Big T
Well-Known Member
Tags from the ‘94 and ‘95, respectively:
-
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‘94 Transfer Case
- Thread starter Big T
- Start date
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
I think the kit looks like a solid & quality package
There is the spline difference, and different input shaft bearing sizes between the 94 and 95 model years. I think the cases will swap into the truck no problem. But if you want to rebuild the spare 95 it's best to open it up first and verify input shaft bearing size and the chain width & number of links. That way you know for sure what rebuild kit to get
There is the spline difference, and different input shaft bearing sizes between the 94 and 95 model years. I think the cases will swap into the truck no problem. But if you want to rebuild the spare 95 it's best to open it up first and verify input shaft bearing size and the chain width & number of links. That way you know for sure what rebuild kit to get
jrsavoie
Recruit
Will do. Is there an easy way to check without counting?
Big T
Well-Known Member
Take a pic and start counting?
I etched a scratch in one groove and moved a screwdriver over the splines counting until I got back to the etch. Pretty easy.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I was hoping there was a number on the tag. Even easier, if that was the case.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Nope. I guess you could measure it?
I went out and measured it with the calipers and got an ID measurement of 32.5 to 33.0 mm
jrsavoie
Recruit
Measuring only works if the splined are the same size as opposed to the shaft.
The Toro's have a fine and course spline on the same diameter shaft.
I'll get counting when I get outside.
I sometimes have trouble with numbers bigger than 4
Big T
Well-Known Member
I was tempted to split the case today, but I just e-mailed the vendor instead, including the pic of the model tag. They should know w/o my having to split the case. I don’t want to get all dirty just before family comes over.
I reviewed a bunch of how to videos on rebuilding the NP 214 C and it seems rather simple. I’m guessing the seal that leaks is on the input shaft as they say that it is prone to getting brittle. Will I need to press seals and bearings in or can they be tapped in with an appropriate sized wheel bearing tool and a mallet?
jrsavoie
Recruit
32 spline. Looked to be about 34 mm OD to me
Attachments
jrsavoie
Recruit
The input measures about 30.4 mm at the outside of the spline according to my harbor freight digital caliper that I don't trust for anything.
48.43 OD.
Attachments
Big T
Well-Known Member
I measured between splines. Harbor Freight digital. 32 spine is pretty much what our Chevy’s got.
Big T
Well-Known Member
I punted on splitting the ‘95 case on Thanksgiving. Went shooting with my son on Friday left for Montana on Saturday. Vendor messaged back they would need the VIN# to get the right rebuild kit for the transfer case. Easy to get the VIN# off the ‘94, but the ‘95 wreck is long gone. Texted my son to see if he still has and paperwork on it and he did. Hooray!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Get out the engraver and put that vin number on the case. while going through it.
That’ll help you & whoever in the future..
That’ll help you & whoever in the future..
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
94/95 was a crossover year for that transfer case, so still probably best to split it to find what size input bearing it has. As far as I know you can't decipher model year from the tag on the 241, which is probably why the vendor went by VIN
I've split a 241 open several times, they are really simple and not difficult to work on when it comes to seals, chain, and some bearings. There's a few blind hole bearings that will need some kind of puller if you want to go that deep into it. Some just leave the bearings and do the seals, plastic tabs on the shift fork and call it good. Getting the rear output shaft assembled is a bit tricky with the oil pump sliding around and pickup tube easily dislodged. Just take it easy going back together and you'll be good.
I don't see this bushing in the rebuild kit, it's for the tail housing, link if you want to go the extra mile
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
Also I suggest this upgraded snap ring as part of the output shaft assembly, much sturdier than factory and prevents future problems of the slip yoke repeatedly slamming into the single snap ring
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
Finally when re-sealing everything Permatex Optimum Black is my recommendation, a hard gasket maker did not play nice with my case. I use Optimum black on pretty much everything with great results. I also run TriboDyn 75W90 gear oil in my case instead of ATF, but I'm putting a lot more abuse on my rig so either would be fine for your application
I've split a 241 open several times, they are really simple and not difficult to work on when it comes to seals, chain, and some bearings. There's a few blind hole bearings that will need some kind of puller if you want to go that deep into it. Some just leave the bearings and do the seals, plastic tabs on the shift fork and call it good. Getting the rear output shaft assembled is a bit tricky with the oil pump sliding around and pickup tube easily dislodged. Just take it easy going back together and you'll be good.
I don't see this bushing in the rebuild kit, it's for the tail housing, link if you want to go the extra mile
BW4444 BW4445 BW4485 MP1222LD MP3023LD NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP236 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 8L90 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62)
BW4444 BW4445 MP1222LD MP3023LD NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62)
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
Also I suggest this upgraded snap ring as part of the output shaft assembly, much sturdier than factory and prevents future problems of the slip yoke repeatedly slamming into the single snap ring
NP231 NP233 NP241 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT BEARING SPLIT RING RETAINER KIT FITS MODELS WITH 32-SPLINE 1.375" SHAFT BY SONNAX
NP231 NP233 NP241 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT BEARING SPLIT RING RETAINER KIT FITS MODELS WITH 32-SPLINE 1.375" SHAFT BY SONNAX
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
Finally when re-sealing everything Permatex Optimum Black is my recommendation, a hard gasket maker did not play nice with my case. I use Optimum black on pretty much everything with great results. I also run TriboDyn 75W90 gear oil in my case instead of ATF, but I'm putting a lot more abuse on my rig so either would be fine for your application
Big T
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Is there another vendor that sells a more complete kit?94/95 was a crossover year for that transfer case, so still probably best to split it to find what size input bearing it has. As far as I know you can't decipher model year from the tag on the 241, which is probably why the vendor went by VIN
I've split a 241 open several times, they are really simple and not difficult to work on when it comes to seals, chain, and some bearings. There's a few blind hole bearings that will need some kind of puller if you want to go that deep into it. Some just leave the bearings and do the seals, plastic tabs on the shift fork and call it good. Getting the rear output shaft assembled is a bit tricky with the oil pump sliding around and pickup tube easily dislodged. Just take it easy going back together and you'll be good.
I don't see this bushing in the rebuild kit, it's for the tail housing, link if you want to go the extra mile
BW4444 BW4445 BW4485 MP1222LD MP3023LD NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP236 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 8L90 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62)
BW4444 BW4445 MP1222LD MP3023LD NP246 NP149 NP136 NP208 NP231 NP241 NP261 NP263 MUNCIE SUPER T10 TRANSMISSION & TRANSFER CASE EXTENSION HOUSING BUSHING (WT297-62)
Also I suggest this upgraded snap ring as part of the output shaft assembly, much sturdier than factory and prevents future problems of the slip yoke repeatedly slamming into the single snap ring
NP231 NP233 NP241 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT BEARING SPLIT RING RETAINER KIT FITS MODELS WITH 32-SPLINE 1.375" SHAFT BY SONNAX
NP231 NP233 NP241 NP243 TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT BEARING SPLIT RING RETAINER KIT FITS MODELS WITH 32-SPLINE 1.375" SHAFT BY SONNAX
Finally when re-sealing everything Permatex Optimum Black is my recommendation, a hard gasket maker did not play nice with my case. I use Optimum black on pretty much everything with great results. I also run TriboDyn 75W90 gear oil in my case instead of ATF, but I'm putting a lot more abuse on my rig so either would be fine for your application
Here’s the paperwork for the ‘95 with the VIN#:
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
I purchased a few kits and a chain from Transmissionpartsdistributors.com as I couldn't find a kit like the one you found (didn't really look too hard on ebay I guess) and it seemed to be a bit cheaper to buy the bearing and seals kit, the small parts kit, and the chain to make my own kit
I got the bearing and seals kit for '95: (note if you need the larger input bearing for '94 the SKU is BK241)
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
The small parts kit:
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
and the chain:
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
I also had to get the bushing I linked to earlier separately as it doesn't seem to be considered an internal wear part.
As I'm sure you've read about these rebuilds, one of the first things that wears out is the plastic tabs on the shift fork. Which is essentially why I got the small parts kit. You can also see in the small parts kit how feeble the snap rings are, don't even have tabs on them for snap ring pliers, which is why I really recommend the upgraded ring for the output.
I still haven't torn into my grenaded unit, but when I pulled the shift selector sensor it was covered in fine shavings so who knows what kind of grinding was going on. If you split the case and everything looks really good inside you could probably get away with just replacing the chain, plastic tabs and seals as the bearings are known to hold up for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I got the bearing and seals kit for '95: (note if you need the larger input bearing for '94 the SKU is BK241)
NP241 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT FITS '95-'99 GM & '94-'01 DODGE LD WITH 16mm THICK 6010-N INPUT BEARING (BK241A)
NP241 transfer case rebuild kit BK241A 16mm input bearing gm chevy dodge
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
The small parts kit:
NP241 NP241C NP241D NP241DHD NV241 NV241J NV241OR TRANSFER CASE SMALL PARTS KIT: SNAP RINGS, WASHERS, FORK INSERTS ETC FITS '88+ CHEVY GMC JEEP & DODGE (SP241-50)
NP241 NP241C NP241C NP241DHD TRANSFER CASE SMALL PARTS KIT: SNAP RINGS, WASHERS, FORK INSERTS ETC FITS '88+ CHEVY GMC JEEP & DODGE (SP241-50)
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
and the chain:
NP208 NP241C NP241D NP243C BW1370 BW4401 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN 1.25" WIDE FITS CHEVY GMC DODGE JEEP BORG-WARNER HV-025
NP208 NP241C NP243C BW1370 BW4401 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN 1.25" WIDE FITS CHEVY GMC DODGE JEEP BORG-WARNER HV-025
www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
I also had to get the bushing I linked to earlier separately as it doesn't seem to be considered an internal wear part.
As I'm sure you've read about these rebuilds, one of the first things that wears out is the plastic tabs on the shift fork. Which is essentially why I got the small parts kit. You can also see in the small parts kit how feeble the snap rings are, don't even have tabs on them for snap ring pliers, which is why I really recommend the upgraded ring for the output.
I still haven't torn into my grenaded unit, but when I pulled the shift selector sensor it was covered in fine shavings so who knows what kind of grinding was going on. If you split the case and everything looks really good inside you could probably get away with just replacing the chain, plastic tabs and seals as the bearings are known to hold up for hundreds of thousands of miles.
Big T
Well-Known Member
I’ve watched a number of videos on this and it does seem pretty simple, but I do have questions.I purchased a few kits and a chain from Transmissionpartsdistributors.com as I couldn't find a kit like the one you found (didn't really look too hard on ebay I guess) and it seemed to be a bit cheaper to buy the bearing and seals kit, the small parts kit, and the chain to make my own kit
I got the bearing and seals kit for '95: (note if you need the larger input bearing for '94 the SKU is BK241)
NP241 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD KIT FITS '95-'99 GM & '94-'01 DODGE LD WITH 16mm THICK 6010-N INPUT BEARING (BK241A)
NP241 transfer case rebuild kit BK241A 16mm input bearing gm chevy dodge
The small parts kit:
NP241 NP241C NP241D NP241DHD NV241 NV241J NV241OR TRANSFER CASE SMALL PARTS KIT: SNAP RINGS, WASHERS, FORK INSERTS ETC FITS '88+ CHEVY GMC JEEP & DODGE (SP241-50)
NP241 NP241C NP241C NP241DHD TRANSFER CASE SMALL PARTS KIT: SNAP RINGS, WASHERS, FORK INSERTS ETC FITS '88+ CHEVY GMC JEEP & DODGE (SP241-50)
and the chain:
NP208 NP241C NP241D NP243C BW1370 BW4401 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN 1.25" WIDE FITS CHEVY GMC DODGE JEEP BORG-WARNER HV-025
NP208 NP241C NP243C BW1370 BW4401 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN 1.25" WIDE FITS CHEVY GMC DODGE JEEP BORG-WARNER HV-025
I also had to get the bushing I linked to earlier separately as it doesn't seem to be considered an internal wear part.
As I'm sure you've read about these rebuilds, one of the first things that wears out is the plastic tabs on the shift fork. Which is essentially why I got the small parts kit. You can also see in the small parts kit how feeble the snap rings are, don't even have tabs on them for snap ring pliers, which is why I really recommend the upgraded ring for the output.
I still haven't torn into my grenaded unit, but when I pulled the shift selector sensor it was covered in fine shavings so who knows what kind of grinding was going on. If you split the case and everything looks really good inside you could probably get away with just replacing the chain, plastic tabs and seals as the bearings are known to hold up for hundreds of thousands of miles.
One video the guy was converting from a NP 246 to a NP 241 C and he had to move the torsion bar crossmember to drop the transfer case. Is that pretty typical?
Few if any of the videos show replacing the pump. None of the kits include a pump. Is it typical to not replace the pump?
I suspect some of the bearings people pass on replacing are for the shift shaft.
I do like the Borg Warner chain, as the name gives me confidence.
DieselAmateur
She ain't revved 'til the rods are thrown...
I can't speak to swapping from a 246 to a 241. I've never had to do anything with the torsion bar crossmember when pulling my case off the manual trans. It is a PIA to pull and reinstall as you essentially have to bench press the thing up sideways and then once above the crossmember rotate it to align with the transmission
You don't need to replace the pump; it's on a shaft but somewhat loose, it has 4 tabs that rest on a face of the rear housing assembly. It's somewhat hard to explain but basically it's possible for the pump to slide within the large opening of the housing and have one of the tabs on the wrong side of the opening, preventing the case from fully sealing. I learned this the hard way when my two halves wouldn't close tightly, and tightening the case together snapped off one of the supporting tabs, which meant replacing the pump. Aside from that, just make sure the pump pickup tube stays in place when it all goes back together, you'll see what I mean one you open it up. If you run into any issues/ questions just post pictures here and I'll do what I can to help.
I felt the same way about the Borg Warner Chain
One more thing- at least on my manual transmission, getting to the top most bolt of the t-case (where it's mounted to the transmission) was incredibly difficult. Get yourself a ratcheting 15mm flex head wrench, it's really tight up there and done mostly by feel
You don't need to replace the pump; it's on a shaft but somewhat loose, it has 4 tabs that rest on a face of the rear housing assembly. It's somewhat hard to explain but basically it's possible for the pump to slide within the large opening of the housing and have one of the tabs on the wrong side of the opening, preventing the case from fully sealing. I learned this the hard way when my two halves wouldn't close tightly, and tightening the case together snapped off one of the supporting tabs, which meant replacing the pump. Aside from that, just make sure the pump pickup tube stays in place when it all goes back together, you'll see what I mean one you open it up. If you run into any issues/ questions just post pictures here and I'll do what I can to help.
I felt the same way about the Borg Warner Chain
One more thing- at least on my manual transmission, getting to the top most bolt of the t-case (where it's mounted to the transmission) was incredibly difficult. Get yourself a ratcheting 15mm flex head wrench, it's really tight up there and done mostly by feel
Big T
Well-Known Member
Sent the ‘95 VIN # to the eBay vendor and got the boiler plate response:
Verify your chain prior to your purchase.
Your NP 241 case may have any 1 of 3 1.25" wide chains.
(36 links, 42 links, or 49 links)
I will be back down to Fullerton in February, so this project won’t happen for awhile.
Verify your chain prior to your purchase.
Your NP 241 case may have any 1 of 3 1.25" wide chains.
(36 links, 42 links, or 49 links)
I will be back down to Fullerton in February, so this project won’t happen for awhile.
Bowhunterbrown
Member
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 79
Give JB Conversions a call. I got a complete rebuild kit from them awhile back when I rebuilt a 241-c for swapping in place of my 246. Quality parts and great service. Cost is a little higher than comparable kits on ebay, but wmore than likely you will be talking to the owner when you call and he can help you determine which kit you need.
Get yourself a big external snap ring plyers, which you probably know if you have been watching rebuild videos.
Use a gasket maker/sealer that you trust when reassembling the two halves.
Probably a rare case, but I had to track down a main shaft to replace the one in the 241 as it had one of the big snap ring grooves worn out real wide. Came from behind a 6.5 with broken crank so maybe that was it. It was a pain in the butt because I had to get it reassembled and didnt notice the main shaft was bad until the day I went to assemble it.
Anyway, its not too hard a project.
Get yourself a big external snap ring plyers, which you probably know if you have been watching rebuild videos.
Use a gasket maker/sealer that you trust when reassembling the two halves.
Probably a rare case, but I had to track down a main shaft to replace the one in the 241 as it had one of the big snap ring grooves worn out real wide. Came from behind a 6.5 with broken crank so maybe that was it. It was a pain in the butt because I had to get it reassembled and didnt notice the main shaft was bad until the day I went to assemble it.
Anyway, its not too hard a project.