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The easiest way to supply the turbo oil in a 6.2 is to put a T in at the rear where the oil pressure switch goes. Nipple into block and T, OPS into one hole, Turbo oil line other hole.

Amazon runs storefronts for any number of businesses.

Find out what is included in the kit your buddy can get. His kit might include parts the e-bay ones don't.

Diesel Depot likes using the early 6.2s for their builds.

Not always. The early 6.2s had a 2 piece rear main seal thus a different oil pan. The later 6.2s used the same block as the 6.5 and have a 1 piece seal.

Did you take a look at your harmonic balancer while you were replacing the crank pulley. They have a bad habit of failing also. And not too long after they fail the crank breaks.

Deere are you talking about upper or lower joints? The upper joint is a bolt/rivet on piece. The lower (atleast with the cast/forged a-arm) is a press in piece.

Yes, buy one of the remote mount kits with heat sink, pmd and extended cable. Unplug the heatsink in the stock location and plug in the extension cable. Leave the old PMD in place, not going to hurt anything. If you have just replaced the IP with a new one having a new PMD on pump or just...

With all the metal that potentially went into the system with what you had break you may want to get a new oil cooler. They are extremely hard to get everything cleaned out. Also potential warranty issue if you don't replace.

Take a close look at the valve covers that came on the block. They may not even have gaskets installed. My motor came with either a tag on the valve covers or a sheet of paper in with the other stuff saying the valve covers currently installed were for transport only to replace before...

May have been off on the price. Book time for one lower ball joint for a K3500 is 2.9 hours. If you can do it in 20 min more power to you. Took a look and for a C3500 it's only .8 hour, a big difference.

Around here you see the automatic chains on fire trucks and ambulances alot.

Also check your crank pulley and balancer.

You may have been in a fight with Diesel Depot for them. If you don't mind PM me what they went for. Can always use a ball park to get started in.

I rebuilt my front suspension over the summer, with the exception of the LCA bushings. I used the High grade NAPA components (made in US believe by Spicer) Upper Control Arm bushings were a little fun but doable. Used an adjustable pitman arm puller to remove the bushing. It took borrowing an...

Go with the old style solid pilot bearing. They don't sieze and tear up the snout of the input shaft.

I'd intended to drop a round bale in the bed before this last 12" of snow. It got here before I got off work and I couldn't get the tractor out to load it. Had to make do with a bed full of snow, 4x4 and chains on one pair of the duals. I was breaking trail on the way to work the next day and...

Look around and see what you see the most of in your area. That's a good indication of what your neighbors think of the local dealers. I've only dealt with our local MF dealer a couple times for my uncle's tractor. Most of the tractors in my area are JD or Ford. Both of those dealers have good...

See the bottom pic in this post http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=231131&postcount=36 It will also have the RPO code K47 in the glove box

Can't complain about mine. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showpost.php?p=98725&postcount=14 Slim is running a 18:1 one also.