perfect. rebuild or drop in?
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Isuzu 4BD2T diesel swap into Suburban
- Thread starter Burning oil
- Start date
Its a runner, but it will be gone through 100%, painted, powdercoated, plated, new pistons/liner.... I plan to go all out on it. Then take a weekend and swap if for this 4BD2 in the burb now.
I got alot of small stuff done today. I'll post some pics later.
I got alot of small stuff done today. I'll post some pics later.
Starting to do all the small time consuming things. Its fun to make different mechanical item work together.
This was a small victory. You know the fuel line holder/bracket that bolts to the bell housing? I was able to reuse it, but had to mount it somewhere else. I could not mount it to the bell housing because the engine to trans adapter is in the way. So, in looking for another spot it turns out the Isuzu starter mounting was very close. I had to cut the bracket and rebend it to a proper shape. Worked out pretty well.
This was a small victory. You know the fuel line holder/bracket that bolts to the bell housing? I was able to reuse it, but had to mount it somewhere else. I could not mount it to the bell housing because the engine to trans adapter is in the way. So, in looking for another spot it turns out the Isuzu starter mounting was very close. I had to cut the bracket and rebend it to a proper shape. Worked out pretty well.
Turbo drain plumbing.
Was able to combine the isuzu and Holset to make a tube that looks like it was born there.
Was able to combine the isuzu and Holset to make a tube that looks like it was born there.
This turned out pretty cool and did'int cost anything. I was expecting to have to make a new custom line.
Again I was able to combine parts, this time from three engines.
I used the original Isuzu supply line, but it is set up for a banjo bolt. The fitting that screws into the Isuzu turbo has 1/4" pipe to banjo. The new Holset has a 12mm 1.5 fitting to inverted flare so I was able to use a 1/4" pipe tee to connect the Isuzu fitting, but the Holset being metric would not fit. I though well let me see what the 6.5 has on it. I new it was 1/4" pipe to ??. Turns out it was perfect, a 1/4" pipe x the same inverted flare as the holset, SO now I was able the put the 6.5 fitting on the Holtset line and screw that into the tee with the Isuzu hard line.
On the other run of the tee I installed the oil pressure switch.
Confused??
Again I was able to combine parts, this time from three engines.
I used the original Isuzu supply line, but it is set up for a banjo bolt. The fitting that screws into the Isuzu turbo has 1/4" pipe to banjo. The new Holset has a 12mm 1.5 fitting to inverted flare so I was able to use a 1/4" pipe tee to connect the Isuzu fitting, but the Holset being metric would not fit. I though well let me see what the 6.5 has on it. I new it was 1/4" pipe to ??. Turns out it was perfect, a 1/4" pipe x the same inverted flare as the holset, SO now I was able the put the 6.5 fitting on the Holtset line and screw that into the tee with the Isuzu hard line.
On the other run of the tee I installed the oil pressure switch.
Confused??
was until i looked at the picture. love it when a plan comes together.
The "remote sense" for alternators actually goes to the main electrical junction with the sole purpose of increasing the output voltage due to the voltage drop from the alt output terminal across the wire to the main junction. 6 amps to the battery is not a significant voltage drop due to the wire where 100 amps (or 50) to the main junction is a big voltage drop. (Big and small is relative as I am talking about less than 1 volt for 'big'.)
So all the remote sense does is make the voltage at the main junction 'correct' and the batteries follow due to relatively small current going to them from the main junction. The sense correction is critical to charge batteries as most alternators are temperature compensated to charge them properly. The temperature compensation is less than the voltage drop can be to the main junction. People can have luck bypassing this if the charge wire to the alternator is very large with little voltage drop at 100A.
So all the remote sense does is make the voltage at the main junction 'correct' and the batteries follow due to relatively small current going to them from the main junction. The sense correction is critical to charge batteries as most alternators are temperature compensated to charge them properly. The temperature compensation is less than the voltage drop can be to the main junction. People can have luck bypassing this if the charge wire to the alternator is very large with little voltage drop at 100A.
Thats a good explanation. The further bats are from alt the more V drop may happen. Being as our bats are 2 feet away and Im also using 2 gauge cables there should not be much drop.
3500GMC
What T F, over
True, but the volt-sensing wire compensates for the voltage drop in the main load center..(block on firewall) This bumps up the voltage to the 'charge wire' on the back of the Alt that, in turn, raises the whole electrical systems voltage to, say, 13.8 to 14 while going down the road.
The voltage sensing lead basically compensates for the inherent resistance of 'wire'... 14v at the headlamps is better than 13v ..etc. Lift pumps and other things like the extra voltage too.
The voltage sensing lead basically compensates for the inherent resistance of 'wire'... 14v at the headlamps is better than 13v ..etc. Lift pumps and other things like the extra voltage too.
The brown truck came today
and will be for the next few days!
and will be for the next few days!
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
do you suppose it's possible to fool the volt sensing wire so as to bump up the voltage a bit?
Well I asked my brother. He says its possible, but without knowing the specs on the alt it could be dangerous to your system.
Why do you want more voltage?
Why do you want more voltage?
Keeping at it.
Im going to relocate the batteries. That gave me space to run the stock Isuzu air filter. This thing is huge AND! it will allow me to modify it for a "true cold air intake"
First I had to lower the battery tray. I cut a good 2" ut of it.
View attachment 30811
Next used body hammers to reshape the inner fender at the point the tray bolted to. This lowered it to match the other side.
View attachment 30812
Cut the Isuzu inlet off. Actually drilled the spot welds out.
View attachment 30813
Fitment looks pretty good and the hood closes.
View attachment 30814
Bracket installed
Air filter bolted to new bracket
New location for the inlet. This will fit perfectly into the hole in core support
behind headlight. The Isuzu boot fits perfectly.
4" pipe welded in place.
I'll get some pics if the inlet installed in the core support tomorrow. It turned out very cool. I like this filter because it is huge/ has alot of surface area. And its a much shorter run to the turbo with only one elbow needed.
Im going to relocate the batteries. That gave me space to run the stock Isuzu air filter. This thing is huge AND! it will allow me to modify it for a "true cold air intake"
First I had to lower the battery tray. I cut a good 2" ut of it.
View attachment 30811
Next used body hammers to reshape the inner fender at the point the tray bolted to. This lowered it to match the other side.
View attachment 30812
Cut the Isuzu inlet off. Actually drilled the spot welds out.
View attachment 30813
Fitment looks pretty good and the hood closes.
View attachment 30814
Bracket installed
Air filter bolted to new bracket
New location for the inlet. This will fit perfectly into the hole in core support
behind headlight. The Isuzu boot fits perfectly.
4" pipe welded in place.
I'll get some pics if the inlet installed in the core support tomorrow. It turned out very cool. I like this filter because it is huge/ has alot of surface area. And its a much shorter run to the turbo with only one elbow needed.
Well Im not sure why the pictures did not attach but here it is again.
Keeping at it.
Im going to relocate the batteries. That gave me space to run the stock Isuzu air filter. This thing is huge AND! it will allow me to modify it for a "true cold air intake"
First I had to lower the battery tray. I cut a good 2" out of it.
Next used body hammers to reshape the inner fender at the point the tray bolted to. This lowered it to match the other side.
Cut the Isuzu inlet off. Actually drilled the spot welds out.
Fitment looks pretty good and the hood closes.
Was able to use the stock 6.5 heater core hose for one run and the stock Isuzu hose for the other. I did have to install some st ells to get the proper connection angles.
Pretty hard to see in this pic, but the 6.5 water temp sensor fits perfectly inplace of the Isuzu's. It right above idler pulley.
Power steering reservoir from Isuzu fits with a fabed bracket.
Isuzu water seperator. Im also going to run a pre lift pump filter.
I was able to remove the HUGE 6.5 radiator reservoir and use that space for the filters. I will be running a 93 style radiator and the Isuzu reservior mounted on driver side.
Pretty hard to see in this pic, but the 6.5 water temp sensor fits perfectly inplace of the Isuzu's. It right above idler pulley.
Power steering reservoir from Isuzu fits with a fabed bracket.
Isuzu water seperator. Im also going to run a pre lift pump filter.
I was able to remove the HUGE 6.5 radiator reservoir and use that space for the filters. I will be running a 93 style radiator and the Isuzu reservior mounted on driver side.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I'd just like to have it closer to 13-14 after everything is warmed up instead of barely 12
Have you put a multi meter on your alt? Should be more than 12 while running. More like 13.8v
- Staff
- #98
What's this on? Have you checked to see what it actually is at the battery? I know the 94 and older guages read pretty low VS actual voltage. Depending on your alternator, it could be a bad regulator. I have a reman alternator from ADVANCE on my old JEEP and it will barely hold 13 volts when hot with no load. The AZ one I had before it would hold 13.5, and the stocker held 14.2 before it died.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
that pretty much decribes both my trucks. the plow truck is the worst I believe it actually stops charging
Plan B. Isuzu filter was to big and would not allow radiator to fit. I might make it fit someday, just not now.
So, I looked a the K47 air box and decided it would work. The Isuzu rubber boot fits the K47 inlet almost perfect and allowed me to come off it with 4" pipe.
Had to modify the K47 by drilling a 4" hole on the opposite side of stock outlet. It will be the new outlet. I drilled a small guide hole for the 4" hole saw then made the 4" hole. The drill bit needs to be exactly between the two halves.
Un modified core support.
Isuzu boot in the hole.
New 4" hole
Orintation of box. The long pipe will be shortened to about 3" long. Just long enough to stick through core support. The pipe is attached to the Isuzu boot and the boot fits very nicely into the K47 box, like it was made to go there.
Marked off area to be removed.
Big hole saw tkaes care of it and makes a clean hole.
K47 intalled but not plumbed into the turbo.
Inlet side plumbed. As you can see this will be a true cold air system and maybe alittle ram air effect??
So, I looked a the K47 air box and decided it would work. The Isuzu rubber boot fits the K47 inlet almost perfect and allowed me to come off it with 4" pipe.
Had to modify the K47 by drilling a 4" hole on the opposite side of stock outlet. It will be the new outlet. I drilled a small guide hole for the 4" hole saw then made the 4" hole. The drill bit needs to be exactly between the two halves.
Un modified core support.
Isuzu boot in the hole.
New 4" hole
Orintation of box. The long pipe will be shortened to about 3" long. Just long enough to stick through core support. The pipe is attached to the Isuzu boot and the boot fits very nicely into the K47 box, like it was made to go there.
Marked off area to be removed.
Big hole saw tkaes care of it and makes a clean hole.
K47 intalled but not plumbed into the turbo.
Inlet side plumbed. As you can see this will be a true cold air system and maybe alittle ram air effect??