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Tune, resistors and tcc

I did look to see if they sold it separately on RA. they only show the complete pedal assembly with sensor for $307. but they do show the sensor alone with other brands. I have been told that this sensor rarely fails, maybe worth scavenging a pick a part junk yard for the whole thing to try out vs spending that kind of cash for the GM part. chances the junk yard part will be working fine are good
Plus it looks like this sensor is the same for 94-99 with a DS4 IP

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In the fuel system red metals: copper and brass are NOT to be used. Replace them asap.

Aluminum is the bottom of the acceptable level, use it if there is no other option. This is since the addition of ethanol / methanol. Those and certain bio microbes can actually pit the aluminum and carry raw aluminum downstream. So...
Then cast iron and galvanized steel is next up on the list. Better than aluminum, except now instead of aluminum-oxide is possible iron-oxide aka rust. You have to get the water in there to start rust but if you have ethanol/ methanol the you will have water in there.
The contamination and damage issue is ever so slightly less from rust than from aluminum-oxide, and rust is easier for a filter to catch. So those two tiny reasons are why they are better than aluminum.
Yes -if you are wondering “But my ip is aluminum” and it is in a slow loosing battle to those fuels. Any of you that have worn out several ip from high mileage noticed they just don’t last as long - this is part of why. Also why some areas have it last longer than others, amount and quaint of alcohol, type of bio base -Peanut oil is like acid to it. Not like you see it eat it-but is just horribly faster and it gums up bad. (But sure is astes good with jelly!)

so now we are where I push for: Stainless steel. 304 and top of the chart is 316.
this is what will outlast the engine, truck, and probably you. Either is fine, don’t pay a lot more for 316 over 304, either is fine for our use.

Many are not familiar with stainless, a few things:
Magnet doesn’t stick to stainless- wrong. The more you work stainless it will become more magnet. Test yourself with scrap piece of tubing by bending it back and forth, shaping with hammer, etc.
you can’t tell difference or 304/316- it is a chemical make up difference with more moly in it and unless you have a special analyzer- all the “tests” can be disproven. 316 is hogher pressure, more chemically resistant, etc- but what we deal with- 304 easily does everyt

Important part: do NOT use regular ptfe tape. The threads are sharper and harder and will cut the tape allowing leaks easier. Use grey stainless with ptfe tape or better yet use stainless steel pipe dope/sealer.
Quality counts on stainless steel fittings. Cheaper company will make worse threads, not as polished flare fittings, etc. stainless does require more torque to tighten and that makes it harder to seal, so imperfect threads and seal faces show up easier.

You will spend more time/money up front, but pays off long term.
 
I happened across these by chance, super affordable for stainless


I use half inch barbs because with barbed fittings more often than not the barb size is the OUTSIDE diameter. So a 3/8 barb will have an inner diameter of 1/4". And 3/8" fuel hose is flexible enough to squeeze over a half inch barb, been that way on my rig for years.
 
Will L. said:
In the fuel system red metals: copper and brass are NOT to be used. Replace them asap.

Aluminum is the bottom of the acceptable level, use it if there is no other option. This is since the addition of ethanol / methanol. Those and certain bio microbes can actually pit the aluminum and carry raw aluminum downstream. So...
Then cast iron and galvanized steel is next up on the list. Better than aluminum, except now instead of aluminum-oxide is possible iron-oxide aka rust. You have to get the water in there to start rust but if you have ethanol/ methanol the you will have water in there.
The contamination and damage issue is ever so slightly less from rust than from aluminum-oxide, and rust is easier for a filter to catch. So those two tiny reasons are why they are better than aluminum.
Yes -if you are wondering “But my ip is aluminum” and it is in a slow loosing battle to those fuels. Any of you that have worn out several ip from high mileage noticed they just don’t last as long - this is part of why. Also why some areas have it last longer than others, amount and quaint of alcohol, type of bio base -Peanut oil is like acid to it. Not like you see it eat it-but is just horribly faster and it gums up bad. (But sure is astes good with jelly!)

so now we are where I push for: Stainless steel. 304 and top of the chart is 316.
this is what will outlast the engine, truck, and probably you. Either is fine, don’t pay a lot more for 316 over 304, either is fine for our use.

Many are not familiar with stainless, a few things:
Magnet doesn’t stick to stainless- wrong. The more you work stainless it will become more magnet. Test yourself with scrap piece of tubing by bending it back and forth, shaping with hammer, etc.
you can’t tell difference or 304/316- it is a chemical make up difference with more moly in it and unless you have a special analyzer- all the “tests” can be disproven. 316 is hogher pressure, more chemically resistant, etc- but what we deal with- 304 easily does everyt

Important part: do NOT use regular ptfe tape. The threads are sharper and harder and will cut the tape allowing leaks easier. Use grey stainless with ptfe tape or better yet use stainless steel pipe dope/sealer.
Quality counts on stainless steel fittings. Cheaper company will make worse threads, not as polished flare fittings, etc. stainless does require more torque to tighten and that makes it harder to seal, so imperfect threads and seal faces show up easier.

You will spend more time/money up front, but pays off long term.
Click to expand...
My factory inlet barbs 0n the IP are brass, my J.D. tractors have multiple brass fittings.?

There is one Stainless steel that is magnetic, (Ferritic), it is a cheaper type of stainless. I was unaware 304 and 316 could be made magnetic by working them. Could it be residual left by the hammer?
 
It wasn’t until around 2010-2012 the entire world discovered the problems of certain bios and alcohols having issues with red metals and certain mixes of aluminum. Mfrs didn’t all react as fast as the info came out. As each mfr learned it by themselves they didn’t share the info with others. It’s like a football game- you can do things good to win, and you can also win by the other team making mistakes. When GM, john deere, etc quits making those mistakes- up to them.

YES, the working of any metal that generates reactive magnetism stays with it until temperature alters it again. Unless it is some specific item, they wouldn’t spend efforts to remove any of it.
 
@Will L. are we looking at issues over time with the IP since it's aluminum? I'm sure the housings were coated with something durring the manufacturing process though.

I am wondering if one can seperate the ethanols from diesel like you can in gasoline. with gasoline it just takes a bit of water stirred in, bam all the ethanol falls to the bottom and can be seperated. I actually did this for some lawn equipment taking 5 gallons of gas stirring in a small amount if water, then pouring off the gas. worked good and the lawn equipment seemed to like it. I even used the ethanol in an alcohol burner!
 
The problem is the ethanol is required toget the flashpoint to the correct point.
Ever run your truck on kerosene- Loss of power? same thing here.
You will have late detonation, lost power and lost mpg. Unless you replace it with a higher grade fuel to compensate. Basically re distilling to proper fuel spec.

No coating inside the ip. The oxidation of the aluminum just speeds up it wear. Our injectors absorb more wear because of the aluminum getting into the fuel from the ip. The more aluminum in the system, the harder it is on them. The more aluminum upstream of the ip means the more wear on the ip.

The aluminum has the least amount of impact. Like cutting back on salt in your diet. Keep eating 3,000 calories a day- tons of processed sugars, no exercise- and the fact that you don’t add a bunch of salt to your popcorn won’t make a difference. But adding everything together makes it all work better. If getting a fitting in aluminum is easy and a serious pain to find it in steel- I wouldn’t panic, use the aluminum. But the red metals make a big impact quickly.
 
that would make sense. the only red metal in our trucks is the drain T that the fuel never goes back into the system. the IP has steel fittings in and out. I suppose I need to order some stainless or steel fittings to replace the brass on the remote filter.
 
No, 2006/2007 is when ulsd came out. That is what pushed the alcohols in the fuel.
All the things done to achieve ulsd is what generates the problem. Gm might have known about the red metals earlier for the new fuel- but surely not in the 1990s. There was no reason to test for that.
 
Any idea where that ground strap goes? It's under the driver's side of the bed. Forward of the wheel well. It's bolted to bottom of the bed but other end broke off from somewhere.
 
Ok. Soooo. Blew some tires... That was fun.. especially when no spares on board...BUT..I DISCOVERED SOMETHING... While changing the front tires (truck up on jack) I tried turning the rotors by hand...the passenger side one turned really hard.. turning forward and even harder try to turning it in reverse... Driver side one turned a little easier but not much...
I sprayed the outside faces of the rotors with pb blaster lubricant. ( Not the rust buster). That made them turn alot easier like they should... Then tonight my brother was charging one of the rear driverside tires for me . he said my brakes are dragging on those wheels.. not sure about passenger side rear caus haven't has that side of rear off the ground.... So my question is why are all my brakes dragging.. I've said in the past that sometimes the truck feels like the brakes are dragging or like I'm hauling a heavy trailer... Then 10 seconds later it's running fine and does not feel like it's dragging at all.... Is there any possibility that something is causing it to drag at some point in times and not others such as could the ABS be f****** up... Or could the wheel sensors cause this (although I'm not sure if they're even hooked up..)... If you remember all my problems with the truck started when I let an idiot do a brake job on it... He also did the filter and fluid on the tranny which at one time I thought could have been problem but since replacing the tranny myself the problem is still happening so I'm kind of inclined to eliminate that... The only thing about him doing the brake job that stands out to me, is that he broke the rear driver side metal line and because he did not have a piece handy that was their right diameter he used a smaller diameter piece to replace it.. not sure if that could have done anything or not.. it just seems awful funny that all the brakes seem like they drag at times and other times they don't.
 
Interesting. I'm no brake expert, let alone computer guy but I know one of the only ways to mess with the ABS module is with a Tech2 scanner. I thought air in the lines would only make the brakes squishy, not gripping/ dragging as you describe. Is your ABS light on at all?

I will say from personal experience that bad brake hoses (rubber ones in the front, there's one rubber hose in the rear that 2 hard lines go to each tire from) can collapse internally and act as a check valve. I had a front brake hose do this one time, collapsed rubber internally didn't allow the caliper to return so it was suck out gripping the rotor. Totally toasted the caliper and rotor.

Don't know when the front and rear rubber hoses were replaced on your rig, but if old parts that would be the cheapest place to start in terms of replacement parts. The hard line diameters should all be correct size, replacing the smaller line you mentioned is also a relatively cheap and easy fix. Others will hopefully chime in as I'm not sure what the signs of a failing hydroboost are or anything else in the system that would point to the symptoms you describe.
 
Yeah, if the idiot who busted that rear metal line also just let the calipers hang off of those old hoses while changing out pads, it is quite possible if those are the original hoses that they tore internally and are now acting like check valves and are holding residual pressure on the caliper piston(s). Running a whole new, correct brake hard line for that rear is a must. That smaller diameter section will also slow the reverse flow of brake fluid when you release the brake pedal as the retract springs on the shoes force the pistons back in on the brake cylinder, so one side will still be dragging longer than the other when you let off the brakes.
 
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