• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dieselolds said:
If my engines start to leak from those adapters and cause grief I’ll just go with the straight up and down filter.Like was stated earlier it’s less leakage points to worry about in the long run.
Click to expand...
Are you able to do that with a GMT400 4x4?

On the 2wd I used to use the 2 quart filter.

Will: I think (could be wrong) the part on the 90° can be removed and installed into the block.
Just swap these two:

I was going to suggest trying that. I thought I remembered doing that, just a few short years ago.
 
jrsavoie said:
Are you able to do that with a GMT400 4x4?

On the 2wd I used to use the 2 quart filter.

Will: I think (could be wrong) the part on the 90° can be removed and installed into the block.
Just swap these two:

I was going to suggest trying that. I thought I remembered doing that, just a few short years ago.
Click to expand...
It has been done before on a mid or early 90s K1500 with 305 or 350 that belongs to someone my father knows.Seems there is enough room to just install a straight up and down filter.
 
dieselolds said:
It has been done before on a mid or early 90s K1500 with 305 or 350 that belongs to someone my father knows.Seems there is enough room to just install a straight up and down filter.
Click to expand...
If ever have to take the adapter off the 1994, I might remember to look into that.

Leroy’s lines seem to make the oil filter even harder to get to
 
Thanks Chris, I will most likely need one of these in the near future.

BTW @Will you were correct. looking at the link Chris posted it shows "Same fitting is on the 4WD adapters holding the filter component" so I guess if one has the adapter for the 4wd then it can just be pulled and installed into the block!
 
Well folks guess what.... I finally got over my chickening and went for it! the 6.2 runs.

for about the 4th or 5th time I checked and verified fuel to the injectors would stop with the loss of power to the IP then went for it. I had my wife help me record a video, didn't get to record myself starting it on the first run but had her record the second round. Didn't want to run it very long with no cooling system on it so I cut that short.

oil pressure stays about 40 on the gauge and I thought I saw a little oil in the turbo inlet but I will pull the upper intake and verify that since the inside was clean before I started it. the engine is showing a little blowby but again didn't run it long enough to know how bad it really is. No knocking that I can tell but at idle it kinda jerks around and smooths out with a slight increase of the throttle though I didn't want to romp on it with my make shift a-frame and stand setup.

tell me what yall think. is it worth it moving forward, and what would be my next steps? maybe rig up a cooling system and run it longer?


 
dbrannon79 said:
Well folks guess what.... I finally got over my chickening and went for it! the 6.2 runs.

for about the 4th or 5th time I checked and verified fuel to the injectors would stop with the loss of power to the IP then went for it. I had my wife help me record a video, didn't get to record myself starting it on the first run but had her record the second round. Didn't want to run it very long with no cooling system on it so I cut that short.

oil pressure stays about 40 on the gauge and I thought I saw a little oil in the turbo inlet but I will pull the upper intake and verify that since the inside was clean before I started it. the engine is showing a little blowby but again didn't run it long enough to know how bad it really is. No knocking that I can tell but at idle it kinda jerks around and smooths out with a slight increase of the throttle though I didn't want to romp on it with my make shift a-frame and stand setup.

tell me what yall think. is it worth it moving forward, and what would be my next steps? maybe rig up a cooling system and run it longer?


Click to expand...
Dont sound too bad.
Once installed, try cracking loose some injector lines, figure out why the uneven idle.
 
Washed the oily substance from the new exhaust maneeefold bolts.
Looked them over for the best option of adding studs to four of the longest units. I think that metric allen head bolts with a good portion of the head ground down is going to be the best option.
I thought about not adding the studs to the tops of the bolts and placing the heat shields in position then shoving the bolts on through.
Problem: if the GPs need to be replaced then those four manifold bolts will need to be pulled in order to properly plug the wires to the GPs.
For such instances, I will have the tops of them bolts with a stud planted on them and the heat shields held down with a nut.
 
Well I started up the 6.2 engine this afternoon to show a friend that I had it running. then when I shut it off after running for maybe a minuet i saw something I didn't like....

There was some exhaust gases slowly coming from both heads at where the thermostat crossover mounts..... I assume head gaskets or cracked heads??
 
Injectors all adjusted and returned, in todays mail.
Charged $176.00 and that included postage.
Now I can start some serious engine assemblage.
I could have installed the injection pump sooner but I didnt want to crack loose the injection tube fittings at the pump.
This way the pump can be fitted to the cover, tubes attached to the injectors, but not yet tightened then the pump gear, front of the front cover and coolant pump.
Along with several other items then the engine can be poked into the hole. 👍😹😹😹
 
Got the stud heads attached to the four exhaust manifold bolts.
Now getting ready to install the injectors. The book dont say, should an anti seize be used on the threads of the injectors.
All the book says is to install the injectors and torque to 50 ft. lbs.
If anti seize is used, should the torque be reduced ? By how much ?
I know some of the studs are not true and straight. I had no way of holding them in such a fashion. The 13mm socket still fits over the hex of the bolt very nicely.
IMG_0954.jpeg

IMG_0949.jpeg
 
I personally would use some anti-seize on the threads, both the injectors and GP's. make sure you were able to get all the copper washers out of the heads on the old engine if reusing them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top