• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

‘94 Transfer Case

MrMarty51 said:
PVC pipe and fittings makes for real good seal drivers.
I failed to mention, on the inside portion of the seal, where the tension spring lays in, fill that cavity with grease to keep that spring from bouncing out.
Then thoroughly coat the OD of the seal with No.1 permatex gasket sealer. The Permatex that comes in the bottle with the brush attached to the cap.
I have had seals leak, especially the ones with that enamel looking sealer painted to the OD of the seal. I also coat the ID of the seal bore with the No.1 also too.
Just added insurance.
Click to expand...
Too late for the OD. The seals are in. I have never had them leak on the OD, alway the ID where the seal material gets hard and sometimes cracks.

Now I am down to input bearing and rear seal, which have been ordered.
 
Big T said:
Too late for the OD. The seals are in. I have never had them leak on the OD, alway the ID where the seal material gets hard and sometimes cracks.

Now I am down to input bearing and rear seal, which have been ordered.
Click to expand...
That sleeve over the output shaft seals, keeps the road grime, rocks and chips wiped from the yoke before it slides into the new seal and destroys the sealing surfaces.
 
There should be some numbers on the old seal with the boot. usually national or SKF seal numbers. they will ether be on the rubber or on the metal lip of the seal and can be a bugger to read. you should be able to find them at the local auto parts house for the output seals. I have always preferred the ones with the boot to keep road grime from chewing on the sealing surfaces.
 
dbrannon79 said:
There should be some numbers on the old seal with the boot. usually national or SKF seal numbers. they will ether be on the rubber or on the metal lip of the seal and can be a bugger to read. you should be able to find them at the local auto parts house for the output seals. I have always preferred the ones with the boot to keep road grime from chewing on the sealing surfaces.
Click to expand...
JB said there were only two sizes and mine was the smaller one. There were a bit more than Amazon on the part, but I get certainty on the correct part and that was offset by them throwing in the pump screen (old had crap in it). Also got the correct bearing. So I should be good and it’s a matter of putting it back together with permatex. I’ll note they use grey on the cover over the input bearing and black on the case halves, so I will match that. Should be good to go.

I will probably need help pulling out the existing and lifting the replacement in the truck.
 
If i was closer to ya i would come and help. I'm sure if you video it, we can all cheer you on lol

all jokes aside, it's time to gather some youngsters in the area that want to learn. all you'd have to lift is your finger pointing and giving instruction.
 
DieselAmateur said:
Jeez sorry to hear all the seals were incorrect, what a mess. X2 on cleaning it up and sending back for the right parts.

I recommend Pertmatex Optimum Black for sealing the case halves. Have it on my case, rear diff cover and PTO cover plates, no issues to date

I also have a bushing/ race driver kit that I got off Amazon for around $50, really handy to have. I can't remember exactly what I used to drive out that bushing but I think I used an impact socket, see if your 36mm axle nut socket works. For installing put the new bushing in the freezer and use a dab of gear oil to smooth up the surface when driving it in
Click to expand...
I used to have an electric stove to put stuff on or in to warm up. Worked good in conjunction with the freezer.
 
all the times I've had to remove/ install it's been just bench press and congratulate oneself afterwards in lieu of having an audience 🤣

you might be able to use a trans jack to elevate it some, but it has to go up somewhat sideways to clear the torsion bar xmember before you can rotate it for proper orientation.

make sure to drain the oil of the old one before pulling. Even then you will still have some spill on you so watch your eyes and wear something already stained.

Without an extra set of hands it can be a bit tricky to get it installed with the gasket in place too. Either use a smaller bolt as an alignment pin to hang the gasket from and line up the case with, or use a dab of RTV/ sealant as a glue to hold the paper gasket in place during installation
 
DieselAmateur said:
all the times I've had to remove/ install it's been just bench press and congratulate oneself afterwards in lieu of having an audience 🤣

you might be able to use a trans jack to elevate it some, but it has to go up somewhat sideways to clear the torsion bar xmember before you can rotate it for proper orientation.

make sure to drain the oil of the old one before pulling. Even then you will still have some spill on you so watch your eyes and wear something already stained.

Without an extra set of hands it can be a bit tricky to get it installed with the gasket in place too. Either use a smaller bolt as an alignment pin to hang the gasket from and line up the case with, or use a dab of RTV/ sealant as a glue to hold the paper gasket in place during installation
Click to expand...
Do I leave the coupling piece on the transmission side?
 
Big T said:
Do I leave the coupling piece on the transmission side?
Click to expand...
Yes. Leave that on the transmission. Be sure to replace the double sided seal within before bolting it to the transmission. If the double sided seal is not available then install two seals with the spring side exposed when looking into either end. Those seals prevent fluid from flowing from the transmission to the transfer case.
I use one of these jacks and some various blocking to get the transfer case clocked to the approximate position before bolting it to the transmission.
www.harborfreight.com

1500 lb. Steel ATV/Motorcycle Lift

Amazing deals on this 1500Lb Steel Atv / Motorcycle Lift at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top