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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Installed new Rotors and Pads as the old set had developed a bit of a grinding noise on the left. It started right after I had shown my daughter how to retract the caliper piston a bit to get the assy. off when she does her brakes at a later time. Anyway, new set needed breaking in so I went out early this morning, about 4 a.m. so I didn’t upset too many hot heads on their way to work. After several iterations of gradual braking to 5mph the caliper/pad drag was about gone. Much better than before when it was constant and got worse as I sped up. Decided to go for a longer drive south of town to give things more time to sort out. UT 68 is pretty deserted road this time of day. Stopped to get a picture of the Geneva Rock and Gravel quarry at Pelican Point. On the way south, I thought it might make a good shot so on the return home I made sure to stop and see what I could capture. Camera night shot capabilities never cease to amaze.
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Installed new Rotors and Pads as the old set had developed a bit of a grinding noise on the left. It started right after I had shown my daughter how to retract the caliper piston a bit to get the assy. off when she does her brakes at a later time. Anyway, new set needed breaking in so I went out early this morning, about 4 a.m. so I didn’t upset too many hot heads on their way to work. After several iterations of gradual braking to 5mph the caliper/pad drag was about gone. Much better than before when it was constant and got worse as I sped up. Decided to go for a longer drive south of town to give things more time to sort out. UT 68 is pretty deserted road this time of day. Stopped to get a picture of the Geneva Rock and Gravel quarry at Pelican Point. On the way south, I thought it might make a good shot so on the return home I made sure to stop and see what I could capture. Camera night shot capabilities never cease to amaze.
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Already got snow there at higher elevations?
 
A few days ago I picked up a few front end parts from Amazon for my 96 Chevy truck with the 6.5 goodwrench.Basically it’s a idler arm,idler bracket ,pitman,all tie rods and stabilizer links.I have new Delphi ball joints and two kugel brand wheel bearings.All the front end parts have grease fittings in them which is what I definitely wanted to get.

This truck has been off the road since 2015 and it’s definitely time to get it road ready.Its a rust free truck with new park brake cables,backing plates,drums and axle seals.I stripped it down back in 2015 and started reassembling things when I had the time to do so.

I also picked up a new air bag clock spring for my 96 gmc truck.I’ve been searching up and down for a few years to get one of these but a couple days ago on eBay I picked one up for $114.
 
This evening after work I had the wild hare to pull the 6.2 engine out and begin getting ready to see if it will run and what kind of condition it's in.

Got the home built A frame out and hoisted the engine up enough to pull the stand and attempt to attach a flexplate to the crank so I can attach a starter to the block to crank it. I quickly found out the bolts I had are too long and are for a clutch flywheel. ordered a set of ARP flexplate bolts from the jungle site that should arrive tomorrow.

I have more things to do before even attempting to crank it but I do know one if the things I need to find is a DB2 top cover with a working fuel shutoff solenoid or just the solenoid it's self. I had swapped the top covers from it on the 93 truck and ditched the inline one it had. I could plumb in that inline solenoid if I can't find one though.

if anyone has a working used one they want to part with let me know LOL.

I plan to pull the GP's and re-lube the cylinders, fill with some fresh oil. connect a gauge to the oil pressure port and prime the engine. then connect a fuel line to the IP, disconnect the injector lines and see if the IP will pump fuel. Then I'll almost be ready to fire it on the stand.

I had also used the turbo oil feed line from it on the 93, but just to test fire it I will plug that off and remove the turbo. probably also remove the upper intake so I can choke it in case I can't shut it off.

for me, this first test fire will be nerve racking LOL the engine will be on the engine stand and also hanging from the A frame for extra support.
 
This evening after work I had the wild hare to pull the 6.2 engine out and begin getting ready to see if it will run and what kind of condition it's in.

Got the home built A frame out and hoisted the engine up enough to pull the stand and attempt to attach a flexplate to the crank so I can attach a starter to the block to crank it. I quickly found out the bolts I had are too long and are for a clutch flywheel. ordered a set of ARP flexplate bolts from the jungle site that should arrive tomorrow.

I have more things to do before even attempting to crank it but I do know one if the things I need to find is a DB2 top cover with a working fuel shutoff solenoid or just the solenoid it's self. I had swapped the top covers from it on the 93 truck and ditched the inline one it had. I could plumb in that inline solenoid if I can't find one though.

if anyone has a working used one they want to part with let me know LOL.

I plan to pull the GP's and re-lube the cylinders, fill with some fresh oil. connect a gauge to the oil pressure port and prime the engine. then connect a fuel line to the IP, disconnect the injector lines and see if the IP will pump fuel. Then I'll almost be ready to fire it on the stand.

I had also used the turbo oil feed line from it on the 93, but just to test fire it I will plug that off and remove the turbo. probably also remove the upper intake so I can choke it in case I can't shut it off.

for me, this first test fire will be nerve racking LOL the engine will be on the engine stand and also hanging from the A frame for extra support.
What are you using to lube the cylinders?

Are you turning the engine over some before reinstalling the glow plugs?
 
What are you using to lube the cylinders?

Are you turning the engine over some before reinstalling the glow plugs?
I was thinking maybe some trans fluid or similar. the engine spins but has been sitting a while.

Yes I plan to keep the GP's out while spinning it so there is not compression while I prime the oil pump and see if the IP will pump fuel.

I need to prime it since I had already pulled the pan when I got the engine. I will spin it with a bar by hand a couple of rotations before attempting any on the starter.

I have a spare radiator and I think I have a lower hose. will need to get at least one hose, but I would like to run it up to operating temp, that is if I get that far. I want to see how much blow by it has. I had pulled the upper intake off when I stole the IP top with the solenoid for the 93 and to my surprise there was absolutely no evidence of oil residue inside the intake, so me thinks it might not have much blow by.

the main webs do have a couple of cracks in them but I was told it ran when it was pulled and that truck converted to a gasser. the guy said it was knocking.... when I first got the engine I pulled the front pulley and discovered the rubber gone and the pulley had almost smacked the bolt heads clean off! the front pulley was the knock! the HB is still in decent shape. it will be good enough to test fire it at lease.
 
My hope is that this engine is "good enough" to put into the 93 for a while so I can at some point maybe do a shade tree mechanics rebuild on that engine. the 93 has perufuse blow by. it's an engine out of a 99 model that was installed back in 09. engine I think has 340k on it if my math is right. if that engine doesn't have any web cracks, my hope is to hone the cylinders, do a re-ring job, timing chain, and maybe it can be a decent spare for when the 95 bites the dust.

my 95 runs great but the bolt mounts for the starter on the block is broken. been welded and still holding. when that goes, that engine will be toast.
 
@Paveltolz

When I drove otr trucks I traveled hwy 50 many times across UT to NV, there is a sign that says " loneliest road in America" that's a understatement....
Member 635 has fond memories of his OTR time on US-50 too.
I've driven it across the state many times. A few times across NV and to CA as well. Really like the lack of traffic and ease of passing or being passed. Just move along at your own pace. If you're really looking for solitude, try the old Pony Express Route under Dugway PGs, over the mountain and across NV to US-95...all Dirt. That's lonely.
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There is one little town along that road (I forget the name) with a sign that mentions speeding and a test zone- That area isn’t a joke. 1mph over will get you a ticket, never an exception.
The rest of the area is still people there who remember driving when the only speed limit description was “safe and prudent”. No traffic, good condition car, 120mph was fine & dandy. Never pass someone more than 15 mph difference.

It’s been almost 2 months since I went through last time. Will be heading through again mid Nov.
 
Well after work today I fiddled more with the 6.2 engine. the ARP bolts arrived for the flexplate, got that installed and the starter installed too.

squirted some penetrate oil into the cylinders after removing the GP's for now and took my ratchet on the HB bolt and rotated the engine over a few revolutions. it turned easily with the GP's out. no catches. threaded a gauge into the oil port where the sensor goes. Then I started looking at the other oil port where the line goes to the turbo feed. I had stolen the oil feed line for the 93 since this is what ultimately caused it to get parked by the PO. There was a steel line that connected to a port above the oil filter and ran over tot he valley where the hose connected and went to the turbo. since I don't have a hose for the turbo I am thinking about running a copper tube from above the oil filter over to the turbo and not removing the turbo just yet.

there is two other ports above the oil filter that are plugged off and one that's open which didn't have anything connected. I think that's just a threaded hole but not ported into the engine. I took some photos of the engine showing this area and of how close the injectors are to the manifold turbo side. the line nuts seem to be against the manifold along with one of the return lines flat against the manifold too. This I will need to tend to.

of the photos here, can someone tell me if the oil ports are correct as in the one with the adapter was to feed the turbo and the other two plugged one for oil cooler lines? also are these injectors the long body type or is something off with the exhaust manifold here?

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Stainless oil cooler hoses from Leroy Diesel arrived today.
The AARP exhaust manifold bolts was in yesterdays mail.
Tomorrow or Friday I will use the HS auto shop glass bead machine and work some more on the exhaust manifold ports where they mate to the heads. See if I can get them down to shiny cast instead of the crusty/rusty looking stuff. I would not be concerned about it except there is little minute spaces between the rusty sections and I think it might leak out exhaust at those areas. I want them sealed tight shut.
 
Stainless oil cooler hoses from Leroy Diesel arrived today.
The AARP exhaust manifold bolts was in yesterdays mail.
Tomorrow or Friday I will use the HS auto shop glass bead machine and work some more on the exhaust manifold ports where they mate to the heads. See if I can get them down to shiny cast instead of the crusty/rusty looking stuff. I would not be concerned about it except there is little minute spaces between the rusty sections and I think it might leak out exhaust at those areas. I want them sealed tight shut.
Those AARP bolts: are those old school high performance?
 
Well after work today I fiddled more with the 6.2 engine. the ARP bolts arrived for the flexplate, got that installed and the starter installed too.

squirted some penetrate oil into the cylinders after removing the GP's for now and took my ratchet on the HB bolt and rotated the engine over a few revolutions. it turned easily with the GP's out. no catches. threaded a gauge into the oil port where the sensor goes. Then I started looking at the other oil port where the line goes to the turbo feed. I had stolen the oil feed line for the 93 since this is what ultimately caused it to get parked by the PO. There was a steel line that connected to a port above the oil filter and ran over tot he valley where the hose connected and went to the turbo. since I don't have a hose for the turbo I am thinking about running a copper tube from above the oil filter over to the turbo and not removing the turbo just yet.

there is two other ports above the oil filter that are plugged off and one that's open which didn't have anything connected. I think that's just a threaded hole but not ported into the engine. I took some photos of the engine showing this area and of how close the injectors are to the manifold turbo side. the line nuts seem to be against the manifold along with one of the return lines flat against the manifold too. This I will need to tend to.

of the photos here, can someone tell me if the oil ports are correct as in the one with the adapter was to feed the turbo and the other two plugged one for oil cooler lines? also are these injectors the long body type or is something off with the exhaust manifold here?



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I honestly don't know what's going on with the injectors sorry.

WRT to picture two, shown above, this is where I connected my oil feed line for the turbo. I used a brass 45* with short brass pipes to get things up to where access could be had, T'd it for the OPS and the feed line. The lower port, above the correctly identified oil cooler line ports and where you've currently got an oil hose connector is where I screwed in the sender for my Oil Pressure Gauge's Sender.

On first install, back in 2013 when the engine rebuild was new, it looked like thus but,,,
201202 OPS-TurboFeed.JPG...the hose failed so now there's a 1/4" NPT to -6AM fitting at the "T" vs. the feed hose threading straight in.
201202 OPS-TurboFeed-1.JPG

Later, I took the brass parts off to try dressing things up with Anodized fittings only to discover that the AN Fittings didn't provide a path to ground for the OPS.
20151121 New OPS-TurboFeed-5.JPG

No bueno. Out with the new and in with the old.
 
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Well this afternoon I spent time digging though all my garage, storage shed and other various places looking for the oil pan bolts! I didn't put them all back when I set the pan back on the block and now somehow have misplaced 12 of the bolts! I did manage to find 6 others the right length and thread pattern. This will get me enough to fill it with oil and prime everything. it might seep some oil but it'll be good enough to run on the stand.

I can't believe I misplaced those bolts! I have the 6 I found plus about 4-5 that are holding the pan on. even if I have enough to hit every other hole that will work till I make a trip to the hardware store. if all works out the engine will get a full gasket refresh anyway.
 
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