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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Yeah the 4wd sideways is just to clear the front driveshaft.
Doing a remote makes oil changes easier depending where you put it, but two more oil lines that can fail and longer for the new oil to get to bearings.

The delay can be eliminated if you install a pre oiler accumulator. High tech with electric valve can be done, or a simple ball valve controlled via mechanical cable.
 
Talking of the horizontal mount oil filter adapter.
The seal on my truck had begun to leave a drip or five.
I want to address this situation while the new engine is on the stand.
Went to NAPA, Felpro kit. Not anywhere close to what is required for the 6.5.
Took a drive to the Chevy dealer. Got the parts man to search it out. All three seals are NLA through the GM dealer.
He however did print me out a sheet with the part numbers of the seals.
It dont tell which position the seal numbers occupy.
It says one of each but I do believe that there are two seals on the bolt that both appear to be the same.
Maybe when I get to doing some research I’ll know a little more about them.
1 PN 12559095 (S) SEAL
1 PN 12559583F - (S) SEAL
1 PN 12559584 SEAL
AND I have thought of going the remote mount OF.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Talking of the horizontal mount oil filter adapter.
The seal on my truck had begun to leave a drip or five.
I want to address this situation while the new engine is on the stand.
Went to NAPA, Felpro kit. Not anywhere close to what is required for the 6.5.
Took a drive to the Chevy dealer. Got the parts man to search it out. All three seals are NLA through the GM dealer.
He however did print me out a sheet with the part numbers of the seals.
It dont tell which position the seal numbers occupy.
It says one of each but I do believe that there are two seals on the bolt that both appear to be the same.
Maybe when I get to doing some research I’ll know a little more about them.
1 PN 12559095 (S) SEAL
1 PN 12559583F - (S) SEAL
1 PN 12559584 SEAL
AND I have thought of going the remote mount OF.
Click to expand...
Leroy sells the seals as a kit.

Leroy Diesel

leroydiesel.com leroydiesel.com
 
MrMarty51 said:
Talking of the horizontal mount oil filter adapter.
The seal on my truck had begun to leave a drip or five.
I want to address this situation while the new engine is on the stand.
Went to NAPA, Felpro kit. Not anywhere close to what is required for the 6.5.
Took a drive to the Chevy dealer. Got the parts man to search it out. All three seals are NLA through the GM dealer.
He however did print me out a sheet with the part numbers of the seals.
It dont tell which position the seal numbers occupy.
It says one of each but I do believe that there are two seals on the bolt that both appear to be the same.
Maybe when I get to doing some research I’ll know a little more about them.
1 PN 12559095 (S) SEAL
1 PN 12559583F - (S) SEAL
1 PN 12559584 SEAL
AND I have thought of going the remote mount OF.
Click to expand...
I just checked the oil filter adapter seal kit that I got from Leroy Diesel.
The O ring that fits between the block and the adapter does protrude above the housing groove so it will seal just fine.
The original seal is more like the seal on an oil filter, thick and square.
I guess thats what I was expecting when I ordered the Felpro kit and the O ring in that kit didnt look like it was substantial enough to do the job.
I think I might check the seals on a couple of old oil filters in the drain out bucket and see if one of those seals will fit the adapter, more like the OE seal.
 
I finally got the copper tubing in place for the turbo feed line. Used the nuts from the old hose and made flares on the tubing. Also sliced a piece of clear tubing I had and used it as an insulator to tie down and secure the tubing. looks decent, but I couldn't bend it as sharp as I had hoped. The solenoid arrived that goes in the top cover of the IP. got that swapped out too but when installing it the top cover didn't "spring" back like I remember when I swapped out the top covers on the 93. I double and triple checked I had it installed correctly, buttoned it down and wired it up.

I plan tomorrow to pull the left side injector lines off and crank on it a bit actuating that solenoid on and off watching fuel from the lines hoping it stops when the solenoid is off.

Here is some photos of the copper oil line I made. also you can see my makeshift harness for the GP's, four spades split out to one wire on both sides. inline fuses at the battery end.

IMG_5561.jpg
IMG_5562.jpg
IMG_5563.jpg
 
Later if the engine is good, I could make the copper line shorter and look better by using a 90 fitting at both ends, but I also would want to access it behind the manifold when the engine is in the truck too.

BTW if someone happens to have a db2 top cover they can snap a photo showing the angle of the dangle on that lever that would be nice. this solenoid is of chineesium and I don't trust it. the old solenoid was a 24v one and someone ripped out the lever and spring that goes on it. I didn't have any reference to if it was aligned correctly. missing that lever might also have been why if seemed like it was flooding with fuel while cranking and with the other inline solenoid stopping the return line is only slowed down the fuel mist from the GP holes.
 
n8in8or said:
Leroy sells the seals as a kit.

Leroy Diesel

leroydiesel.com leroydiesel.com
Click to expand...
What I was not seeing in the seal kits was the size of the original seal.
It didnt seem possible for the skinny O ring to be able to make a proper seal, as compared to the old seal.
IMG_0915.jpeg
It is more like the gasket/seal from an oil filter and in my overthinking, overkill mind could not see how that smaller O ring could possibly protrude far enough to make a proper seal but it will. I’ll run with it.
Getting ready to install it, the adapter and the elbows from Leroy Diesel.
The chrome antiseize has not yet arrived from the journey through the jungle so installing the manifolds will have to wait.
 
MrMarty51 said:
What I was not seeing in the seal kits was the size of the original seal.
It didnt seem possible for the skinny O ring to be able to make a proper seal, as compared to the old seal.
View attachment 90268
It is more like the gasket/seal from an oil filter and in my overthinking, overkill mind could not see how that smaller O ring could possibly protrude far enough to make a proper seal but it will. I’ll run with it.
Getting ready to install it, the adapter and the elbows from Leroy Diesel.
The chrome antiseize has not yet arrived from the journey through the jungle so installing the manifolds will have to wait.
Click to expand...
Hmm, I’m not sure I’ve seen an adapter with that rectangular profile o-ring before. Someone may have used an oil filter gasket in a pinch. I could be wrong though.
 
Well I have monkeyed more with that 6.2 and all I can get it to do is bark off then it dies within a split second. after a few times if this I noticed some fuel leaking from the injector return lines. replace the leaking rubber tubes, also took my air compressor and made sure the return lines were clear and not obstructed.

I did confirm the new fuel shutoff solenoid is working, pulled the 4 injector line nuts loose on the non turbo side, solenoid powered and I get fuel, no power and no fuel. when installing it, the inside of the IP was clean


I've crank it plenty with the GP's out and the IP is well primed and all 8 are pushing fuel out the GP holes. put GP's back in and connect my makeshift harness, touch it on the battery for about 8 seconds (wires start to warm up) then crank.... takes a couple of revolutions and puffs of smoke from the manifolds then it barks off on what sounds like all 8 cylinders like a loud deep RUUUFFFF and dies with plums of black smoke.

I'm not touching the throttle during this adventure and to be honest I'm leaning on the side of being chicken 💩 about it running away too LOL

I do have some clear tubing on the return from the IP and I'm not seeing any air bubbles though I am only gravity feeding it by hanging a can of diesel above the engine on the A frame. Where should I go from here?
 
dbrannon79 said:
Well I have monkeyed more with that 6.2 and all I can get it to do is bark off then it dies within a split second. after a few times if this I noticed some fuel leaking from the injector return lines. replace the leaking rubber tubes, also took my air compressor and made sure the return lines were clear and not obstructed.

I did confirm the new fuel shutoff solenoid is working, pulled the 4 injector line nuts loose on the non turbo side, solenoid powered and I get fuel, no power and no fuel. when installing it, the inside of the IP was clean


I've crank it plenty with the GP's out and the IP is well primed and all 8 are pushing fuel out the GP holes. put GP's back in and connect my makeshift harness, touch it on the battery for about 8 seconds (wires start to warm up) then crank.... takes a couple of revolutions and puffs of smoke from the manifolds then it barks off on what sounds like all 8 cylinders like a loud deep RUUUFFFF and dies with plums of black smoke.

I'm not touching the throttle during this adventure and to be honest I'm leaning on the side of being chicken 💩 about it running away too LOL

I do have some clear tubing on the return from the IP and I'm not seeing any air bubbles though I am only gravity feeding it by hanging a can of diesel above the engine on the A frame. Where should I go from here?
Click to expand...
Might need a little fuel pressure ? ? ? ? 🤷
 
n8in8or said:
Hmm, I’m not sure I’ve seen an adapter with that rectangular profile o-ring before. Someone may have used an oil filter gasket in a pinch. I could be wrong though.
Click to expand...
Looks mighty substantial to Me.
I installed the OF aadapter, when I removed the oil filter the gasket/seal stuck to the engine side.
I fit it onto the filter adapter and it was a perfect fit.
That could possible be a better option than the O ring.
If ever the O ring begins leaking I will respond with an OF gasket.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Looks mighty substantial to Me.
I installed the OF aadapter, when I removed the oil filter the gasket/seal stuck to the engine side.
I fit it onto the filter adapter and it was a perfect fit.
That could possible be a better option than the O ring.
If ever the O ring begins leaking I will respond with an OF gasket.
Click to expand...
I have seen these trucks with the oil filter adapter removed altogether and just went with a straight up and down filter like what’s found on 2wd gmt400 trucks.A guy my father knows has this sort of thing done on his gmt400 truck with a 305 TBI engine.His is also a K1500.
 
dieselolds said:
I have seen these trucks with the oil filter adapter removed altogether and just went with a straight up and down filter like what’s found on 2wd gmt400 trucks.A guy my father knows has this sort of thing done on his gmt400 truck with a 305 TBI engine.His is also a K1500.
Click to expand...
I have wondered about doing that, adapter removal.
Be one less chance of an oil leak.
 
Ya know, the oil filter on the LS gassers is really short but is one of the best aua filters around. I’ve no idea if it would fit/work, but maybe something like it would work.
The real drawback is these engines have such amazingly dirty oil that the filter is already barely enough to get to 3,000 miles, and not even that often.

The aftermarket remote kits almost never have issues. I wish in my hummer there was a good place to put a remote filter.
 
Will L. said:
Ya know, the oil filter on the LS gassers is really short but is one of the best aua filters around. I’ve no idea if it would fit/work, but maybe something like it would work.
The real drawback is these engines have such amazingly dirty oil that the filter is already barely enough to get to 3,000 miles, and not even that often.

The aftermarket remote kits almost never have issues. I wish in my hummer there was a good place to put a remote filter.
Click to expand...
I have looked at those remote kits on Leroys site, several times. I keep passing it on by.
Maybe after I get bunch paid off on this CC I’ll bail in and grab one of his remote kits.
I was looking at the instruction book for the Air Dog LP kit. There is a lot to that setup.
When I ordered that setup, I instructed to be sure to include everything required to install that onto My 2000 K3500. As heavy and full as that box is, it appears that they didnt miss a thing. 👍😹😹😹
 
That is what I was wondering, if the threads are there in the block to just remove the 4x4 adapter and the filter would thread right on, or I would need to find the threaded part to put back into the block.
 
I suppose when I do the engine swap on my 93 I can pull it off and use it on this 6.2 block then.

there are a lot of pieces I will need to swap over on it like the timing cover that has the crank sensor hole and whatnot. hoping that piece is interchangeable.
 
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