• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

Daylight driving lights are not required here in VA. Are they required in CA or you just like them?

The USPS ran them back in the day and based on some dubious numbers that generated the US DOT later required US mfgs to implement them. States can require them to work on new cars.
 
88gmctruck said:
The GM fog airdam was not available with a fog and towhook combination, it's one or the other. Although I think some rectangular fogs down there would look much better than trying to get some in the bumper. Would look close to factory.

As i'm sure you recall, I ran lights in both my airdams. 88 has factory foglight airdam with factory brackets and KC LX2 fog housing. The 99 had a cut towhook airdam and Dick Cepek dual beam lights.
P1100505.jpg

2011-08-21_20-00-24_743.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats it.

A person could cut round holes too.
 
88gmctruck said:
The GM fog airdam was not available with a fog and towhook combination, it's one or the other. Although I think some rectangular fogs down there would look much better than trying to get some in the bumper. Would look close to factory.

As i'm sure you recall, I ran lights in both my airdams. 88 has factory foglight airdam with factory brackets and KC LX2 fog housing. The 99 had a cut towhook airdam and Dick Cepek dual beam lights.
P1100505.jpg

2011-08-21_20-00-24_743.jpg
Click to expand...

Sure, problem is; the air dam comes off in the winter to mount the Fisher minuet mount snow plow frame.

So almost half the year I'd have lights under the bumper with nothing around them. Not a fan of that.

I know, I'm being fussy.

Im still considering my options and the under bumper is one....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
L98TPI said:
Daylight driving lights are not required here in VA. Are they required in CA or you just like them?

The USPS ran them back in the day and based on some dubious numbers that generated the US DOT later required US mfgs to implement them. States can require them to work on new cars.
Click to expand...

I already said its legislated in Canada.

I'm not a big fan, but I am cognizant of the value of DRL.

People can say what they will, daytime running lights are effective.

I've seen it myself many times. Two cars side by side in the Trans Canada, the one with DRL is visible miles before the one without. Put the sun behind them and it's an even bigger difference.

Besides, cars that came with DRL factory won't pass mvi unless they work.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OK, I don't do this often but here goes.....

I'm having trouble deciding where to mount square lights should I go that way.

I took Davids picture and scaled it to the same size as my picture. I then copied over the fog lights so the size is correct for the KC lx2 lights (3x5).

Here's the things I have to consider:

it has to look good (duh) and it has to be practical when I remove the air dam for winter snow plowing.

Photoshop pics:

lights in bumper

f654d50abumper.jpg


Lights in air dam

f654d50dam.jpg


The cooling hole on the drivers side is really there in metal, the passenger side is photoshoped the proper size for purposes of this comparison. basically, so it won't throw off the visuals.

I like the lights in the dam a bit more I think, but I like the protection and no fuss installation in the bumper (well, I like a little bit of customizing also).

remember: these also are going to serve as my daytime driving lights, so removing them is not an option throughout the year.

The bumper is going out for re-chroming once I'm done anyways, so no worries about fabricating/welding the bumper. Cutting and welding in a proper opening is not a problem either.

I just can't decide except that I'm pretty sure I'll be buying the KC lites.

Opinions and points either way?
 
The more I look at them side by side, the more I lean towards and "in bumper" mounting for the looks and utility of them.......









































Oh yeah, one more thing; I just bought a set of the KC lx2 fogs online a couple minutes ago so I'm going with the 3x5's.........:thumbsup:
 
ak diesel driver said:
if you put them in the air dam you have to remove them for the plow? if so bumper
Click to expand...

Well, yes and no.

The air dam has to come off to mount the fisher plow frame. That leaves the lights hanging out under the bumper all alone.

The plow goes on and off to do my driveway, so I'll end up driving around most of the time with the lights hanging in the breeze below the bumper.

I just don't like that look.

Am I being fussy?

Yup.

"I may not know art, but I know what I like....."
 
NVW said:
I would go for the bumper as well, I like both but the bumper is permanent.
Click to expand...

Sure is!

The lights are a little better protected also.

Although, this is primarily a street driven truck so lights in the air dam would likely never be a clearance issue anyways.

Maybe no-so-much in a front end collision. Probably a little less protected that way.

Of course, I've got bigger problems than broken lenses if I whack the bumper bad enough to actually get into the bumper mounted lights....
 
Yes, either 2 or 4 lights.
I had considered building my own bumper at one time (king ranch style) and had planed on making metal covers that would slide out of the way when lights were on. Not sure how to accomplish it, it was just a plan that never came about.
 
After a little bit of metal work, the shifter is in.

Park position:

0b4b436d.jpg


D:

c23763d5.jpg


Now, that drive position looks really low. I though so when I first shifted it. Then, I tried to use it:

270b0390.jpg


With my arm on the center arm rest, my hand falls naturally right on the shifter and all the buttons are right at my finger tips. The downward angle and thick triangle shape shape of the lever end are right were your hand wants to be. Very very comfy!

All my gauges and dash are visible with the shifter lower and it's not in the way of anything.

I can also finally see those damned 4x4 buttons while in D! :thumbsup:

The shifter action is much better with the slightly longer lever and the big beefy (compared to the GMT400 shifter) end is very comfortable in your hand.

Like it so far.

I probably won't even rework it to raise the shifter handle in D. It just works better. Maybe not as nice visually with it that low in D, but function trumps form in this case.

Back to working on the tap shifter programming....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top