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Intake Ground Stud-bolt

Brooklyn Tow said:
10-4 on that brother, Just waiting for daylight......It was very hard too see in the dark, even with the underhood reel light.

Barry, you got that wrench handy (the ground down one).......Torque spec on that "wet stud".............Anyone?
Click to expand...

Lou nothing saying you can't add an extra gnd to that stack up; add #10 wire & lug to the stud end, and other end to "clean spot" on the fire wall with another ring lug.
 
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I don't know the exact thickness of the wrench. Somewhere around 1/4-5/16. Gm manual says 31 ft lbs on the bolt/stud.
The upper [closest to the valve cover] intake manifold bolts run into the crankcase so they need sealant. The lower intake bolts are dry.
My grounds are on the rear intake bolt/stud not the block-off plate.
 
Still need to move the 2 skinny PCM/WTS/etc. wire grounds off that stud........I may have to snip and reconnect, my WTS ghost is hautingly bad!

And I'm sure I've already exceeded torque value when remove/install in the dark trying to get ground to the whole setup......we'll see when I take it apart.
 
I buy sets of cheap wrenches to use as sacrificial wrenches. I have a 13 mm ground down for the valve cover stud/bolts also.
 
CORRECTION : The coolant crossover and block off plate bolt holes in the heads are dry holes. They don't go through to the water jacket.
 
But any time you pull up the blockoff plate bolts, which are not part of the intake, you will probably get coolant coming out around the plate's gasket.
 
So the coolant comming/weeping/leaking from the Tranny dipstick/ground stud is NOT uncommon......I shouldn't be worried about anything else.....correct?
 
Turbine Doc said:
Lou nothing saying you can't add an extra gnd to that stack up; add #10 wire & lug to the stud end, and other end to "clean spot" on the fire wall with another ring lug.
Click to expand...

If my attempts at "unfusing" that stack of connectors fail, or if I need to add the ground before "fixing" that mess, I'll go to AZ and pickup a ground wire with a ring lug on both ends....That should complete the "ground circut" and exorcise this Demon?
 
buddy said:
unless its ignition switch related, like if you dont get WTS or SES light with the ign in ON/Run
Click to expand...

It's related to all that.....seems when the ground looses it's connection the engine dies, the SES light still works but the, (STS) Service Throttle Body light is out also......That/those grounds service a lot of important circuts.

What a stupid place to connect those grounds!.......Should I use Locktight on that stud in place of thread sealant.....or is that a bad idea?
 
Just use thread sealant Louis.

As mentioned if you have access to a grinder the wrench mod makes it easy to get the nut off so you can remove those wires.
 
Thats my first line of attack Leo, either the wrench or a pair of vice grips to hold that lower nut.....It just seemed that after the dipstick was removed the stud was loose, like I could turn it by hand.....That was why I asked if locktight would be an option in this deal.

But thread sealant it is......and I'll keep my eye on it in the future.
 
bk95td said:
CORRECTION : The coolant crossover and block off plate bolt holes in the heads are dry holes. They don't go through to the water jacket.
Click to expand...

With this info you dont need sealant, unless just using anti-sieze, and loc-tite would be OK, and you are not crazy, that stud is the same for me, real loose after a bit of pressure on it.
 
What you are working with is a stud top bolt.

The bolt holds the water block off plate to the head, the holes do not go into water.

The thin wrench trick is the way to go.

The nut holds the ground wires and once its tight, the bolt many times will back off instead of the nut alone.

Just use a really thin wrench to hold the head of the bolt and then loosen the nut.

If it still leaks, you will need to drain some coolant out, remove the cover, replace the gasket and reinstall the cover.

Use some silicone sealer on the gasket (both sides)

Not a big deal here.

Missy
 
If I unscrew the stud (again) about a 1/4", to raise up the whole stud (skinny nut, grounds, and top not), wouldn't I be able to fit to the 15mm wrench in there to get a bite on the skinny nut?......without grinding a wrench down?

Am I explaining that right?
 
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