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Isuzu 4BD2T diesel swap into Suburban

This is awesome Leroy, now if only GM would come up with a 4L straight six turbo diesel we would just buy it from them! In the new Suburban! In this GM has failed, Ford and Dogde as well of course.
 
This is awesome Leroy, now if only GM would come up with a 4L straight six turbo diesel we would just buy it from them! In the new Suburban! In this GM has failed, Ford and Dogde as well of course.

Hey Tom! I for sure agree with you. GM and Isuzu did put out some diesel car and trucks in the early 80s in the Chevette, Isuzu I-mark and Isuzu pup truck. I would have loved to see the evolution of those diesels and more.
 
Got some work on the throttle pedal today. Im going to combine the GM mounting points on fire wall with the Isuzu floor mounts. It ought to be solid.
I had to cut the Isuzu assy down as it was to tall. I ran out of light but should have that done tomorrow. Nice thing is I keep the Isuzu throttle cable and TPS. The cable will come up though floor board.
Also, picked up two spare 6.5 oil pans at Davids (deejaaa) today. Plan is to graft it into the Isuzu pan. This will give me the correct contours and maximize oil capacity.
Thanks again David, was good to finally meet you.
 
Got the throttle pedal and cable hooked up!! I was able to modify the Isuzu pedal and ad it to the Chevy mouting point on firewall. The cable comes up though floor and fits like it was made to go there. Nice thing is I was able to keep the correct orintation for the cable so the pedal operates the IP fully. Also, kept the correct linkage set up for the TPS so it will match correctly for transmission functions.

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The short cable with the knob is a high idle ajustment.
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Here you can see the Chevy mount. I just welded a bracket to the pedal assy then bolted it to the mount
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Cable comes though floor and seals perfectly with the stock Isuzu gromet. Also mounts to floor shown.
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Idle ajusting knob will mount in dash.
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Pulled bats back out to paint the raw metal. Eventualy I have them powdercoated.

Added and extra turnbuckle to support the weight.
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They are held down with some aluminium angle.
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Hinges welded the trays.
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2?s Leroy. 1. what is the green/red guage? 2. are you worried about the batts bouncing up and down with the slack from the turnbuckle? or do you tighten the turnbuckle up against a stop? I guess that's 3?
 
Gauge is for fuel pressure. It has a perfect scale on it for the 6.5's
Bats are pretty tight against floor, but I will look at that again. A stop is a good idea.
 
my concern is metal fatigue. those hinges look strong enough for a static location but the pins, will they eventually snap/shear? same on the turnbuckle, the top mounting area, is that just a hole or is there a backing plate to keep it from ripping? my guess is there is at least 70-80 pounds pulling on that one small point. some potholes can compound the weight many times over.
where did you get the bat trays? they look good.
where are you going to mount the idle knob? that's a great accessory.
 
Im sure its strong enough on the hinges. There are two of the turnbuckes holding. One go's to the frame and other to the factory hole in floor. I guess I could weld a big washer there to reinforce the area if it becomes an issue. I might even go ahead and bolt a plate to the frame that would support the batteries incase the hinge failed and provide a skid plate for them too.
 
Had to make room for the turbo. The Hydroboost (HB) was in the way so I rotated it upside down. I forgot to get the "before" picture on the turbo side but you guys allready know what it looks like.

The bolts that hold the HB to the master cylinder (MC) are special and were a real nice design. They have reverse threads in the shoulder area of the bolt that are larger diameter than the rest of the bolt. This allows the bolts to be removed to reduce the amount of moving the MC around and streching/bending lines. The reverse threads means that when you go to tighten up the nut on the MC side the bolt wont back out or spin.
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Not pictured, but four nuts must be removed along with a clip holding brake pedal to HB rod.
Once removed you can remove the snap ring. After that there is a BIG nut holding HB to baking plate. The nut is a unique shape and would require some kind of special socket. It is on there very tightly and the mating surface of the nut is designed to grip the backing plate.
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A trick I have used before was to take an air impact chisel and rotate the nut off. I also tightend it back down this way.
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I started to remove the keyway in the backing plate then remembered to take this picture. Anyway it will have to be romoved.
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Rasp on a drill took it down in about 30 seconds.
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Hard to see, but is smooth now.
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Reassymble everything. Notice the gold HB accumilator on opposite side now. I have some special fitting from Aeroquip? that convert the metric oring HB threads to a -6 flare. I'll be running stainless braided hose to it.
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Gained about 3" and got the HB alittle further away from the heat. I'm expecting a turbo blanket in the mail today also.
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Skid plate/support for batteries

You talked me into it. Can't really have to much support, but you can have to little.:agreed:

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Removed the oil pan again. Im able to remove the pan with engine still in truck, thats cool.
I was not real happy with the job I did before. Had the idea to weld a 6.5 pan to a Isuzu oil pan flange. Its goint to be alittle more work than I thought as always.

6.5 on left
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Isuzu flange cut off.
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6.5 flanges cut off
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Front of 6.5 pan cut off
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Isuzu flange sitting on 6.5 pan.
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I'll be welding on it tomorrow and hopfully have that done.
 
Wow you are doing an amazing job. I have been looking every where for for a good thread and this one is great. I have a 5 month old baby and another on the way. Got a f350 400 hp 16 mpg and a Mercedes diesel 44 mpg I live 38 miles from town and need a car for the wife that gets good mpg. My broth er law gave me his 94 suburban 4x4 leather interior. Im going to drop in a 4bt or a 4bd.

So my question is can you help me find an engine for a good price. 4bt cummins or 4bd Isuzu. Also which one do you recommend?
I found one for 1700 waiting for shipping quote.

Were did you get the transmission adapter. I want to use the 700r that's in it or whatever tyranny that's in it.

I live in California so I have to taked it to a ref station. When im done to convert to. diesel.
Thank any help would be awesome.
 
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