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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dbrannon79 said:
Might not be the best price, but I did call powermaster back when I got mine and they told me to get it from one of their authorized dealers. They named Summit Racing as one of them they'll honor warranty from. So that's where I went. I was going to get from Amazon since they has the best price but they told me they would not honor from them.
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I got and returned a PM starter from Amazon. I bought. And picked up directly from PM
 
Big T said:
I just ordered from Quadstar and threw in some ARP starter bolts.
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I got the new AARP starter bolts and warshers, I though failed to order the starter.
Hope my starter holds out until I get another six or eight grand paid off on that C card thing.
I did get the return fuel hoses/pipes plumbed in and fastened down.
ACE had bolts long enough to go through the alternator bracketry, coolant pump and into the block. So it is fastened down solid.
IDK if I am just after work tired but seems I get off the job and there just is no energy to do what I enjoy the most. Working on my treasures.
After loosing them bolts and cant remember where some of the other components bolts up to, My level of confidence is ebbing.
I still have the air dog LP system to install and going to try and have that done before the weekend so maybe the engine can be dropped in, hooked up and running.
I do have a son that lives here and he will be called on for this weekend, during the week he works a stressful job, has a new wife and stepson and I would call on him weekday evenings only in an emergency situation.
Anyhow, I will not take on another project of this size ever again.
I have much smaller items that dont take near the energy and can be done in a shorter span of time. I hope. 😹😹😹1730175420203.png
 
Removed most of the entire old fuel system from the truck.
Carter lift pump, relay harness, fuel pipes and hoses thats run over the bell housing.
Going to go with 3/8ths hose from the Air Dog to the IP and then hose back to the return pipe back by the LP.
Eliminate the steel/hose combos all together. QS sent along enough hose to cover that.
I will source 5/16ths diesel rated hose to cover from the back of the engine return to the steel tube back by the LP.
With the fuel gauge I also had ordered in an extra sending unit specific to that gloshift gauge. Going to install one SU on the lift pump and the other is already mounted at the IP. Guess if ever there would be a problem with a collapsed hose then a flip of the switch and should be able to tell variances in fuel pressure. I think. 🤷😹
 
Got a starton dropping the tank.
I would have just pulled the box but its got this 5th wheel drop hitch in the middle of it. There is these ] shaped bolts thats through the floor, with the short ends of the image of the ] pointing downwards.
It still may prove easier to unbolt the hitch from the frame and still lift the box.
Will know more about that after a while.
It got cold so I called it a night and went to duh house.
Doing some thinking about that starter so I ordered in the new PM starter. Also ordered the engine wire harness.
Screw it, if I’m going in debt to fix this truck then its gonna get fixed right and alla the way. 🤷😹1730513983608.png
 
Well today I got the nerve to get out there and try attacking the rust on the cab roof of the 93 truck. sanded it all down with the new rotary sander we got, scuffed it down real good and then snagged up a quart of black rust killing paint. Got the roof all prepped and taped off from the rest of the cab. there are a couple of dents and some pitting in the sheet metal, but I just wanted to stop the rust and seal it off so it won't progress anymore. I had intended on brushing and rolling it on thick over the roof but instead I decided to try and use my HVLP gun just to see how well it would come out and how good I was at using it.

got it applied with about 3 coats before it started to drizzle some light rain. I wasn't going for a perfect job, I can always go back and do that work later on. it's on there thick enough that I can wet sand and buff if I want the front area above the windshield and above the back glass to shine.

it's some basic oil base rustolium rust killer paint in gloss black. used mineral spirits and some tractor paint hardener to mix it for the HVLP gun. I ended up getting a couple of runs at the drivers side above the windshield but I can fix that fairly easy.

after I see how well this does, I'll ether do the same for the hood or use some tractor paint on it I had bought for the other truck.

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I worked on installing some leftover items which arrived after we installed the engine. Installed new windshield wiper fluid bottle (don’t ask). Repaired and installed driver’s side battery tray. Installed new gap filler behind the bumper. Installed LED Lights, finally going away from my loved, but problematic HID lights. Installed new grill, but still need to put the turn signal lamps in (need to transfer the nylon nuts from the old grill to the new).

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Big T said:
I worked on installing some leftover items which arrived after we installed the engine. Installed new windshield wiper fluid bottle (don’t ask). Repaired and installed driver’s side battery tray. Installed new gap filler behind the bumper. Installed LED Lights, finally going away from my loved, but problematic HID lights. Installed new grill, but still need to put the turn signal lamps in (need to transfer the nylon nuts from the old grill to the new).

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I usually use the raps and dies or thread cleaners and antiseize when doing stuff like that. Things get nasty rusty here if you don't
 
jrsavoie said:
I usually use the raps and dies or thread cleaners and antiseize when doing stuff like that. Things get nasty rusty here if you don't
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I soaked the one on the red truck for over a week in an acetone/ATF mixture. Still wouldn’t come loose. Luckily since the truck is a gasser now, it doesn’t need the clamp on the driver side to be functional, I just thought it would be nice.
 
Worked ok attempting to align and raise the hood on the 93 this evening. The hood at the hinge end on both sides was sunk down a bit below the level of the fenders along with it needing to be pulled forward about a 1/4” to line up the the front fender tips.

For everyone who has done body work aligning all the hood and fender body lines. Maybe @n8in8or has some insight on this. The hood hinges on this 93 has no slotted holes to move the hood around! I ended up stacking 5 flat washers between the hood and hinge on the driver’s side and 8 stacked flat washers on the passenger side just to get the hood up level to the fenders at the back but there is no way I can see to slide it forward!!

I even tried taking the bolts out that holds the hinge at the fenders (2 bolts pointing down under where the hood attaches). Non of this looks aftermarket but I do know the hood was replaced by the PO way back.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Worked ok attempting to align and raise the hood on the 93 this evening. The hood at the hinge end on both sides was sunk down a bit below the level of the fenders along with it needing to be pulled forward about a 1/4” to line up the the front fender tips.

For everyone who has done body work aligning all the hood and fender body lines. Maybe @n8in8or has some insight on this. The hood hinges on this 93 has no slotted holes to move the hood around! I ended up stacking 5 flat washers between the hood and hinge on the driver’s side and 8 stacked flat washers on the passenger side just to get the hood up level to the fenders at the back but there is no way I can see to slide it forward!!

I even tried taking the bolts out that holds the hinge at the fenders (2 bolts pointing down under where the hood attaches). Non of this looks aftermarket but I do know the hood was replaced by the PO way back.
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I’ve never had a problem getting a hood to line up on these. Off hand I can’t think of what might be causing that issue for you.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Worked ok attempting to align and raise the hood on the 93 this evening. The hood at the hinge end on both sides was sunk down a bit below the level of the fenders along with it needing to be pulled forward about a 1/4” to line up the the front fender tips.

For everyone who has done body work aligning all the hood and fender body lines. Maybe @n8in8or has some insight on this. The hood hinges on this 93 has no slotted holes to move the hood around! I ended up stacking 5 flat washers between the hood and hinge on the driver’s side and 8 stacked flat washers on the passenger side just to get the hood up level to the fenders at the back but there is no way I can see to slide it forward!!

I even tried taking the bolts out that holds the hinge at the fenders (2 bolts pointing down under where the hood attaches). Non of this looks aftermarket but I do know the hood was replaced by the PO way back.
Click to expand...
Is there some holes that could be oval shaped to help the situation ?
Maybe the fenders dropped it they would still align with the rest of the body?
 
The engine did not get installed.
The torque convertor had not been removed from the transmission when/before the truck was pushed outside.
Truck back in, lifted the transmission, with a straight edge, measured distance from front of bell housing to the bolt lugs on the torque convertor, just about exactly 1”.
Removed the torque convertor, these things are HEAVY.
Popped the seal from the front pump, prepped the new seal to install, made a seal driver by using a hole saw through a short 2X4 block of wood then going to use a piece of pipe against the block and seal for a driver.
Poked the seal at the hole, seal is too small OD. WHAAAAAT ! ! ! !
Yup, called NAPA, the counter man checked the numbers, its for the rear output shaft. 🥺
He looks up the seal, sends us another, smaller yet.
Parts deliverer takes the old seal, returns with it. New seal will be here on Tuesday.
So I do more to prepare for the Air Dog lift pump.
Needing to get to the tank fittings to install a hose adapter to AN type and to cut the filler hose to install the regulator return hose, box gets unbolted and lifted high enough to get to the tank components.
After looking at the pipes and such from the tank sending unit, ordered in the metronome unit from Leroy Diesel.
This just does not seem to have an end to the spending. 🫣😹
And so the son that came to help, now that the engine install is on hold He worked on the tilt/lift/trim unit for his new, to him, boat.
After messing with that and determining its the electrical motor thats screwed, He is ?
A: looking on the www for a new hyddaulic motor/pump to replace the bad unit.
Or
B: screwing off on fakebook.
I should turn this into a voting poll, to be closed at 8:00pm on November the 5th. 😹😹😹
If there is someone that knows how to set up a poll, go ahead, use this picture and get a poll set up. 😹
The truck is now back out the door. Shop is shut down and I will mess with getting the Air Dog pump mounted to the frame while waiting for the sending unit thing to arrive from Leroy.
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12k is painful- but replacing say a set of injectors way down the road or just having a set rebuilt is now pocket change. Like 1/10 the cost. And even neglected the idi almost never damages a piston.

If a feller really needs for towing- or simply wants the toy- of having massive power under his right foot- you can’t compare to a dmax.

But put in the worn suspension stuff for 2k, new engine done this well for 12k, new trans built super strong for 3k, INSANE 4 speed transfer case from Atlas for 4k (2speeds for 2.5k) and rebuilt front & rear diffs for 2k. You basically double the price. $24,000 but now that ol gmt400 that is a better looking truck, better offroad approach, departure, side slope, visibility, lower center of gravity- LITERALLY every off road aspect - less rear axle hop on freeway when just daily driving.
You can end up with a far more capable truck for 99% of how everyone actually uses a truck.

I’ve a friend at work- tows a HUGE 3 axle camper. Gets upset when his group of camp buddies pull hills at 85 mph and he has to do 78 mph. He does it twice a year. Says they get 8 minutes ahead of him, so he is right now dumping 6k more into his truck to shave off 4 of those 8 minutes. Then will see how he feels after this coming trip if he will dump in another 7k for the rest of the power.
For guys like him- yeah the wazoo newest dmax would make him happy.

Being able to pump $1,800 a month into my truck would be a dream. But
Figure current interest rates- a 75,000 truck if you make a $1800 down payment then 48 months of payments so call it 49 monthly payments gets a similar truck with dmax and ally trans but less capable off road and not as good looking style.
I do admit the square body is better looking than gmt400 so that proves my opinion is unbiased! Haha.
Believe me- I have tried really hard to justify just putting the hummer back together and selling it after shiny paint job & chrome rims to use as $$ for down payment on a new dmax. IMO it just doesn’t add up.

I also considered selling hummer & doing my idea of lb7 2wd w/ rolling chassis on air bags & drop spindles with dmax/ally. Then dropping the body of a 59 caddy on there.
Would also have to pay extra for custom plates of SMOKN59 to justify the black smoke during burnouts. Haha.
Definitely have to have hidden tow hitch and turn that trunk into a rumble seat. Biggest rumble seat in the world most likely…

Can you guys believe I have these thoughts without alcohol or drugs? Must have hit my head hard at some point…
 
Will L. said:
12k is painful- but replacing say a set of injectors way down the road or just having a set rebuilt is now pocket change. Like 1/10 the cost. And even neglected the idi almost never damages a piston.

If a feller really needs for towing- or simply wants the toy- of having massive power under his right foot- you can’t compare to a dmax.

But put in the worn suspension stuff for 2k, new engine done this well for 12k, new trans built super strong for 3k, INSANE 4 speed transfer case from Atlas for 4k (2speeds for 2.5k) and rebuilt front & rear diffs for 2k. You basically double the price. $24,000 but now that ol gmt400 that is a better looking truck, better offroad approach, departure, side slope, visibility, lower center of gravity- LITERALLY every off road aspect - less rear axle hop on freeway when just daily driving.
You can end up with a far more capable truck for 99% of how everyone actually uses a truck.

I’ve a friend at work- tows a HUGE 3 axle camper. Gets upset when his group of camp buddies pull hills at 85 mph and he has to do 78 mph. He does it twice a year. Says they get 8 minutes ahead of him, so he is right now dumping 6k more into his truck to shave off 4 of those 8 minutes. Then will see how he feels after this coming trip if he will dump in another 7k for the rest of the power.
For guys like him- yeah the wazoo newest dmax would make him happy.

Being able to pump $1,800 a month into my truck would be a dream. But
Figure current interest rates- a 75,000 truck if you make a $1800 down payment then 48 months of payments so call it 49 monthly payments gets a similar truck with dmax and ally trans but less capable off road and not as good looking style.
I do admit the square body is better looking than gmt400 so that proves my opinion is unbiased! Haha.
Believe me- I have tried really hard to justify just putting the hummer back together and selling it after shiny paint job & chrome rims to use as $$ for down payment on a new dmax. IMO it just doesn’t add up.

I also considered selling hummer & doing my idea of lb7 2wd w/ rolling chassis on air bags & drop spindles with dmax/ally. Then dropping the body of a 59 caddy on there.
Would also have to pay extra for custom plates of SMOKN59 to justify the black smoke during burnouts. Haha.
Definitely have to have hidden tow hitch and turn that trunk into a rumble seat. Biggest rumble seat in the world most likely…

Can you guys believe I have these thoughts without alcohol or drugs? Must have hit my head hard at some point…
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I was going to post the final comment, but you beat me to it.

About $11K for my optimizer install, but I know what I got. New Suburbans are $80K. You can’t get a 3/4 ton, nor a V8 diesel. Any modern diesel will have DPF and EGR which have presented problems for all manufacturers, so a big pass for me. It really comes down to utility value for me and the new Optimizer 6.5 fit that bill.
 
Well the "Black Sheep" got somewhat of a face lift. Application of lipstick on a pig I guess I would call it. along with me trying to teach myself how to paint! there's more to be desired on the hood as I didn't get all the sanding marks out but it looks 10 times better than it did. also tried my hand at cutting a run in the paint too. used a razor blade and just about got it out. could use some more wet sanding but I'm not looking for show room floor results. polished the areas around the windshield and back glass but not doing the full roof.

on the hood I can still go back and fix all the sanding marks with some filler primer and block sanding along with a re-paint. maybe one day, but for now at least I git rid of all the splits in the old paint, even attempted to pull a dent in the front above the grille where the hood was dented in. used various size sockets, a block of wood and a hammer. got it enough so that vary minimal amount of bondo would be needed to make it perfect later on. The paint is too fresh to attempt wet sanding and buffing so that will happen later down the road.

But for now, it's good enough for me :) Not bad for an amateur in the back yard and on a windy day!

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