• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Isuzu 4BD2T diesel swap into Suburban

Awesome thread, I'll be watching every step of the way. Few questions for you:

What are you planning on for the engine mounts? A four cylinder will have more vibrations so are you doing anything to dampen the vibrations more?

How much did you budget this would cost you, total, turnkey?
 
Drive shaft is composite ,for sure.

jmack, Ive only done trial fittment as discovered I will need to modify the oil pan and move the a/c comp. As far as motor mounts, I will probaly fit it atleast one more time to figure those out. I could not get the engine down far enough to confirm what needs doing, but from what I did see I'm thinking the frame mount pads will come off and the Isuzu mounts installed in place. The Isuzu mounts are almost exactly the same hieght and the stock, but will be easier then modifiying the stock pads.
I got some pictures of the oil pan mod that I'll post up next.

On a side note: I discovered the water pump has the same bolt patteren for the fan clutch/pulley, So I might run the HD fan clutch and Duramax fan if I need to.
 
How much did you budget this would cost you, total, turnkey?

Forgot to answer this.
To be honest I did not budget. But I should come out very well Assuming I like the engine and want to keep it.
So far $3000 for complete Isuzu donor (can be had for less if you look/wait)
$680 For adapter
??$$ fluids/oils
$8 Oil pan gasket
I will get back some amount of money when I scrap the donor. I now have a stroage shed (the box off the back of donor) Worth $1000 to me if I had to build one from wood.
I can sell the 6.5 if I need/want to. It ran perfectly good.
So, all in all it will be a small output of money in the end.
 
So you're coming out cheaper than rebuilding a 6.2/6.5 and better fuel economy, same amount of power.

Not to mention more reliable. How many miles are on the 4BD?

What are you're plans for the engine in the long run to make more power?
 
Here are some pics of the progression of oil pan mod. Basicaly I had to cut off the protrusion that would be making contact with the frame.
I wanted to buy a 4bd1 oil pan, but after a couple wild goose chases and lost time I just moded mine. It was not as bad as I thought it was going to be. About an hour of time. I'm going to leak test it today.

DSCN2981.JPGDSCN2982.JPGDSCN2986.JPGDSCN2987.JPG
 
So you're coming out cheaper than rebuilding a 6.2/6.5 and better fuel economy, same amount of power.

Not to mention more reliable. How many miles are on the 4BD?

What are you're plans for the engine in the long run to make more power?

If you can find a low miles 4bd1 or 4bd2 then yes it could be a good way to go (money wise) (i'm still not done so can't say if I like it yet) So far it has been very simple the next mod will be to raise the A/C mount. Im going to wait till engine is setting in place before starting that.
My plans for more power are small. Im planing on larger injectors and I have a new turbo going on.
Its a Holset HE341 off a newer Cummins. Advance the timing and turn up the fuel screw. Those mods alone I'm guessing would put me at 200-250 HP and still close to 30MPG. These long blocks can handle atleast 500 HP.
The flange outlet on my turbo is 4" and I will have to make a custom down pipe, anyone have a source for vband clamps/flanges...ect maybe another vendor here?
 
Were there any issues with the injection pump hitting anything or does it clear everything with ease?

After modifying the oil pan would the 4BD be able to bolt right up to the transmission or would you still have clearance issues?
 
Were there any issues with the injection pump hitting anything or does it clear everything with ease?

After modifying the oil pan would the 4BD be able to bolt right up to the transmission or would you still have clearance issues?

IP will clear (its on pass side. turbo on driver side).
Trans will fit both ways, oil pan did not interfere with trans.
 
after the pan mod, how much oil capacity did you lose? looks like a quart. would the pan be an issue with a 2WD?
are you going to get the original shaft cut/welded or get a steel one? i can cut/weld a steel one for you, remember.
 
after the pan mod, how much oil capacity did you lose? looks like a quart. would the pan be an issue with a 2WD?
are you going to get the original shaft cut/welded or get a steel one? i can cut/weld a steel one for you, remember.

I don't know the oil capacity, but I think its like 12qts. The area I cut off was 1-1.5 qts.
My burb is a 2wd.
After I get the engine/trans mounted I can determine if I'll need a new DS. I did have alittle room left on the yoke. If I do need a new DS it will have to be steel.
 
Did a leak test on the pan and it leaked like crazy. The pan is a double wall and it would leak from holes inside the pan to the outside shell. I had to weld another piece to seal the outer shell.
DSCN2991.JPG
 
Got alittle more done

Had to cut the original motor mount pads off flush with the frame

DSCN2993.JPG
Another pic of oil pan mod.

DSCN2994.JPG
I got alittle red neck. I was tired of pumping the jack handle. It takes 150 pump to raise it high enough to clear the core support. So I rested it on a 55gal drum between fittings.
Murphy's law hit and the jack broke :WTF:. I could not get it off the drum. It had to stay there for the night. Lucky it was a strong drum.

DSCN2995.JPG
Engine in basicaly where it needs to be. Its not bolted down.
DSCN2997.JPG
Will correct the lean. Its leaning alittle toward pass side.

DSCN2998.JPG


DSCN2999.JPG
Picture of new motor mount. Its the Isuzu mount with a 3/8" plate on bottom. Im going to position everything including trans then weld the 3/8" plate to the frame in a few spots. Im going to weld into the plate some nuts for the Isuzu mount to bolt to.

DSCN3000.JPG
This is the new jack I bought. Its an air over hydrualic jack. Its so much nicer, just hook up the air and press the handle. It will clear the engine over the core support it 30 seconds.
DSCN2996.JPG
 
It fills it up more than I thought it would. The exhaust is going to be a mother focker to fab up.
 
Back
Top