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Intake Ground Stud-bolt
- Thread starter Brooklyn Tow
- Start date
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
I don't even hesitate:smash::crazy::idea: They make new wrenches every day
X2 you gotta do what you gotta do, I've even got some "custom" Snap On tools/wrenches field modified to work in places the turbine designers forgot to provide tool clearance for. No warranty of course after that but they get the job done where no other tool will work.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
That would work. Scared to grind on a perfectly good wrench?
I don't even hesitate:smash::crazy::idea: They make new wrenches every day
No grinder.....It would take more time and effort to go grind the wrench then just unscrew it a little......like the 37 times before.
But that should work in theroy.....Correct?
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Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
I'll have to put the skinny wrench on the list of 6.5 tools needed......Or what about a really coarse piece of sand paper?:hihi:
Good one, eh? :rof:
:hihi:Good one, eh? :rof:
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
OK.....WTS ghost back with a VENGENCE!.......Got the whole tranny stick stud deal worked out and relocated that last Ground wire (2wires crimped into 1 eye lug) to the rear intake stud.
That said, the ground strap that was attached to the tranny stud broke, the eyelet is still on the stud and the strap is hanging. "BUT", when I'm driving or first start, or any start, there is good power and the WTS, STS, SES and the whole gang are lit and I fire off and life is good.
But still usually when idling, the truck will die, I'll key off, then key on, and I'll have no WTS and no STS and a "FLICKERING" SES like bad ground, no power. Then under the hood I go, with my 14mm ratchet, loosen the nut on the intake mani stud (where every wire is re crimped twice, and stacked w/ washers in between) that has been wire brushed till high gloss finish, shake the harness a little (sometimes, not all) and then......."CLICK", STS, WTS and she fires right up, drive around 1,2,3, hours everything fine, and then I'll pull over, idle 10 min and......DEAD!
Is that last braided ground on the tranny stick still in play?...........There is no wire there anymore......and even so, why all the drive time?
I CAN'T WORK LIKE THIS.....Someone have an idea ?
Please!
That said, the ground strap that was attached to the tranny stud broke, the eyelet is still on the stud and the strap is hanging. "BUT", when I'm driving or first start, or any start, there is good power and the WTS, STS, SES and the whole gang are lit and I fire off and life is good.
But still usually when idling, the truck will die, I'll key off, then key on, and I'll have no WTS and no STS and a "FLICKERING" SES like bad ground, no power. Then under the hood I go, with my 14mm ratchet, loosen the nut on the intake mani stud (where every wire is re crimped twice, and stacked w/ washers in between) that has been wire brushed till high gloss finish, shake the harness a little (sometimes, not all) and then......."CLICK", STS, WTS and she fires right up, drive around 1,2,3, hours everything fine, and then I'll pull over, idle 10 min and......DEAD!
Is that last braided ground on the tranny stick still in play?...........There is no wire there anymore......and even so, why all the drive time?
I CAN'T WORK LIKE THIS.....Someone have an idea ?
Please!
NVW
Well-Known Member
Ignition switch
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
x2
bison
Well-Known Member
It ain't always the grounds playing tricks on ye,it could be power supply as well.
Batt to fuse box thin red cable could've worked loose or can be corroded at the stud.
or a burned or corroded wire or fuse terminal at the box.
Ign switch is a good candidate though.
Batt to fuse box thin red cable could've worked loose or can be corroded at the stud.
or a burned or corroded wire or fuse terminal at the box.
Ign switch is a good candidate though.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
OK....So if it's the ign switch, why is the problem confined to STS and WTS?.......Also, I know the PCM is loosing the power because when she does, "come back", my SES code is gone (Boost related, P0236 or the other one ) untill next "key on-off"......So if it was the ign, wouldn't the whole shabang be NIL?.....Instead of just the "fuel supply"......And why is the SES light "flickering" like bad connection....Ign??
PCMs fail also. A bad connection on a circuit board or other things can drive you crazy. You need to determine if the power to the PCM is failing or if the signals in the pcm are failing. You might have to drive around with the scan tool connected untill it fails, to see what changed.
I've had 2 pcm's fail. Drove me nuts figuring it out both times.
I've had 2 pcm's fail. Drove me nuts figuring it out both times.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
the ign switch has several contacts in it which can fail individually
NVW
Well-Known Member
Mine fails on the starter contacts at -25 C or colder.
Try rocking the tilt wheel and see if it makes any difference Louis, it's works on mine.
Try rocking the tilt wheel and see if it makes any difference Louis, it's works on mine.
bison
Well-Known Member
Heck it could be anything finally giving out on these old boats.
Wriggle the harnass under the steering collum.
blown bulb on the WTS indicator.
Do the glow circuit actually work?
Wriggle the harnass under the steering collum.
blown bulb on the WTS indicator.
Do the glow circuit actually work?
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
The glow circut works, I've shaken the harness, etc.
The problem is very specific, when she dies, EVERYTHING else works as it should, just PCM loosing power and not providing the WTS, STS and the fuel delivery, so you can crank the key ALL DAY, and she won't fire (Also, when I am in fail mode the SES light that is "ALWAYS on" due to a boost code is flickering, like there is a bad connection to keep it full bright, because even in fail mode the SES is still working).......Then you here the "click", STS and WTS pop on and she'll run like there is no problem.
In the past when I've had the "ghost" cleaning up those specific ground wires (the 2 on the intake stud, and the 1 on the trans dip stud "SOLVED" the problem every time.....The only thing thats changed is the trans ground wire moved too the intake stud and the broken ground strap.
Anyone have a wiring schematic of the specific WTS power and I'm sure there will be STS that comes in somewhere on that circut......I'ts definatley PCM loosing power on an intermitint basis......Just don't know where and rather than doing the Old, "Change this and lets see what happens approach", I'd like too do a process of elimination "diagnostic".
The problem is very specific, when she dies, EVERYTHING else works as it should, just PCM loosing power and not providing the WTS, STS and the fuel delivery, so you can crank the key ALL DAY, and she won't fire (Also, when I am in fail mode the SES light that is "ALWAYS on" due to a boost code is flickering, like there is a bad connection to keep it full bright, because even in fail mode the SES is still working).......Then you here the "click", STS and WTS pop on and she'll run like there is no problem.
In the past when I've had the "ghost" cleaning up those specific ground wires (the 2 on the intake stud, and the 1 on the trans dip stud "SOLVED" the problem every time.....The only thing thats changed is the trans ground wire moved too the intake stud and the broken ground strap.
Anyone have a wiring schematic of the specific WTS power and I'm sure there will be STS that comes in somewhere on that circut......I'ts definatley PCM loosing power on an intermitint basis......Just don't know where and rather than doing the Old, "Change this and lets see what happens approach", I'd like too do a process of elimination "diagnostic".
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625fireman
I have injecter-itis
I had a 'simular' deal with mine once. It was one of the connectors on the ECM itself. The pink one IIRC. One of the wire ends that are supposed to lock into the plug broken the little tab thing off so it wouldnt stay in. Not the whole plug just the one stupid wire, but it just so happened to be the damn power feed for the ECM. Kinda hard to find that one, you have to take out the glove box and wrangle the ecm out to see anything. Those ends might be hard to find if you need to crimp on a new one. I got lucky my uncle retired from Packard Electric and he had one in his tool box. Maybe Terminal Supply would have them if you need to go that route. Hope this helps.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
I will check the computer plugs and wires/connections......anyone know what plug/connector/position the power for PCM/ECM is?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I would pull the puter out and leave it loose. next time it happens you can carefully wiggle things to pin point it.
Brooklyn Tow
9 11 Never Forget
If there is nothing obvious on inspection, thats exactly what I'll do......good idea, Thanks AK.
625fireman
I have injecter-itis
Any update Louis?????????
jrsavoie
Recruit
I've had to replace the ignition switches in all of my vehicles.
If you haven't replaced the ignition switch yet, I'd go ahead and do that. It was the last thing I did to the 96 Suburban to put the WTS ghost at bay.
I ran my grounds in a loop with multiple wires in the eyelets.I started at the battery and ran a ground to the back stud.
I moved the ground off the fender to the battery box bolt that goes to the fender & ran an auxilary to the frame and firewall.
If you haven't replaced the ignition switch yet, I'd go ahead and do that. It was the last thing I did to the 96 Suburban to put the WTS ghost at bay.
I ran my grounds in a loop with multiple wires in the eyelets.I started at the battery and ran a ground to the back stud.
I moved the ground off the fender to the battery box bolt that goes to the fender & ran an auxilary to the frame and firewall.