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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Stationed in Germany and the service contract on the units' Dell Lap Tops included on site service calls to the base for the first year then parts only for the next two. My side duty as the Company Tech Security Officer (actual title long forgotten) was to accompany the service tech. So, I got to learn how simple they were to work on. I had been building and servicing desk tops on my own for a couple of years so, no fear. When the on site service expired, I just did the work and kept them up and running until they were phased out and new ones came in. Rinse and repeat.
 
Big T said:
Test fire as in shoot the pos up?

This is the 2nd laptop battery I had expand. First was on a work laptop, so they paid for the service. This one was mine and I did the tried and true Google search, found some videos, opened it up and had the battery out in no time.
Click to expand...
Well adding a little lead in the lithium would be more fun. in my backyard I would only have the option of a steak knife LOL. I've heard all it takes is to pierce and short out a layer or two, then its an inextinguishable fire till it burns out.
 
ATP was making that cable long before I contacted them.
They either think it is the same as the 6.5 cable or they just
don't want to invest in another part number.
Y-368 is for the 6.2 and uses a different bracket on the IP.
This has been a problem for a long time.
And on the IP differences -
The drivers side/cable side of the IP throttle arm is the same for both civilian and military IP’s.
The pass. side on the milt. IP’s can be for the military TPS or the civilian TPS, depends on application.
Both TPS’s put out the exact same signal and both have 3 wires. The TCM will use either one.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Well adding a little lead in the lithium would be more fun. in my backyard I would only have the option of a steak knife LOL. I've heard all it takes is to pierce and short out a layer or two, then its an inextinguishable fire till it burns out.
Click to expand...
On the news, some California fire department used over 50,000 gallons of water to extinguish a vehicle battery fire.
IDR if it was a car or truck battery.
I think the effort was wasted and the battery just finally run out of fuel.
 
Getting a phew components gathered up.
In todays mail come a box with a coolant pump backing plate and a half a dozen bolts, two ARP starter bolts, and a Bosch injector socket.
Next I would like to get the GM original balanced flow coolant pump on the way.
First make a huge dent in the credit card bill.
Insurance co is paying on the estimate that the repairs for the 1991 Oldsmobile. About $2200.00, taking that money plus the biggest share of my pay check and dropping that to the CC then once again I’ll have some room to move around.
 
Today I flushed out the cooling system in the 93 and filled with fresh antifreeze. I went to crawl down under the truck and attempt to pull the block drains and quickly realized this block had none! I double checked their location by looking at the 6.2 on the stand (located right behind the engine mount brackets) there is not even bosses on the block like my 95 has but no plugs. this engine must have a different casting. I know it's a 99 model block but there's nothing there.

pulled the lower rad hose from the engine and out came the nastiest dark brown mix I have seen. much worse than how my 95 was when I did it. pulled open the top side and ran the garden hose in and let it flow till it was clear, then cranked up the engine with the hose flowing. got even more muck out. flushed out the radiator good too. put everything back together and poured in two gallons of straight coolant I picked up from walmart. this was supposed to be green but was more of a yellowish light green color. it seems that it's getting harder and harder to find the "old green" coolant nowadays.

anyway it's got antifreeze in it and should be much happier now. I wasn't having any heating issues but figured I'd get it done early since I tried this right before last winter and no one in town had antifreeze in stock! I ended up pulling and draining the block on it and the Jetta last winter.
Now that it's being driven more I had better get it done.

I just need to pickup another gallon for the 95 since it's still has some but I've been topping it off with water here and there throughout the year.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Today I flushed out the cooling system in the 93 and filled with fresh antifreeze. I went to crawl down under the truck and attempt to pull the block drains and quickly realized this block had none! I double checked their location by looking at the 6.2 on the stand (located right behind the engine mount brackets) there is not even bosses on the block like my 95 has but no plugs. this engine must have a different casting. I know it's a 99 model block but there's nothing there.

pulled the lower rad hose from the engine and out came the nastiest dark brown mix I have seen. much worse than how my 95 was when I did it. pulled open the top side and ran the garden hose in and let it flow till it was clear, then cranked up the engine with the hose flowing. got even more muck out. flushed out the radiator good too. put everything back together and poured in two gallons of straight coolant I picked up from walmart. this was supposed to be green but was more of a yellowish light green color. it seems that it's getting harder and harder to find the "old green" coolant nowadays.

anyway it's got antifreeze in it and should be much happier now. I wasn't having any heating issues but figured I'd get it done early since I tried this right before last winter and no one in town had antifreeze in stock! I ended up pulling and draining the block on it and the Jetta last winter.
Now that it's being driven more I had better get it done.

I just need to pickup another gallon for the 95 since it's still has some but I've been topping it off with water here and there throughout the year.
Click to expand...
Amazon or
Walmart online for your coolant.
 
Yeah I was just looking into it. it seems zerex and peak still does the old green stuff. I should have gone to Oreilliey's for it their house brand seems to be the green stuff made by peak reading online.
 
Well this afternoon I decided to relocate the LP on the 93 truck from under the hood to the frame rail same as I did on the 95. Both trucks are using the Facet Dura-Lift pump. The PO had mounted it on the drivers inner fender well near the battery and ran diesel rated rubber fuel hose both supply and return from the engine to the tank. I have been wanting to get it out from under the hood due to the heat. it was fairly easy to get it wired up since he had already done the relay mod on the OPS and didn't disturb the factory wiring. all I had to do was clip the grey wire on the OPS going back to the OE LP harness and run that up to the relay, then I tied into the factory harness under the cab and connected the LP.

plumbing... well that was another thing. there were two rubber fuel lines along the frame that the PO had ran. I thought I had traced them out and figured which one was the supply, cut into it and put the LP inline. Well I was wrong LOL. I mistakenly cut into the return hose, that became very evident when I attempted to bleed out the air by priming the pump!! Oopsie.....

well I cobbled up a splice to put that hose back together again and cut into the other hose and put the pump inline. priming attempt #2 was a success. I had fuel coming out the correct hose LOL. all the fuel hoses will eventually be replaced with fresh hose and possibly sections of steel tubing on the frame and up into the engine compartment at some point, so I'm not worried about my splice plus I found two other splices under there while working with it.

Now that almost all of the wiring has been cleaned up, TCU now under the dash, LP moved to the frame, I need to get some split loom and finish up all the wiring that's still on the drivers inner fender and make it all look nice.

AC is still blowing ice cold too! I had scavenged the manifold hoses from the compressor from the pick a part yard and installed a new accumulator and orifice a while back not expecting the AC to work since it all had been open to the environment since what I can tell 2009. The compressor is still holding up and I have not had to add any refrigerant since I did this several months back. Although I am not running R134a in it. it's charged with R152A aka cans of office duster from wally world. I've ran it in another old vehicle with success so I went with it on this truck.

Back in the day I had an old Econoline van with rear air that had a compressor that was on it's last leg and couldn't pump enough volume with the factory 134a. I had done the research and found that R152a was very similar to old R12 for pressures and didn't require a robust compressor like 134a does. running it in that van brought the AC back to life until the day I took out a deer on the road destroying the front end!
 
BTW, I almost forgot. while I was under the truck I was looking at the old factory trans connector that was tucked away under the truck. curiosity has had my thoughts here and there wondering if there was a way I could test or check if the factory TCM still worked.

looking at the connector I can see that it's different than the one on the trans (trans has been rebuilt) but wondering if I were to snag up on an updated pigtail from the pick a part yard and make me a "conversion" pigtail just to test, would it possibly work. at the moment I have no idea if the trans was changed over from the old to the new on the inside, meaning how the 92-94 worked vs how the newer 95+ does. all I can tell is the internal harness has been updated, it does not have the large electric selector switch on the shift shaft. it uses the old rod type linkage.

here is what the connector looks like... its the old style in this photo I found on the web.

1727755650686.png
 
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dbrannon79 said:
Yup just make sure it says "difluoroethane" on the back of the can. this is what I used.

www.walmart.com

onn. Electronics Duster Compressed Gas Cleaner, 10 oz, 4-Pack, length 2.56, width 10.31, height 8.39 inches - Walmart.com

Buy onn. Electronics Duster Compressed Gas Cleaner, 10 oz, 4-Pack, length 2.56, width 10.31, height 8.39 inches at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com

it's cheaper to use the 4 pack vs buying it by each can. you will have to use a side can tap though.
Click to expand...
Not familiar with side can tap.
Is that an adapter that fits the AC charge hose ?
 
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