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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

Made my selection:

winnersmudge.jpg


winner-smudge-up-no-lights.jpg


Later on, there'll be removable lights mounted on the truck cap also:

winupsmudgelights.jpg

On the truck cap because it's an easy mounting, no holes in the cab roof and easily removed. The light's will be on a quick release bar and a cannon plug connector. I've already go the lights, I've had 4 100W driving lights in storage for a while now.

Not in front of the grill to keep the airflow nice and fast/smooth through the rad. Removable because I don't always need them and the truck would be too tall to get into the garage with them. I need them because I often have to drive before sunup and after sunrise. Where i currently live, you need big burners when outside town limits on the highway.

Black as pitch and Moose everywhere...over 750 moose vehicle collisions last year alone...
 
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To give an Idea of where I'm going with the truck, here's some 'chops (remember, I'm no pro at it so be gentle!).

Without the late night runners:

rockerpodnolights.jpg


With the lights installed:

rockerpodlights.jpg


Starting to look a little bit overdone, but this is a form follows function kinda deal....
 
forgot to mention; yes, dual alternator upgrade is in the works


I'm running out of space to mount engine driven accessories!

Still have to mount a plow pump and I want an air compressor on there too......;)
 
Couple things. Some Cummins engines had a alt/power steering pump combo. Might be possible to run one of those?? Not sure what specs you would need for a hyd pump.
Also, if your going for max light output you might consider some HIDs in a pair of the parking light slots. I did a short write up on it, but it seemed that most pepole thought it would be blinding (and it would) because the bulb is un shielded but in your case it could work and wont take up any extra room.
http://www.pmdcable.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=15
 
Nah, I'm already HID in the low beams with Acura TSX projector housings.

The spots are to fill in above the low beams and off to the sides of the road.

HID's in the parking lights would be bright to look at, but wouldn't have any worthwhile projection ability to add anything to the beam spread 300-400 yards down the road...which is where I need it.

Now, I do have a second set of ballasts and capsules that may find their way into the high beams or the roof lights.

There's only so much time available in the week though....
 
Thinking about taking the interior in a more "upscale" direction:

Untitled-3.jpg


After all; it is where you spend your time in the vehicle and look at all the time so why not have it comfortable, functional and nice looking?

I've always liked a bit of wood trim as long as it's tasteful and not overdone. The GMT400 yukon/denali is about where my limit would be. Tiny bit on the doors, small trim ring on the dash and the wood wheel would be the limit. Maybe a touch on the console, but mine is custom and I don't think it would look right.

But still undecided on that wheel as of right now.

I do like the plethora of buttons on the wheel and the silver painted sections. The heated wheel function would also be jammy where I live, assuming I could make it work that is.

I'm just uncertain what it would look like in a GMT 400 interior.

Time for some photochoppin'.......
 
Steering wheel is ordered:

Untitled-3.jpg


Don't know if it will bolt on or not, figured I'd buy it and just commit.

If worse comes to worse I'll cut out the center section and TIG in the center section from a spare gmt400 wheel I've got lying around.

I've already got a clock spring gathering dust in the garage.

The air bag is no problem, mines a 2500 and doesn't have one. I'll just make up a nice leather or suede filler piece with a matching GMC logo emblem.

Then it'll be sorting out the buttons and wheel heat....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Another quick Photochop:

wood-interior.jpg


That's about it for wood accents I think. I like wood in an interior, but it has to be applied in just the right spots and not overdone.

Some black suede, gray leather and maybe some silver/chrome here and there to pull some elements together and call it done.

If only it way as easy to build as it was to photochop........yeesh.
 
Just read through the last few pages since my last visit, all I can say is wow. You do good, quick work!

What is that wheel out of?
 
Still preparing for the front mount intercooler.

Looking to increase the pressure differential at the radiator.

So:

hood-extractors.jpg


Hood extractors from a Trans Am GTA.

That's a quick photochop but they look pretty good to my jaundiced eyes, so I grabbed a set off ebay for 37 bucks shipped.

I'll have to do some testing with the Magnehelic to find the best compromise between lowest pressure and an acceptable appearance.

We'll see how it plays out....
 
what about the vents that paveltolz has?

Right idea, wrong execution. Good for in traffic or low speed work, not so much for "at speed".

For example, hood pressure readings on an average econobox:

hood press.jpg

..............................Leading Edge......Front Third.....Midpoint......Rear
Above pressure.............-0.5..................-0.3..............0.1.........+0.6
Below pressure................0.1...................0.1..............0.3...........0.4
Difference.......................0.6...................0.4.............0.2..........-0.2

You can see how a merc hood reacts to aerodynamic loading:

hood merc.jpg

The low pressure is at the breakover for the hood line. That's with a laid back grill. The upright nose on the GMT400 should make the low pressure area larger, in both size and pressure drop.

The study of bluff bodies in aerodynamics ia actually quite fascinating. Very often, the results are nothing like you would expect.

This exercise is about cooling, which means pressure differential between the front and rear of the radiator. Putting vents where high pressure air will enter the engine bay is working against what you want to accomplish. Other plans are to seal the hood openings, shroud the entrance into the radiator, and perhaps some underbody work. Just an fyi; pressure differential is why a lower air damn help in engine cooling. It's not because it forces more air into the rad, it's because it makes a low pressure area right behind it that draws air out of the engine bay....

Once I do some testing with a magnehelic gauge, it should become a little clearer where the best placement will be on a GMT400 chassis.
 
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