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"599" project

WOW! :eek: That's a good chunk of metal!

Will you put the parts back in the same way?
I figure it weighs aprox.1600lbs.:eek: Yes, It's going back in all together. It really sucks to get the engine to tranny bolts in:mad2::mad2:. It's bad enough getting all the crap attached to the studs on the bolts:eek:. With the leveler it is pretty easy guiding it in and out.
 
Progress and new exhaust

I've gotten the old engine stripped down to the long block after seperating from the trans/tc. As I suspected the timing cover is trashed. Even has another hole in it now:nonod:. I checked the harmonic balancer with another one and it matches up perfect with the crank keyway and timing mark. This one didn't slip. Something else caused the crank to break:confused:. When I do a autopsy on the lower end it might tell the story. My guess is that the block cracked throwing the main bearing saddles out of alignment ,which would cause the crank to have to flex and break.
My new exhaust arrived this week. I was very impressed with the warpspeed crossover compared to the hearthrob pipes on 2 of my trucks. It's bigger tube ,heavier flanges,and one piece verses 2 piece with hearthrob:thumbsup::thumbsup:
The diamondeye 4"system arrived today[ups is 2 days slower than fedex]. I'm also impressed with it:thumbsup: The polished stainless steel muffler is great! I just hope it's not too loud. The 4" pipes always look so huge when the're not on the truck. It'll be a few weeks before the truck will need exhaust. The old exhaust is laying next to the new.
 

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Exhaust pics

I didn't mention that the diamondeye system was only $275 including shipping:thumbsup::thumbsup: Came with a Diamondeye baseball hat too:thumbsup:
 

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I painted my diamond eye with rustoleum grill paint, and over a year later the only thing that is rusting is those clamps. I recommend using SS clamps and paint it so it has a chance to last as long as your engine!
 
Thats what my radiator and coolers looked like Friday when I pulled them all loose to clean behind. My truck runs so much cooler after I cleaned it,

The BLACK dirt from Minnesota looks very different from the RED Oklahoma clay. :rolleyes5:
 
Where'd you get the X-over Barry?
The crossover pipe came from Warpspeed. They have a store on ebay. The tube is 2 1/2"! The manifolds are 2 1/4". That's why it's necked down for the flange and bell. It was about $80 with shipping. I just looked and didn't see it in their store.:confused: You might need to contact them on it.
 
Back at it after a few interuptions

I spent the last few days cleaning the front frame and suspension of the 16 years and 200,000 miles of crud grease and rust. Really not that bad on rust for the age and being a minnesota truck. I washed it all down with lacquer thinner and then sprayed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer,2 coats. Then 2 coats of rustoleum gloss black. The rotors and calipers will be painted with engine paint because they get hot.
I was going to order new inner fenders but the price of shipping was double the price of the parts:eek::eek:$180 shipping! I'll be looking locally for them.
I ordered all new shocks,including the steering shock from Rock auto. Napa's price on them is crazy high.
A new double lip seal for between the trans and transfer case is coming from rockauto also.
Lots of other misc. parts to clean and paint yet.
 

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Hoo boy...

I washed it all down with lacquer thinner and then sprayed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer,2 coats. Then 2 coats of rustoleum gloss black.

That must've taken some time. When you say "washed", do mean with a spray bottle? And then wiping everything down by hand?

I have to do something similar this week, and really, REALLY not looking forward to it.


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That must've taken some time. When you say "washed", do mean with a spray bottle? And then wiping everything down by hand?

I have to do something similar this week, and really, REALLY not looking forward to it.


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Yep, it sucks! I wire wheeled everything then washed with lacquer thinner by hand:eek:. The rest of the frame can wait untill I get the hoist installed[bought over a year ago]:mad2:
 
Hubs and brakes

I was undesided weather to replace the rotors or not:confused:. I was just going to remove the calipers and hub/rotors and just clean and paint:rolleyes5:. The rotors wouldn't clean up with the 4" grinder decent :nonod:so I went for new rotors and brake pads. When I took the wheel studs out to remove the old rotors I found 1 bad hub/bearing:eek::eek:. Luckily I had a spare from a parted out 93 1 ton srw:thumbsup:New shocks couldn't be bolted all the way up because the suspension wouldn't compress enough without the drivetrain in. Paint still drying on new steering shock/stabilizer.
 

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Sure looks good. Do you ever plan on putting these things on the road?

When you mean clean the rotors with 4" grinder, do you smooth them out by hand instead of turning them? Should go CERAMIC pads no rusting dust. I love them they last a LONG LONG time, yet do less ROTOR wear.
 
Sure looks good. Do you ever plan on putting these things on the road?

When you mean clean the rotors with 4" grinder, do you smooth them out by hand instead of turning them? Should go CERAMIC pads no rusting dust. I love them they last a LONG LONG time, yet do less ROTOR wear.
The engine/trans/transfer case should be going back in sometime this week. Yes I plan on driving it.
I grind the rotors with either a grinding disc or 36 grit sandpaper:eek::thumbsup: Last I checked, they get over $30 to turn rotors/drums. The new[chineese no doubt]rotors cost $42. The meduim grade pads were $43. I was feeling poor, so I didn't spend $120 each for the cyro-treated slotted rotors and $70 for ceramic pads. Maybe next time.Had to save $ for the k47 air box:thumbsup:
 
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