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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Marty we probably have a good shot of the heads being good on the old 506 engine. It never overheated.

Marty, if you do order a new engine, save on your old block! they are hard to find without cracks the 6.2 I have is cracked. the 93 is unknown but has a 99 engine. and my 95... well even if it's not cracked there, the starter mount point is cracked LOL

I am curious though on your block about bore measurements if the wear is worth having bored. wonder if it's within tolerance to just have it honed and re-ringed pistons even coated pistons from Chris with gapless rings. iirc he mentioned that coating the pistons would bring a slightly worn engine back to life with some gapless rings. how much blowby did it have if any?

if BigT's old heads are good you might have enough goods to build on your block and make a sound engine
Yup. The old engine is not going anywhere.
I did not ream the ridge from the top of the cylinders. I was able to wiggle the pistons and press them on through the ridge.
The top spot where the Pistons stop, there is a visible place where the rings stop then start their downward travel.
Yeah, i am hoping that the heads from Your 506 will be in good condition and be able to be used.
I would very much like to go ahead and build this engine regardless that I most likely will never be around long enough to wear out this Optimizer thats on its way over. 🤷😹😹😹
 
I do have a set of the long feeler gauges from 0.0015 on up to 0.040.
I’m interested in, after removing the rings from the pistons, then lay in with the feeler gauges and just gauge what there is for clearance between piston and cylinder walls.
Too tired to poke around with it right now. Probably after I get the truck back together and have a little shop room. While working over that 74 Triumph Triple cylinder motorcicle enjun.😹
 
This arrived in todays mail.

I will not install this new tune until I have the engine running and thoroughly tuned on the original PCM before installing this new unit.
Just for safety measures.
FWIW, my $0.02, It is more about the break in period and how you treat it for the first 1000 miles or so than the tune you're running but, I understand the trepidation.

Finally got some work done on my truck this week. Oil change and shocks were on the short list. Were....
It was while starting on the oil change and fighting to get the filter to release when I noticed the damaged driver's side Upper Ball Joint still in the left knuckle. Huh? Over a month ago I couldn't get it to separate from the knuckle, damaging the ball joint with the pickle fork in the process so, turned it over to Les Schwab to complete...they'd done the right side instead. So much for the 'short list.' Looked over the paperwork and sure enough, my attention to detail failed again. 'Replace Right Upper Control Arm and Ball Joint.' Great. That'$$$ my fault. They got it done same day but, dang, wasted money.

The oil filter was done by an oil change place (yeah, I know). I was getting ready for the August road trips and was pressed for time so took it in instead of doing it myself. 'Those without sin may cast the first stone')! Since I hadn't drained the oil yet, I took it back and told 'em to un-screw their issues both literally and figuratively. The manager recognized my truck and told me he'd fired the guy who did my work last time because he'd been gorilla gripping too many other cars. Maybe next change I can do my own work again.

I did get the correct length shocks back in though. Monroe's 4600 vs. 5100. 5100's were too long with the lift removed and compressed so much with the lowered ride height there wasn't much more than an inch or two of travel available. The ride is much better now.

The wife wants to get a trailer so we went to the RV show in town. Nothing suitable a K1500 could tow safely...the truck's 5000 lbs limit is to low. Either upgrade suspension and brakes or get a 2500 or 3500 truck. Hotels are a lot cheaper than a travel trailer in the meantime.
 
Brakes shouldn't be an issue so long at the trailer has good brakes. as for suspension, maybe some add on air bags or air shocks for the rear to keep from sagging. something that you can ether quick change or let the air out when not in use. if the rig is capable and the rear axle can handle the load you should be golden. Of course I wouldn't go with a three axle 40 footer though. maybe a 25' or 5th wheel shortty.

with my truck as long as it is with the bed and crew cab, I have always thought about finding a light weight ladder rack and modifying it to extend over the full length of the cab, then setting it up for overland camping. a big pop up roof and light weight sides. I could possibly fit an entire king size mattress over the cab with plenty of room for amenities in the bed. it would have to be light weight though so it all could be removed from the truck too. maybe with slide in camper jacks or somesuch.
 
FWIW, my $0.02, It is more about the break in period and how you treat it for the first 1000 miles or so than the tune you're running but, I understand the trepidation.

Finally got some work done on my truck this week. Oil change and shocks were on the short list. Were....
It was while starting on the oil change and fighting to get the filter to release when I noticed the damaged driver's side Upper Ball Joint still in the left knuckle. Huh? Over a month ago I couldn't get it to separate from the knuckle, damaging the ball joint with the pickle fork in the process so, turned it over to Les Schwab to complete...they'd done the right side instead. So much for the 'short list.' Looked over the paperwork and sure enough, my attention to detail failed again. 'Replace Right Upper Control Arm and Ball Joint.' Great. That'$$$ my fault. They got it done same day but, dang, wasted money.

The oil filter was done by an oil change place (yeah, I know). I was getting ready for the August road trips and was pressed for time so took it in instead of doing it myself. 'Those without sin may cast the first stone')! Since I hadn't drained the oil yet, I took it back and told 'em to un-screw their issues both literally and figuratively. The manager recognized my truck and told me he'd fired the guy who did my work last time because he'd been gorilla gripping too many other cars. Maybe next change I can do my own work again.

I did get the correct length shocks back in though. Monroe's 4600 vs. 5100. 5100's were too long with the lift removed and compressed so much with the lowered ride height there wasn't much more than an inch or two of travel available. The ride is much better now.

The wife wants to get a trailer so we went to the RV show in town. Nothing suitable a K1500 could tow safely...the truck's 5000 lbs limit is to low. Either upgrade suspension and brakes or get a 2500 or 3500 truck. Hotels are a lot cheaper than a travel trailer in the meantime.
Yup, understand about the breakin period/miles.
The original ECM has the tune that I know works. IP timing procedure will have to be relearned but once thats done the truck should run just great.
Once I get the seat of the pants performance discovered then I’ll install the new ECM, check timing and adjust if necessary, instructions says it will learn my timing set, then if there is any problems they can be easily recognized and a message(s) to Q Star should get them dissolved. 😹
Decided to use dissolved instead of resolved because there was no previous solved so there would be no re. 🤷😹😹😹

I kind of like those popup pickup bed campers.
They have their own jacks attached and are easily removed. Dont know if they can come with a shower or sh@er though. Possible I guess if special ordered.
My 1993 K1500, installed air bags with shrader valves at the back bumper. That increased the towing capacity of that truck.
 
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Most come with an outside shower and portable 💩 er. You can customize them if your building though. just be sure to take swimming trunks for the outside shower LOL or others might get thrills!
 
Drove the black 93 truck to work today. ran perfectly fine though I need to save up for a new starter. it's clicking almost every time once or twice now when trying to start up. you just can't beat those Powermaster starters!

So far o good on the oil leak on the GV unit. after doing it the "right" way by plugging up the tiny hole in the solenoid with silicone it's looking like it's leak free!!
 
DB2 question.... does anyone know what the oem length is and what the cable end type is for the throttle cable? I want to attempt to replace mine knowing they are NLA but I would go look but can't while at work. just need to know about what the length is and what the end looks like that latches to the IP.

I think it has this type of end but not sure.
1726495757511.png
 
Thanks @Glagulator I can use this to possibly make one. I was looking on the jungle site and found this 60" universal cable. I wonder if I can use this with a little southern engineering and make it work.


it doesn't show what the size is for the diameter of the hole on the end, but it does come with a couple of cable stops. I don't know if Mine is actually bad, but I don't want to pull it out until I have something in hand that I might could make work.
 
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Can a moderator take a screenshot of the drawing and put that in the stickies- maybe note years of pickups ot fits?

Seems like something crucial for the future for a lot of people.

Makes me think I should search out one for hummer/hmmwv as well.
 
I am curious if they didn't respond and took your drawing making one anyway. I just went digging through RA starting from 1986 trucks and went up the years from there finding the OBS used a 39" cable. there is also a listing for ATP for the 1988 C2500 6.2 diesel from ATP for a 49" cable

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...iesel,1032848,interior,accelerator+cable,5892

if ATP added a couple of inches just to change something on your design or drawing and maybe calling it theirs ??

1991 - 1993 k1500 6.2 shows a 30.5" cable with photos more like what my 93 has.
 
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While waiting for my son to come over before we headed up to Big Bear Lake (did not happen) I decided to pull the inflated battery out of my HP Envy Laptop. Gotta say this process was easy and probably explains why millennials and Gen Z rarely work on cars. New battery arrived today and I’ll have it installed in less than 10 minutes.

IMG_5718.jpegIMG_5719.jpeg
 
While waiting for my son to come over before we headed up to Big Bear Lake (did not happen) I decided to pull the inflated battery out of my HP Envy Laptop. Gotta say this process was easy and probably explains why millennials and Gen Z rarely work on cars. New battery arrived today and I’ll have it installed in less than 10 minutes.

View attachment 89737View attachment 89738
That would be a perfect candidate to do a test fire on a controlled area! likewise that would have been a very bad day had it gone up while still in the laptop and inside!
 
That would be a perfect candidate to do a test fire on a controlled area! likewise that would have been a very bad day had it gone up while still in the laptop and inside!
Test fire as in shoot the pos up?

This is the 2nd laptop battery I had expand. First was on a work laptop, so they paid for the service. This one was mine and I did the tried and true Google search, found some videos, opened it up and had the battery out in no time.
 
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