If I need I can run out to my buddy's house and grab my old LP that I cobbled up on an old generator trying to get it to run.

I have the engine secured on the stand but also have it hoisted up a tad with my A frame to help stabilize it. So it's not going anywhere.

 

[Will L.]

Whoever picks on you for saving $ on an unknown engine can chip in $ for new oil & filter! Haha. No different than starting an engine that is in a truck you just bought- ya never really know how old the oil & filter in it is.

Done the same thing before- test on stand with cherry picker as backup. Hang a 1 gallon fuel can from the hoist without LP. It’ll work for test fire. I wouldn’t wanna run it an hour without the LP, but 10-15 minutes won’t kill it.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

That clearance between the HB and the nose og the cover/oil pan is barely visible.
Any gasket goop material that squishes out of the gap will rub on the HB.
I installed the Fluid Dampener onto the new engine and thats a mighty close fit.

FYI, those front bolts on the lip of the oil pan aren't needed, the p400 doesn't use them, the holes are there but no threads, and if correct sealant is used no leaks...

 

[dbrannon79]

Well I’ve been messing with it off and on this afternoon between doing other things. It’s cranking slowly due to my makeshift cables on it but with me cycling one GP at a time I’ve gotten it to bust off twice but as soon as it busts off it dies and a plume of black smoke appears. I’ve pulled all the GP’s back out and cranked it and all 8 holes are misting a good amount of fuel.

Funny thing is when I kill power to the inline solenoid it continues to mist fuel but slowly Peter’s off enough to tell it drastically lessens the fuel pushing through the injectors but never stops misting completely. This is scaring me thinking that it might be flooding fuel with the solenoid allowing fuel through the return line and just lessening it as the solenoid blocks off the return.

Yeah I’m being chicken here about it running away!!

 

[dbrannon79]

They two times it did bust off it sounded good, no knocking. But my gut says it’s trying to start at full throttle then dies maybe a second after I left off the starter.

Maybe one of y’all can help me confirm this.

 

[dbrannon79]

I can order this from Amazon but the reviews are so so. But this is the solenoid that goes into the IP. Not sure if this will stop it from misting fuel out of the GP holes immediately or not.

Amazon.com

 

[dbrannon79]

I went ahead and ordered a new solenoid for it. I'm chicken and don't feel right going further without a definite way of shutting off the IP. engine sounded good the spit second it ran and don't want it to be my doings that grenades it sending shrapnel into the neighbors yardLOL

 

[Will L.]

Well good results so far- so that’s worth some investment now.

 

[dieselolds]

A few days ago I picked up a few front end parts from Amazon for my 96 Chevy truck with the 6.5 goodwrench.Basically it’s a idler arm,idler bracket ,pitman,all tie rods and stabilizer links.I have new Delphi ball joints and two kugel brand wheel bearings.All the front end parts have grease fittings in them which is what I definitely wanted to get.

This truck has been off the road since 2015 and it’s definitely time to get it road ready.Its a rust free truck with new park brake cables,backing plates,drums and axle seals.I stripped it down back in 2015 and started reassembling things when I had the time to do so.

I also picked up a new air bag clock spring for my 96 gmc truck.I’ve been searching up and down for a few years to get one of these but a couple days ago on eBay I picked one up for $114.

Today I took apart the front suspension on the 96 Chevy.And I have to say without these extractor sockets I would have never got those wheel bearing bolts out.They were in very bad shape.I have new dorman replacements going in when I reassemble everything.This socket set is worth its weight in gold.

 

[dbrannon79]

Started this morning with the engine on the stand re-working my makeshift battery cables using junk around the yard. had an old set of jumper cables that the clamps were toast. snipped the clamps off and made ends on them to double up on the cable size going to the starter. wired in a second battery too. Now it cranks much better.

Just fiddling around while I wait for the new fuel shutoff solenoid to arrive. might attempt to cobble up a makeshift harness for the GP's so I'm not touching a hot lead on one at a time before cranking. at least I can power them all at once LOL. Also got a trigger wire on the starter so I can stand back and touch it on the battery. While I'm at it I might try to do something with the turbo oil feed since that rubber fuel line I uses isn't gonna hold up very long. hose is rated for 50psi and I saw 40psi on crank already!

Yesterday while I was attempting to start it, I noticed another oil leak coming from the turbo oil drain pipe right at the gasket where it seals to the turbo, I need to tackle that too and see if I can seal it up and make sure the drain isn't restricted.

 

[dbrannon79]

Question, if I was to remove the 4x4 oil filter adapter off the engine, would I need to change anything or install something to be able to just screw the filter direct to the block?

 

[Will L.]

The bolt that mounts the adapter gets replaced by a threaded pipe.
If you can fit an oil filter there, fine. But the other option is to get a remote mount kit where you pick the new location for the filter.

 

[dbrannon79]

The bolt that mounts the adapter gets replaced by a threaded pipe.
If you can fit an oil filter there, fine. But the other option is to get a remote mount kit where you pick the new location for the filter.

Thanks, I was just curious since this block has the filter on it's side with that adapter. wondered if it could simply be removed and the filter would thread right on. I'm not a fan of installing a dry filter since it threads on sideways.

 

[ak diesel driver]

2wd can mount vertical