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My 2005 Yukon XL

So I've still been struggling with a Bose sound system issue. It's like no bass, at all. Been that way since I bought it years ago now.

I had a revelation about a YouTube video I saw about bypassing the factory bose system by unplugging a gray connector in the dash, and plugging that directly into the HU instead of the green connector. I remember seeing a empty female gray plug back there. The PO must have been doing some wizardry in there.

So today I hooked it up correctly while installing my new LED capable flasher as I was having intermittent turn signal issues. Now I have no sound, but the HU seems to be working. No door chime either. Now my focus is on the amp. Sounds like this is a stupid complex system and all of my inoperable functions go through it. Lots of people say to bypass and get aftermarket for better sound, but I am OK with stock. I just want stock back.

Luckily I have a spare JY unit to try. Daylight ran out so will have to do it some other time.
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Well the multi year long mystery has been solved. Here is my assumption. The bose amp failed. The PO bypassed the amp and sub by swapping the 24 pin male connectors behind the radio. Which is how you put in a cheap aftermarket system i guess.

Today I temporarily plugged in my JY amp. And we have full sound! Bass is there now with a much louder sounds. I feel so dumb, yet so accomplished after this. I originally swapped the amp and sub over a year ago with JY units, but when there was no change I swapped the original units back. If the wires weren't messed with I would have solved the issue right then and there. I was on the right track!
 
Save on your old amp, there might be a fix someone posted on where you could do a repair on it if this is a common issue. similar to how a fix was posted on the ac/heater controls for the compressor not working. It would be interesting if you could simply bridge a solder joint or swap a resistor or diode and make it work again. this would give you a spare working unit for the future!
 
Save on your old amp, there might be a fix someone posted on where you could do a repair on it if this is a common issue. similar to how a fix was posted on the ac/heater controls for the compressor not working. It would be interesting if you could simply bridge a solder joint or swap a resistor or diode and make it work again. this would give you a spare working unit for the future!
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Once I get it out of its cave (a bit of a job!) We will crack it open and see what it looks like. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon.

Most likely would got get another at the JY for $15. Worse part is getting them out!
 
Got the JY unit installed. All is well. I really did think about future me. When I swapped it prior I took the console out, which is a process needing the front seats lifted. I never put the inaccessible rear bolts in it. Only the front bolts. I am welcome. Made this a 15 min project.
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I don't see a visual issue with the old unit, but it obviously has an ailment.
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Just for some shenanigans you outta try just plugging it in and see if you get sound. could have been a connection issue.
 
I had a similar problem but in reverse when I first bought my '98 K2500 Burb with the factory AM/FM/Cass/CD head unit and the far rear ceiling mount speakers. It had no sound coming out of any of the speakers when the head unit was turned on. Got another head unit at a local JY and quickly tried it there in their parking lot - still no sound, figured it had to be a wiring harness issue somewhere and took the JY unit back inside and returned it.

A few weeks later, with the Burb running in my driveway and the head unit on, I slammed shut the open front passenger door after lubing its hinges and lo and behold, for about a second there was very distorted sound coming from that door's speaker!

Nah, I thought to myself, it can't be that simple! So, I pulled the door panel and sure enough, there hung the speaker cone, surround completely crumbled away and gone! I then pulled the other three door panels and the far rear speaker grilles and yup, all those speakers were just as trashed or worse! I don't know if it was the high humidity of its Florida home that caused the paper cones to disintegrate like that, or somebody turning the volume up to "Eleven" until the clipped signal distortion caused the speakers' travel to tear the surrounds apart.

So, a new pair of Pioneer 3-ways in the front doors, a pair of Kenwood 3-ways in the rear doors and a pair of Pioneer 4x10 coaxials in the ceiling and it was rocking!

I found a vendor on eBay that took various manufacturers' factory head units and added a ⅛" stereo jack for an Aux input that sent the signal when CD was selected for the source and two pairs of RCA preamp outs controlled by the fader (head unit and outboard factory speaker amps still worked, too). So I bought that so I could play Pandora/audio from Google Maps Navigate from my smartphone's ⅛" stereo headphones jack through the Aux jack with an adapter cable.

What was nice was if I was listening to the radio while Google Navigate was active on my phone, when Navigate said, "Take Exit 397 on the right in one half mile" that would override the radio sound and come out the speakers loud and clear, then the radio station's music would resume.
 
Started up the Yukon tonight and let it warm up before heading out. When I got back out to thw vehicle I have an abs light illuminated.

I really need to invest in a capable scanner unit. I've never seen the abs light without the brake light illuminated as well. Strange.
 
this era of trucks have been plagued with the ABS module that sits on top of the motors under the frame rail. something in the circuit board comes loose. watched a video the other day where a fella removed it, opened it up and re-soldered all the large connections (I assume was for the motors) tried it and it worked fine. Once you get the codes read see if this might be your issue. being it's location and your climate, things like that can get brittle on top of connections to it might have some corrosion forming too!
 
dbrannon79 said:
this era of trucks have been plagued with the ABS module that sits on top of the motors under the frame rail. something in the circuit board comes loose. watched a video the other day where a fella removed it, opened it up and re-soldered all the large connections (I assume was for the motors) tried it and it worked fine. Once you get the codes read see if this might be your issue. being it's location and your climate, things like that can get brittle on top of connections to it might have some corrosion forming too!
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My hope is its the drivers hub. I plan on replacing it just because with another MevoTech TTX unit like I did with the passenger side back in December.

I hope it isnt that stupid module underneath, that thing is a PITA to mess with. Wish the unit was still under the hood like on the newer GMT400s. On the search for a cost effective scanner right now. I've got another road trip to SC planned in April with the Yukon so I need to get this handled. Next round of parts cannon:
  • Drivers hub assembly replacement, mostly for my OCD after replacing the passenger that was roasted.
  • Steering gearbox, lots of play in the output shaft.
  • Power Steering pump for the 3rd time to to GARBAGE reman parts.
  • Most likely another set of catalytic converters due to a now recurring P0420. Of course I am due for inspection next month and cant pass without successful I/M run. My assumption is running the bad injector for so long has runied it.
  • New ABS code ordeal.
  • In 4WD I get a lot of gear noise that I don't ever remember. Going to check the front pumpkin, and T-Case. Maybe fluid swaps too while I am there.
Otherwise the plow is on and ready for Saturdays storm event.
 
QuadStar Tuning recommended to Me the Autel Maxi200 ALDL adapter for My 2000 6.5 diesel truck.
I got it through Amazon about $65.00 IIRC.
while getting it setup I had to choose which brand of vehicle I would be using it on. For obvious reason I picked GM.
Installed the app on My phone and it functions flawlessly.
Capable of doing resets, tire monitor systems, Oil change warning, etc.
After replacing the hubs, rotors, calipers, etc on My 2000, having problems getting the brakes to bleed through the ABS.
This little device is capable of doing the 4WAL ABS brake bleed procedure too.
It will read every sensor thats connected in tune with the ECM of My 2000 Chevy K3500, it also reads all the sensors on the wifeys 08 Malibu too so its not stuck with just the truck.
Does the entire array of live data and freeze frame functions too.
 
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