• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

My 2005 Yukon XL

DieselSlug said:
Luckily mine is nearly a bolt on swap! Same body style truck essentially. My current rack has 6 bolts per rail, this new one has 7 bolts per rail. I will be omitting the 7th attachment point and all should be fine.

Spent time today cleaning more. A quick polish, its still pitted pretty bad. Took a wire Wheel to the threads of the bolts and used a pick to remove debris in the torx and Allen heads. I will be sealing the threads of these bolts upon installation.
View attachment 91168
View attachment 91169

I also had to JBWeld the front carriage bolts back in. They spun when I tried to take them out as they embed to plastic.
View attachment 91170
Click to expand...
Does the side rails on those roof racks seem to be able to be cut down ?
The top of the Suburban is much longer than the top of the cab of My truck so the rails would need to be shortened.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Does the side rails on those roof racks seem to be able to be cut down ?
The top of the Suburban is much longer than the top of the cab of My truck so the rails would need to be shortened.
Click to expand...
Yes, just cut to your required length and re-drill 4 holes in the bottom of the rail to bolt the rails to the plastic bases.

Only issue I could see is making your cuts right so the middle braces fall symmetrically. They "slip" into the bottom of the rails via quare cut outs.
 
We got the Snap On scanner and scope plugged into the Yukon this AM.

All "reads" normal, except for a very slight misfire at idle on Cylinder 5. It's minimal enough to not trigger a CEL, and only at idle not any bit of throttle. A cylinder balance really didnt show much deviation either, all looked good. O2s and fuel trims looked good, much better after that Cylinder 6 injector replacement.

Discussions included cleaning the throttle body, running some sea foam and injector cleaner through it. He is thinking a valve issue, really need to do a leak down to find out on that front. I was also thinking the intake gasket, but why doesn't it get worse at RPM? Same with weak coil, clogged injector, etc. That should all get worse with RPM.
 
DieselSlug said:
That's my thought, but of course they aren't bad enough to visually tell by plug. I wanted to go look at fuel trims again, but I'm just running out of time before our trip
Click to expand...
Not sure if your running any injector cleaners in the fuel, but you might try dousing the tank with some lucas injector cleaner along with a full tank of non-ethanol for the trip.
 
DieselSlug said:
We got the Snap On scanner and scope plugged into the Yukon this AM.

All "reads" normal, except for a very slight misfire at idle on Cylinder 5. It's minimal enough to not trigger a CEL, and only at idle not any bit of throttle. A cylinder balance really didnt show much deviation either, all looked good. O2s and fuel trims looked good, much better after that Cylinder 6 injector replacement.

Discussions included cleaning the throttle body, running some sea foam and injector cleaner through it. He is thinking a valve issue, really need to do a leak down to find out on that front. I was also thinking the intake gasket, but why doesn't it get worse at RPM? Same with weak coil, clogged injector, etc. That should all get worse with RPM.
Click to expand...
what about the old "Italian tune-up" with the water bottle!! That will remove any carbon on the valves and pistons. also these GM engines to have to have the throttle bodies removed from time to time and cleaned out with a good carb or brake cleaner that resolves the build up. use an old tooth brush on it too.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Not sure if your running any injector cleaners in the fuel, but you might try dousing the tank with some lucas injector cleaner along with a full tank of non-ethanol for the trip.
Click to expand...
I haven't, but I am going to try to grab some after lunch today. I'm at a 1/4 tank again now so it's good timing. I always thought that stuff to be like snake oil. Contemplating on trying rhw seafoam, I have heard good stories, none that hurt anyway.
 
dbrannon79 said:
what about the old "Italian tune-up" with the water bottle!! That will remove any carbon on the valves and pistons. also these GM engines to have to have the throttle bodies removed from time to time and cleaned out with a good carb or brake cleaner that resolves the build up. use an old tooth brush on it too.
Click to expand...
I'm working from home tomorrow, so I will try to remove it and clean it during lunch. I need to get a gasket for it too today.

I'm lost on the Italian tune up, I'm mostly scottish!
 
Just fill a bottle of water and poke a hole in the cap or in the case of the throttle opening being horizontal, use an old windex bottle with sprayer. with the engine good and warm, pull the intake tube off the throttle body and run it at a high RPM while spraying a heavy mist into the throttle body. if pouring it in, don't over do it where the engine stalls. too much water will ruin the engine with hydrolock.

it will stumble and shake some but run it using up the entire bottle of water. there's gonna be a LOT of crap fly out the tail pipe too
 
AK is right, I wasn't thinking about the cats on a newer unit. I would say just do the in tank treatment and clean the throttle body. those two should give you a noticeable difference.
 
I got 2 things of SeaFoam. (1) 16oz to dump in the fuel tank, and (1) 16oz with the fancy spraying tube for direct intake fogging. I should have gotten 2 cans for the fuel due to tank size but oh well, its a start. I was going to put less fuel in but the temps are gonna be single digits the end of this week. I like to keep the tank full. Will stop and dump in another bottle when I see another parts store.

I also got a new gasket for the throttle body to intake for when I remove that to clean carbon tomorrow.

On a side note dorman finally released a SS heater hose quick connect for us with rear HVAC! No more junk plastic ones.
Screenshot_20241217_194520_Facebook.jpg
 
I don't want to rain down on that plastic tee, but I would eliminate it completely and use a brass or stainless barbed tee and cobble up some hose and clamps to it and the existing heater lines. donno how well they last up in your climate but down here in Texas aka "Hell's Front Porch" those plastic junctions don't last very long!
 
DieselSlug said:
Yes, just cut to your required length and re-drill 4 holes in the bottom of the rail to bolt the rails to the plastic bases.

Only issue I could see is making your cuts right so the middle braces fall symmetrically. They "slip" into the bottom of the rails via quare cut outs.
Click to expand...
Might have to take the same amount from each end so that the cut outs would remain symmetrical. 🤷
I’ll find out.
I did call the body shop this morning, they will be open the two days after Christmas. I’m taking at least ine, if not both of thise days off, I’ll then get that rack and gettit installed on toppa my truck. 😹
 
Got the throttle body off. Definitely gunked. Is it enough to be detrimental? Not sure, the blade still seemed to actuate smooth.
20241218_075401.jpg

Some standing oil in the back of the intake, tough to see in pic. Need to try and dry this up
i have an old catch can from my F150, but i havent got around to doing this yet. This intake is the strangest design I have ever seen.
20241218_075603.jpg

Behind the blade you can see scrape marks in the gunk build-up.
20241218_080031.jpg

Cleaned.
20241218_082151.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top