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"599" project

Wouldn't be worth of it powdercoating the parts ?
I'm looking at the powdercoating set-ups. It will cost around $1000 :eek:for even a half-assed set-up. The effects you can do with it are stunning:thumbsup:It's on the wish list along with a much bigger blast cabinet.My shop expansion and insulation comes first.
 
Ya know, they say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure :)
The blown up trucks in my sig were bought that way. I haven't even so much as blown a head gasket in a 6.2 or 6.5. I did blow a head gasket in my 5.7 olds diesel engine when it had:eek: 370,000 miles on it.
 
Just wait till all the trucks have all "Alpine Diesels" in them, and you line them up with the hood(s) up........Now thats gonna' make a nice pic!
 
I'm curious about what primer you're using. Does it hold up under the heat over time?

And the color coat? I ask because I just paid some crazy dollars for the Alpine green (Volvo diesel) spray bombs at my local truck center.
 
I'm curious about what primer you're using. Does it hold up under the heat over time?

And the color coat? I ask because I just paid some crazy dollars for the Alpine green (Volvo diesel) spray bombs at my local truck center.
The paint i'm using is duplicolor engine paint with ceramic. The primer is duplicolor engine primer. The exhaust manifolds are :duplicolor High Heat primer and High heat paint. Everything except the exhaust manifolds has a minimum of 2 coats of clear on top of the color. I can't say about the durabulity of the duplicolor paint yet because I haven't run one with it very long yet. I'm shure the exhaust will need repainting in a few years. All the brackets, pulleys and manifolds were blasted with aluminum oxide before paint.
The pictures don't really show the depth of the shine because of the clearcoat.
I bought the last batch of duplicolor paint at napa. I paid $4.25 a can. I had been getting it from summit racing and paying $7 can plus shipping:mad2::mad2:. Luckily they couldn't get alpine green so I looked at my local napa:thumbsup:
 
Removing old engine

I spent a few hours trying to get the engine that's in the truck to start. It didn't sound right at all cranking. I had it poping and sputtering a few times, but it wouldn't start. I finally gave up and started pulling stuff off to pull the engine out. When I removed the plastic skid plate from the coresupport to the frame a piece of round aluminum fell out and on the floor. It looked similar to the lip around the front main crankshaft seal. Another odd thing was the tensioner had no tension on the belt. OK ,maybe the tensioner broke. The pulley on the vacume pump is bent:confused:. Looking in at the pulleys from the driver's side the water pump pulley and crank pulley look awful close together:confused::nonod:. I go undernieth and grab the crank pulley and the whole end if the crank moves around.:eek: I guess this is one of those 6.5s with the 2-piece crankshafts. The real carnage pics will have to wait untill the new engine is in and I scrap this one. Most times a broken crank is from a broken block or the other way around. Should be interesting to see if the heads got beat to hell from the crank moving around. What was strange was that it had over40psi oil pressure when it was turning over. I would have thought it would have been much less because of the broken crank.
 
Dang that sucks! Sorry to hear, it looked good though.
The engine with the 2 piece crank is the one that was in the truck when I bought it. The PO said it had a "rod knock". The pretty one is the replacement. I just wanted to hear the "rod knock" for myself. Broken flexplates are mistaken for rod knocks. Hoping I can salvage the heads off the old engine.
 
Got a few pics of today's progress on pulling the old engine. No real major snags. Tranny cooler line fitting to rad. siezed on the line is all. All the engine to tranny bolts are going to have to come out from below because of wiring,fuel line clamp and transfercase breather all in the way from above:rolleyes5:. The inner fender was rustier than it looked and will need to be replaced. This engine is a "599" block also.[94 could be a 599 or 929 block] Looking like it should be out later today.
 

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More pics
 

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Is that your way of removing a hood by yourself?? I'm a loner worker also, I like your style! I wouldn't trust any helpers around those top secret code named "ALPINE" blocks either... They gonna re-invent the 6.5!
 
Is that your way of removing a hood by yourself?? I'm a loner worker also, I like your style! I wouldn't trust any helpers around those top secret code named "ALPINE" blocks either... They gonna re-invent the 6.5!
Yep. That's how I get the hood off by myself. I had to put the foam pad on the boom to prevent any unwanted dents/scratches.:thumbsup: It works great!
As you can see by the licence plate ,The truck hasn't been driven since 03:eek: PO had it in a pole shed but the brakes got pretty rusted. It needs new rotors anyhow. One tranny cooler line rusted out also. It still has all original exhaust on it! It will have all new 4" exhaust. I ordered it yesterday:thumbsup:. I found out that Diamondeye doesn't make a crossover pipe.:mad2::mad2:I had to order that from warpspeed. I couldn't find a flowmaster crossover and I'm not overly impressed with the hearthrob piece.
 
The engine with the 2 piece crank is the one that was in the truck when I bought it. The PO said it had a "rod knock". The pretty one is the replacement. I just wanted to hear the "rod knock" for myself. Broken flexplates are mistaken for rod knocks. Hoping I can salvage the heads off the old engine.

OH!!! NVM then! I thought you were saying you put the new one in and it flew apart! Maybe I should read alittle closer.
 
Engine-trans-transfer case out in one piece

I got the rear driveshaft,exhaust, oil cooler lines, engine mounts and tranny mount off. I'm taking the engine-trans and transfer case all out because of a leaking seal between the tranny and transfer case that really overfilled the transfer case. This is a very heavy piece to lift with a engine hoist. The other problem is being able to lift high enough to clear the core support. My home made hoist is up to the task. It will lift to almost 10 ft. I did this before with a truck I junked ,so I know for shure it works :thumbsup: A load leveler is a must have to tip the engine to clear obsticles . Less than a hour and it is out.
Lots of cleaning and painting to do now:eek:
 

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I got the rear driveshaft,exhaust, oil cooler lines, engine mounts and tranny mount off. I'm taking the engine-trans and transfer case all out because of a leaking seal between the tranny and transfer case that really overfilled the transfer case. This is a very heavy piece to lift with a engine hoist. The other problem is being able to lift high enough to clear the core support. My home made hoist is up to the task. It will lift to almost 10 ft. I did this before with a truck I junked ,so I know for shure it works :thumbsup: A load leveler is a must have to tip the engine to clear obsticles . Less than a hour and it is out.
Lots of cleaning and painting to do now:eek:

WOW! :eek: That's a good chunk of metal!

Will you put the parts back in the same way?
 
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