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‘94 Transfer Case

Be sure to pack the spring grooves of the seals with grease before pounding them into position. That will keep the springs from popping from their positions within the seals.
Also, be sure to use a sealant on the OD of the seals and also on the ID of the seal bores. That crappy paint they squirt on those seals is not a good sealant.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Be sure to pack the spring grooves of the seals with grease before pounding them into position. That will keep the springs from popping from their positions within the seals.
Also, be sure to use a sealant on the OD of the seals and also on the ID of the seal bores. That crappy paint they squirt on those seals is not a good sealant.
Click to expand...
I've always used a locktite product or similar on the outside of deals but only packed them in grease about half the time. That probably contributed to some of the new bad seals I installed
 
I'm sorry I can't speak to the details of the 4L80E. Here's a link to two gaskets offered by Torque King. I've used the wider one to seal the case to the manual trans. The other extension housing gasket pictured may be applicable to your situation. Give Torque King a call, they are very knowledgeable and have always been very helpful when I've called with questions

NP241C Gaskets 1988-1999 GM Left Drop Transfer Cases

Shop now for Gaskets for 1988-1999 GM NP241C Left Drop Transfer Cases. Great selection. In stock. Quick shipping.
torqueking.com torqueking.com

With regards to whether it needs replacing or not is a judgement call for you. If it's not leaking now it doesn't necessarily need to be replaced, but it sure is easier to do it now while you're there as preventive maintenance with the case already out of the way
 
yes replace the gasket and seals now. For handling it- i used to own an adapter similar to this. You lift out the round pad and drop this in place on your existing floor jack.

Then set up for transmission, transfer case, diffs, fuel tanks. Then you can drill holes in, add 1” ratchet strap if needed, weld brackets if needed.
Shop around for pricing. Buy steel not aluminum or stainless steel, Far easier to modify.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

IMG_7760.png
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Will L. said:
yes replace the gasket and seals now. For handling it- i used to own an adapter similar to this. You lift out the round pad and drop this in place on your existing floor jack.

Then set up for transmission, transfer case, diffs, fuel tanks. Then you can drill holes in, add 1” ratchet strap if needed, weld brackets if needed.
Shop around for pricing. Buy steel not aluminum or stainless steel, Far easier to modify.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

View attachment 81108
Click to expand...
You can also make bea 4 wheel turn dolly to set the floor jack on
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Yeah, like @Will L., I bought an adapter off of eBay that drops in and replaces the saddle pad on my floor jack. It has a lead screw that adjusts fore-aft tilt and one for side-side tilt, has long, angle adjustable arms at each corner to fit the cradle and two safety chains that secure the transmission/xfer case to the cradle. The cradle's capacity is listed at 750 lbs. With my 3½ Ton floor jack's lift reach, I haven't had any issues with getting to either the transmission or xfer case. It's also damn handy for dropping fuel tanks without having to siphon/pump 15 or 20 gallons of fuel out to drop them by hand.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Yeah, like @Will L., I bought an adapter off of eBay that drops in and replaces the saddle pad on my floor jack. It has a lead screw that adjusts fore-aft tilt and one for side-side tilt, has long, angle adjustable arms at each corner to fit the cradle and two safety chains that secure the transmission/xfer case to the cradle. The cradle's capacity is listed at 750 lbs. With my 3½ Ton floor jack's lift reach, I haven't had any issues with getting to either the transmission or xfer case. It's also damn handy for dropping fuel tanks without having to siphon/pump 15 or 20 gallons of fuel out to drop them by hand.
Click to expand...
I found the one Will posted for less on eBay. Same 1100 lb capacity rating. Unfortunately, it will arrive on Monday. Just means I stop at reassembly completion, which should be quick. Then there’s always yardwork.
 
DieselAmateur said:
I got my replacement oil pump here

www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com

NP231 NP233 NP241 NP242 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OIL PUMP 38-spline 4338936 (16209)

np231 np233 np241 np242 np243 4338936 transfer case pump mopar 16209 351500
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com

at about 6:20 of this video you can see the oil pump on the output shaft and how the tabs on the oil pump are on the top surface of the case half being removed. The cover that came off the top of this case half has slots that align with the pump tabs. As I mentioned earlier the pump has enough play to have a tab slide under the large case half, which will make mating the two main halves together impossible and forcing it will cause the tab to snap off


Input shaft bearing seen at 8:52, yes it's right there in the case half that mates to the transmission. You want to measure the thickness of the bearing; the diameter is the same, it's the "height" of the bearing that needs to match the input shaft. Here's a side by side picture of the two different bearings on corresponding shafts

torqueking.com

IDN-401 NP231, NP233, NP241, NP242 Input Bearing Width Tech Help

Read input bearing width tech help information at Torque King. Our input bearing width help is for NP231, NP233, NP241, and NP242 series transfer cases. Browse input bearing width tech help information for free today.
torqueking.com torqueking.com

I didn't do bearings on mine, but I know some of the bearings will need a blind hole bearing puller. I've never tried using bread in lieu of grease and only once tried using grease and a tight bolt to remove a bearing in a blind hole and it just made a mess so I cut it out carefully. You might be able to rent a bearing puller kit from an auto parts store if you don't want to invest in one

I have a bearing race driver kit that I used for pressing out seals, but a socket with slightly smaller diameter than seal also works just as well
Click to expand...
At 8:47 of the video it looks like the C-clip on the input bearing is on the outside of the case. Bearing is flush on the inside.
 
Rear output on existing:
IMG_3759.jpeg

Looks like I need to detach driveshaft at the rear axle and slide the whole thing off the transfer case output. If that’s the case, I might as well install the GMT-800 rear axle with disc brakes while I’m doing this.

IMG_3760.jpeg
IMG_3761.jpeg
 
Husker6.5 said:
I remember that thread on here, that was a couple of years back, or so, wasn't it?
Click to expand...
Yes, a lot intervened between then and now. First, it was my son’s truck and he was less motivated to do this work as his free time is consumed by his young kids (our grandkids). He bought a 2017 F-250 diesel which has been very reliable. We bought the ranch in Montana. Covid interruptus.

Now the truck is mine. My wife wants to do major hard scaping and landscaping projects on the Fullerton home, so she wants sh!t out of the yard. Transmission went into my ‘99 Suburban when its transmission showed signs of failure. This axle was always intended for the ‘94 and will now go on it. Just clearing the slate of projects.
 
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