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Isuzu 4BD2T diesel swap into Suburban

it looks right at home. what is going to the hardest part on the exhaust?
like the new lift!
 
The turbo exhaust outlet is right above the starter and its going to be a very sharp bend downward to were the starter is right in the way. and not much room to get around it.

Im thinking I might go up over the valve cover to pass side and hook into the existing exhaust system. I think I would have to cut the flare off where the pipe met the 6.5 turbo. Then weld a straight flange there with a Vband clamp.

Engine has plenty of clearence for hood at the front, but I did not check yet if the exhaust would clear. I think it will as the clearence gets larger the further back you go toward the fire wall.
 
Burning oil said:
Oil pan would have to be modified to clear diff and probaly the same mod I did above on pass side oil pan.
Click to expand...

Approx. how much wider is the suzi oil pan vs the 6.5 pan? Looks like the pan will clear ok over the front axle tube.

My bigger concern with the 4x4 is how much the adapter offsets the transmission to the rear, and is there is enough clearance behind the core support to move the engine forward into the proper position without relocating the rest of the drivetrain? As previously mentioned, fooling with the crossmember for the torsion bars could be problematic.

Also wondering if the clearance is enough that you would be able to offset the radiator further aft to place the intercooler, if there is one, and or other coolers in the stack ahead of the rad?

Any chance of posting up a pic of the gap between the motor and core support?
 
Yachtcare said:
Approx. how much wider is the suzi oil pan vs the 6.5 pan? Looks like the pan will clear ok over the front axle tube.

My bigger concern with the 4x4 is how much the adapter offsets the transmission to the rear, and is there is enough clearance behind the core support to move the engine forward into the proper position without relocating the rest of the drivetrain? As previously mentioned, fooling with the crossmember for the torsion bars could be problematic.

Also wondering if the clearance is enough that you would be able to offset the radiator further aft to place the intercooler, if there is one, and or other coolers in the stack ahead of the rad?

Any chance of posting up a pic of the gap between the motor and core support?
Click to expand...

Adapter is appox 1" thick. Im finding its not the adapter but the motor mounts and oil pan clearence that is the pain now. Still have to come up with Alt, a/c mount, turbo and plumbing (oil supply, return and exhaust) Intercooler, radiator, fuel lines, trans lines, throttle................ect
Next time engine is in i'll get a picture of water pump to core support area.
 
Live and learn!!

I had to start all over on the oil pan. Once I fitted the engine again I thought I would be good to go, but I went to bolt the trans up and it would not get close enough without trans tunnel mods or remove more of the oil pan. This was a learning curve that I had to go through as when I fitted the engine the first time it was obvious the first oil pan mod had to be done. I could not get the engine anywhere close to installed so did not know the sump would force the engine location to far back and interfere with the trans mounting.
So now Im back to putting the trans back in stock location, but engine will be further forward and make IC and Radiator possible issues (cross that bridge.....) Good thing is won't have to put out money for a new drive shaft.

Pictures show progression of the latest oil pan mods. Im still going to add a couple ports up high (For a drain) on the pan on pass side just incase I wind up relocating turbo to pass side.
Im guessing I took 2 more qts of capacity out, but will make it up with remote filters and an addition oil cooler (Isuzu has liquid to liquid cooler built into the block)
Used my plasma torch to cut it up. Cut the old drain plug out and welded it in place.

Motor mounts and starter are next.

DSCN3001.JPGDSCN3006.JPGDSCN3004.JPGDSCN3007.JPGDSCN3008.JPGDSCN3009.JPGDSCN3010.JPG
 
That block looks pretty beefy for a 4 cyl.

Isn't FAB fun, I'm given a vague idea on a project and have to come up with a finished product all the time.

Good solution to your problem Leroy, the extra cooler and filters will do it.
 
NVW said:
That block looks pretty beefy for a 4 cyl.

Isn't FAB fun, I'm given a vague idea on a project and have to come up with a finished product all the time.

Good solution to your problem Leroy, the extra cooler and filters will do it.
Click to expand...

It is beefy, It weighs as much as a 6.5 and is a 4cyl.

I had to do very simular mods on the 6bt in my 96. Very time consuming.

Just thinking out loud now: I could fab up a remote resevoir to hold oil, it would have an oil filter thread and screw onto a remote oil filter base. It could be as big as needed. One could possibly take an old oil filter and cut the bottom off then weld it to the resevior. This gets you the proper sealing and threads.
 
That would work, I found that if you can find some large, thin walled sq. or rect. tube and cap the ends, that's the easiest way to make it. Cuts down on the welds.
 
Thats a good idea. I was just thinking what could I use. I have a stainless steel box I could use also.
 
This is an excellent thread Leroy. I have always wondered why no one was using these engines. They appear very stout and are used on several box trucks. I have seen many with well over 500K on the odometer. They seem to run well, but are a little loud. They seem a little bigger than the 4 cylinder Cummins. They should burn anything that is oil. ;) :thumbsup:
 
Got something productive done. Got the A/c Comp mounted. Its a Sanden 508. I was hopeing it would have the same mounting as the stock compressor, but it was different. I had to make my own brackets and get a 2" longer belt. I chose the 508 because they are very reliable and easy to get and fairly cheap. This one is a brand new chrome for $150. The hose will also be easier to deal with.

Im going to mount the Alt on pass side to give alittle room for the turbo or I might locate the turbo to the pass side??? will see how it go's when engine is in final position.

DSCN3011.JPGDSCN3012.JPGDSCN3013.JPGDSCN3014.JPGDSCN3015.JPG
 
Not a very good picture. The starter is designed to have the motor below the solenoid witch puts it right in the way of the cross member. I learned you can cut one of the ears off and rotate the starter so the motor is up high. There is also a starter made for another application that I am researching that does the same thing, but keeps all three mounting points and orinents the drain tube downward.

DSCN3016.JPG
 
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