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My 2005 Yukon XL

dbrannon79 said:
How much time do you have until the needed inspection? maybe look into replacement o2 sensor, if and once it clears all checks on the ECM, go for an early inspection and get that over with!
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In NYS you have to renew inspection by the 1st of the following month of expiry, on an annual basis. So my sticker is 02/25, essentially a month and a half to pass a new inspection.

B2S2 had a code and I replaced about 1.5 years ago. B1S2 was replaced just this past summer for an O2 code as well. So they are newer GM Genuine units.
MrMarty51 said:
QuadStar Tuning recommended to Me the Autel Maxi200 ALDL adapter for My 2000 6.5 diesel truck.
I got it through Amazon about $65.00 IIRC.
while getting it setup I had to choose which brand of vehicle I would be using it on. For obvious reason I picked GM.
Installed the app on My phone and it functions flawlessly.
Capable of doing resets, tire monitor systems, Oil change warning, etc.
After replacing the hubs, rotors, calipers, etc on My 2000, having problems getting the brakes to bleed through the ABS.
This little device is capable of doing the 4WAL ABS brake bleed procedure too.
It will read every sensor thats connected in tune with the ECM of My 2000 Chevy K3500, it also reads all the sensors on the wifeys 08 Malibu too so its not stuck with just the truck.
Does the entire array of live data and freeze frame functions too.
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I actually did a bunch of research and settled on an Innova SD35 tablet Wednesday night that was availible on the shelf at AutoZone. It is supposed to handle OBD2, Trans, TPMS, SRS, and ABS.
 
Finally got the 99-02 wiper arms on. Anybody in the snow belt that has a 03-06 GMC needs to do this. They make a wiper arm puller, but I couldn't find one locally yesterday. Just used my HF 2lb slide hammer. Got the job done but I am sure the proper tool is easier.
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Sorry to you 03-06 Chevy guys as this won't work with the cateyes.
 
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DieselSlug said:
Finally got the 99-02 wiper arms on. Anybody in the snow belt that has a 03-06 GMC needs to do this. They make a wiper arm puller, but I couldn't find one locally yesterday. Just used my HF 2lb slide hammer. Got the job done but I am sure the proper tool is easier.
View attachment 92372

Sorry to you 03-06 Chevy guys as this won't work with the cateyes.
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I have one of those tools. Comes in mighty handy in such situations.
 
DieselSlug said:
Finally got the 99-02 wiper arms on. Anybody in the snow belt that has a 03-06 GMC needs to do this. They make a wiper arm puller, but I couldn't find one locally yesterday. Just used my HF 2lb slide hammer. Got the job done but I am sure the proper tool is easier.
View attachment 92372

Sorry to you 03-06 Chevy guys as this won't work with the cateyes.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Definitely worth doing. I’ve done this to both of our 04 Yukons. Thankfully the 2000 z71 came with them from the factory.
 
Ive been dealing with a temperature issue. Specifically, the Yukon takes forever to heat up in the winter and will run down the road at 130 to 140-degrees on a cold day on the highway.

Swapped out the thermostat today. Got the coolant drained down and it didnt look bad, still the DexCool stuff which was good to see. The termostat neck was a bear to get off as they sealed it with some type of goop that hardened up. Uneccesary on an o-ring seal. The old thermostat was a 187 degree unit per the embossed numbers and the rubber internal is very cracked and dry-rotted looking. However upon inspection it doesnt look "stuck" open. Not entirely sure what the heck was going on here.

The new thermostat is supposed to be a 187 degree as well, Got it installed and no leaks. Filled up the system but thinking I may have an air bubble stuck in it. These cooling systems with the remote degas bottle seem like a bastard to burp all the air out. I let the truck get to 190 at idle and topped the coolant to just above full in the bottle. Took it for a ride and it seems to run warmer than normal per my ScanGuage II. I saw temps ranging from 200 to 206 degrees for the drive of 55MPH roads with an abient temp of 48 degrees. I went about 6 miles. I would have hoped to see closer to 190 in temps but maybe there is a bubble in there? When I got back the degas bottle had a little less collant in it, but still not enough to add more.
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Best way I’ve found to purge the air from these systems….
Top off reservoir til it doesn’t take any more.
Start vehicle and as coolant level drops keep adding until the level sits just over the middle of the tank. Cap it and let it idle to 185-190 depending on thermostat. Keep in mind a 187 thermostat just means it’s fully open by 187. In reality it starts opening about 10 degrees before that - maybe more.
One you hit operating temp shut it down and walk away for 2+ hours. Clean up all your tools, etc.
come back check reservoir. Fill to full mark. Replace cap and start and idle to 185-190 again. Once temp reached, shut it down, wait 2 hours. Then check it again and fill to full mark. Now you should be able to drive it and keep an eye on that level over the next few days and only add coolant after the engine has completely cooled. The system is designed to purge air on its own into the reservoir and replace it with coolant from that bottle, hence showing a lower coolant level. It may take several full cold to hot cycles over the next few days to completely purge the air.


I’m sure there’s other, better, smarter ways to accomplish this. But this works for me for the last 25 years.
 
BigDogYJ said:
Best way I’ve found to purge the air from these systems….
Top off reservoir til it doesn’t take any more.
Start vehicle and as coolant level drops keep adding until the level sits just over the middle of the tank. Cap it and let it idle to 185-190 depending on thermostat. Keep in mind a 187 thermostat just means it’s fully open by 187. In reality it starts opening about 10 degrees before that - maybe more.
One you hit operating temp shut it down and walk away for 2+ hours. Clean up all your tools, etc.
come back check reservoir. Fill to full mark. Replace cap and start and idle to 185-190 again. Once temp reached, shut it down, wait 2 hours. Then check it again and fill to full mark. Now you should be able to drive it and keep an eye on that level over the next few days and only add coolant after the engine has completely cooled. The system is designed to purge air on its own into the reservoir and replace it with coolant from that bottle, hence showing a lower coolant level. It may take several full cold to hot cycles over the next few days to completely purge the air.


I’m sure there’s other, better, smarter ways to accomplish this. But this works for me for the last 25 years.
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This is about what I figured. I miss the old days of radiator caps on the radiator!
 
Something I have also learned on these newer units. when there is a lower temp stat installed, the engine computer will adjust fuel and timing trying to raise the temp. so if it wants 195+ and there is a lower stat installed you will loose fuel economy and some performance due to the ECM trying to warm the engine constantly. one other thing is I have seen a lot of aftermarket stats no work correctly. seen it many times where a fella will go through several from the auto parts store and finally end up getting one from the dealer that would solve the issue. seen this on both GM and Dodge.

Last but not least. I know your rig calls for dexcool, but if at all possible, dump that corrosive stuff and flush. pour in the old green coolant and it will keep your engine happier.
 
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