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Codes. Truck won’t move

You guys are way overcomplicating this. I would plug everything back in but the RED TCM connector. Next put your meter in DC AMP and connect one end to the battery +. Probe Pin 22 and add a ground to pin 23, record the amperage reading of PCS A. Do the same thing for pin 24 and add ground to pin 25. Record the amperage reading for PCS B. Both PCS are identical other than one is NO and the other is NC. They both should OHM out to 5.5. So the amperage reading for both will be nearly identical. If you get two different amperage readings then you have a wiring, connection, or solenoid issue. If both read the same them you more than likely have a TCM issue.

You need to command the TCM to turn on the PCS to test for the 7v in the flow chart. Your not going to get anywhere testing it without commanding it on.

If I had this in the shop this is exactly what I would do. I've been at this for over 20 years...

Edit. also Unplug PCS A with everything else plugged back in. Turn the key on and set you meter to OHM, You should have O.L on both wires with the other end of the meter on B+ and B- That will test for a short to ground or power on the circuit.
 
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Rockabillyrat said:
You guys are way overcomplicating this. I would plug everything back in but the RED TCM connector. Next put your meter in DC AMP and connect one end to the battery +. Probe Pin 22 and add a ground to pin 23, record the amperage reading of PCS A. Do the same thing for pin 24 and add ground to pin 25. Record the amperage reading for PCS B. Both PCS are identical other than one is NO and the other is NC. They both should OHM out to 5.5. So the amperage reading for both will be nearly identical. If you get two different amperage readings then you have a wiring, connection, or solenoid issue. If both read the same them you more than likely have a TCM issue.

You need to command the TCM to turn on the PCS to test for the 7v in the flow chart. Your not going to get anywhere testing it without commanding it on.

If I had this in the shop this is exactly what I would do. I've been at this for over 20 years...

Edit. also Unplug PCS A with everything else plugged back in. Turn the key on and set you meter to OHM, You should have O.L on both wires with the other end of the meter on B+ and B- That will test for a short to ground or power on the circuit.
Click to expand...
Okay I’m going to do this once the rain stops

Just to clarify


-Red lead from meter on pin 22

-Black lead from meter on battery ground
-Take addition test wires from battery ground to pin 23


This will record the amps for PCS A.

Do the same for B


I can do this check without commanding the solenoid on or wait till I can do that


Sorry for the question. Learning as I go here with truck electrical
 
The contact may be at the point where the wire is connected to the metal pin. The pin itself may be loose. Spray with contact cleaner, or at least wd40. It is better to disassemble the connector and solder where the wire connects to the pin.
If one contact is broken, then others are broken too. They were made at the same time, by the same person, with the same tool, and experienced the same harmful factors.
Swpeet 43Pcs Terminal Removal Tool Assortment Kit, Wire Connector Terminal Pin Extractors Pin Terminal Extractor Kit for Most Car Connector Terminal Needle Removal Tool with Protective Bag https://a.co/d/8SM77Lo
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Amperage test should find any issues with a loose pin because it would add resistance to the circuit. That's why amp ramping with a scope is so important in todays world to be a good diagnostic technician.

Performing a pin drag test is always a good idea, but you would need to buy a set of terminals to use. Its a over looked test, but if you get inexperienced people probing the terminals to the point where they get distorted then your in for some fun intermittent connection issues.
 
Rockabillyrat said:
Amperage test should find any issues with a loose pin because it would add resistance to the circuit. That's why amp ramping with a scope is so important in todays world to be a good diagnostic technician.

Performing a pin drag test is always a good idea, but you would need to buy a set of terminals to use. Its an over looked test, but if you get inexperienced people probing the terminals to the point where they get distorted then your in for some fun intermittent connection issues.
Click to expand...
Once I get home today will do this test

Hopefully a friend can stop by this week to do the volt test with commanding the solenoid aswell
 
The bottleneck of the wiring is the connectors. Ultimately, you will have to revise or replace the connector pins. To pull out the pin, you can use a thin awl or tubes from the telescopic antenna of the old pocket radio, selecting the tube according to its diameter.
 
Does anyone know if this scanner will do the truck.

The guy with the efi live can’t come this week but I have someone else that has this one
 

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Rockabillyrat said:
You guys are way overcomplicating this. I would plug everything back in but the RED TCM connector. Next put your meter in DC AMP and connect one end to the battery +. Probe Pin 22 and add a ground to pin 23, record the amperage reading of PCS A. Do the same thing for pin 24 and add ground to pin 25. Record the amperage reading for PCS B. Both PCS are identical other than one is NO and the other is NC. They both should OHM out to 5.5. So the amperage reading for both will be nearly identical. If you get two different amperage readings then you have a wiring, connection, or solenoid issue. If both read the same them you more than likely have a TCM issue.

You need to command the TCM to turn on the PCS to test for the 7v in the flow chart. Your not going to get anywhere testing it without commanding it on.

If I had this in the shop this is exactly what I would do. I've been at this for over 20 years...

Edit. also Unplug PCS A with everything else plugged back in. Turn the key on and set you meter to OHM, You should have O.L on both wires with the other end of the meter on B+ and B- That will test for a short to ground or power on the circuit.
Click to expand...
Not sure if this is right or not





If I command it on. Then go underneath. And prob the red wire going into the solenoid A. This is what I get



When I command it back off I get 1.86
 

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Rockabillyrat said:
Looks like the TCM is good. Im thinking you have a bad solenoid.
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Okay. What I’m also going to do today if the weather hold off after work is change the pins in the external plug going into the trans.

1 . Some look to be opened up.
2. some look changed already
3. I shouldn’t be able to hear clicking when wiggling the plug around
4. There are only 3 bucks each
 
one thing I have learned over the years of re-pinning connectors is after you crimp the wires in place and before you slide the pins into the connector housing, add some solder to the crimped area for a better connection.

take your time with it. best thing I have learned is take some photos of the connector and wire colors in their locations before pulling it apart. the best reference tool is a photo. although now that you say someone had done some work on this connector, go over it and the pinout diagram to verify they are all in the right places. just added insurance! keep in mind some but not all wire diagrams in the book might show a color of wire which might be a different color on your truck. I have run into this on my truck before.
 
@Rockabillyrat might know where they all are hidden, I would suggest to look carefully all over the engine, intake bolts, around the bell housing bolts. firewall and inner fenders for any grounds. clean them all. also check to make sure the TCM housing is grounded. I assume it's located in the engine bay somewhere and not in the cab. if in the cab. look real good around that area too for a ground strap under the dash or if under the seat. it depends on where they installed the electro boxes.
 
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