My 2005 Yukon XL

[dbrannon79]

From what I recall, once it's been cleaned and reinstalled, you will need to connect the scanner and reset the ECM so it will "re-learn" the engine. I was told this a few years ago that the ECM will over time compensate for the build up and adjust how it runs. I had one that was so bad that after I cleaned it, the engine wouldn't run right. kept stalling at idle. even though there was no codes on the ECM, after resetting it, it ran like it was new again!

 

[DieselSlug]

Be sure to clean out any ports or jets in the throttle body. also in the area of the IAT valve.

Only port in the throttle seems to be PCV valve and fuel tank purge line. Really the most simple one I've messed with!

My understanding the IAT on the 5.3l is in the MAF housing. I actually cleaned the MAF with proper cleaner at couple weeks back, it was super easy to do at the time.

From what I recall, once it's been cleaned and reinstalled, you will need to connect the scanner and reset the ECM so it will "re-learn" the engine. I was told this a few years ago that the ECM will over time compensate for the build up and adjust how it runs. I had one that was so bad that after I cleaned it, the engine wouldn't run right. kept stalling at idle. even though there was no codes on the ECM, after resetting it, it ran like it was new again!

You are correct, since I don't have a proper bi-directional scanner I will need to force a reset by disconnecting power for a while. It will eventually learn on its own, but with a reset it should learn faster.

Times like these, I wish I just got a gmt400 for simplicity! I'd really like a late 80s Suburban, but that's non-existent here. And I couldn't bring myself to drive it in the winter.

 

[jrsavoie]

Only port in the throttle seems to be PCV valve and fuel tank purge line. Really the most simple one I've messed with!

My understanding the IAT on the 5.3l is in the MAF housing. I actually cleaned the MAF with proper cleaner at couple weeks back, it was super easy to do at the time.

You are correct, since I don't have a proper bi-directional scanner I will need to force a reset by disconnecting power for a while. It will eventually learn on its own, but with a reset it should learn faster.

Times like these, I wish I just got a gmt400 for simplicity! I'd really like a late 80s Suburban, but that's non-existent here. And I couldn't bring myself to drive it in the winter.

That was my favorite years of Suburbans

 

[DieselSlug]

Well, I totally forgot to update this but we made it 1,100 miles to FL in the Yukon.

The throttle body cleaning and power supply (disconnect neg. Terminal) removal didn't solve the idle issue. Just for the heck of it I then replaced the No. 5 cylinder coil pack with one I got from the junkyard. Since I did it has been idling great!

I ended up replacing the passenger hub assembly with a TTX unit, it was roasted!



I also discovered a steering issue on the last onceover. The steering box output shaft has side to side play. All other components seemed tight. We just ran it for now but it creates an annoying steering vibrations especially on rough roads. What steering gears are everyone using? I haven't had any luck with Cardone reman. Most remains are around $225. I see new units that range more like $425. Huge step here, but i obviously don't want junk. I did see a rebuild kit, but not sure how difficult that is? Another option is the junkyard at $50. No OEM options available anymore

 

[dbrannon79]

Both of my trucks are suffering from the same issue with the side to side play in the sector shaft in the box. I had rebuilt the one in the 95 which helped for a short time until the play returned. after doing all kinds of research on them I found out that over time the gear box housing stretches. I had taken another box I pulled from the junkyard and pulled it apart, knocked out the pitman seal and bearing, new bearing in and slid in the shaft only to find out the slop was there still.

the only way to fix would be to find a machine shop that would cut a greaseable bronze bushing to replace the roller bearing or cut and machine a sleeve insert for the housing. the older boxes from the 60's and some 70's all used a bushing instead of a bearing. there is room in the housing to have a taller bushing that the height of the roller bearing that is used in them now.

all of the Cardone reman boxes will have this same issue. when I went on my researching spree I did find out that Red Top and others are all reman units, I don't know if they do any machining to the housings for this issue though.

this is one of the pit-falls on the GMT-400 and 800 platform. One thing I would like to see for our rigs is a direct conversion to a rack and pinion setup where we could DIY it from some other model we can find in the junk yard!

 

[DieselSlug]

Both of my trucks are suffering from the same issue with the side to side play in the sector shaft in the box. I had rebuilt the one in the 95 which helped for a short time until the play returned. after doing all kinds of research on them I found out that over time the gear box housing stretches. I had taken another box I pulled from the junkyard and pulled it apart, knocked out the pitman seal and bearing, new bearing in and slid in the shaft only to find out the slop was there still.

the only way to fix would be to find a machine shop that would cut a greaseable bronze bushing to replace the roller bearing or cut and machine a sleeve insert for the housing. the older boxes from the 60's and some 70's all used a bushing instead of a bearing. there is room in the housing to have a taller bushing that the height of the roller bearing that is used in them now.

all of the Cardone reman boxes will have this same issue. when I went on my researching spree I did find out that Red Top and others are all reman units, I don't know if they do any machining to the housings for this issue though.

this is one of the pit-falls on the GMT-400 and 800 platform. One thing I would like to see for our rigs is a direct conversion to a rack and pinion setup where we could DIY it from some other model we can find in the junk yard!

This is the main reason I want a new cast unit and not reman. Still need to see if my unit is the 3 or 4 bolt cover.

 

[DieselSlug]

Confirmed 3 bolt housing today on my daily fluid inspection. We are leaving FL early Saturday. Supposedly back home is getting hit with "feet" of snow today though tomorrow. Fingers crossed it's clear for our return Saturday evening. May have to pull in the drive and hook the plow up before unloading.

 

[Husker6.5]

Confirmed 3 bolt housing today on my daily fluid inspection. We are leaving FL early Saturday. Supposedly back home is getting hit with "feet" of snow today though tomorrow. Fingers crossed it's clear for our return Saturday evening. May have to pull in the drive and hook the plow up before unloading.

Better hope you can get into the drive, first!

 

[DieselSlug]

We made it back last night. Just under 2,700 miles, round trip. Winds were crazy the entire drive, and with the slop in the steering made it less than enjoyable. Also had a CEL come on for P0420, which is disappointing as the converters are only 3 or 4 years old. I am assuming the No. 6 injector ordeal may have damaged the converter? I bet this was like that for a long time, maybe even a year or two.

Our driveway was full of snow with a few 3 foot drifts but we made it through. Slapped the plow on the next morning and cleared it.

 

[DieselSlug]

More snow, plowed the drive tonight as well as the in-laws drive. Very drifty due to winds!

 

[DieselSlug]

Snow continues. This was yesterday AM:


Traveled to the in-laws to clear their drive. Starting to have an issue with the turn signal not blinking. It will sometimes stay solid on the dash, and sometimes not illuminate at all. Was happening soley to a left turn which made me think stalk switch. But then yesterday a right hand signal did it as well. I need to research more but I am guessing the relay or stalk switch is failing. It is an intermittent issue.

Had to plow again this morning. Pic taken after I got into the company truck.


I had a weird situation this AM. Was down at the end of the driveway pushing a bank back and the Yukon died on me, like someone shut it off. I put it in neutral and it restarted with no hesitation. I was on edge finishing the rest of the driveway in a manner not to have it die in the road if it happened again. But finished the job with no further issue. I got to thinking today I may have hit the key with the plow controller in my hand and shifting into reverse. It's the only cause I can think of, but will keep an eye on it. No new CEL, still have bank 2 converter performance, but that shouldn't do it.

Really think the stall was cause by me.

 

[Husker6.5]

Do your auxilary headlights mounted above the blade also have turn signals with them? If so, the issue could very well be in the connector to those lights or the harness.

 

[dbrannon79]

My first thought was the flasher. ether under too much load from the plow lights or it's internal circuit or contacts sticking.

 

[DieselSlug]

Do your auxilary headlights mounted above the blade also have turn signals with them? If so, the issue could very well be in the connector to those lights or the harness.

Yes they do.

My first thought was the flasher. ether under too much load from the plow lights or it's internal circuit or contacts sticking.

It actually happens with the plow off too. Had to remove it for a longer road trip (since I still have cooling issues with the plow on). I attended some YouTube educational classes and it looks to be common and the flasher is the culprit. Quick swap out of the flasher 10-pin unit and we should be back to business. I have a new one ordered that will allow me to change to LED bulbs when the time comes to eliminate hyperflash as well.