What am I forgeting?

[jmiller]

As I prepare to install my new motor, what should I fix, check, verify before it goes in?

Move PMD to Bumper
- Have parts to build extension cable
Wash radiator at car wash ( it was full of bugs and crud)
- Straighten bent core fins
Engine oil cooler
- Clean oil cooler
- Install new cooler lines
Service transmission
- drain Torque converter
- install new input seal
- new filter
- Fix hack cooler line repair
New block heater
- add second heater
New motor mounts
Verify alternators and batteries



Injectors have less than 20K
Injection pump is unknow, no service waranty record of a pump replacement.


Add ideas of things I've missed.

Thanks

 

[packratt]

With all the metal that potentially went into the system with what you had break you may want to get a new oil cooler. They are extremely hard to get everything cleaned out. Also potential warranty issue if you don't replace.

 

[bk95td]

Get the oil cooler/lines kit from lubrication specialist or pmd cable. Old cooler couldn't be cleaned internally anyhow. With second block heater a new custom starter bracket may be needed. Custom 2/0 battery cables. Any steering parts that may need replacing[pitman and idler arms don't get any easier than with the engine out]

 

[schiker]

New ground wire from frame to engine. Clean connections and other grounds etc. Clean up the fuse box and wiring. Add some more heat protection to cabling near starter / manifold area(s). I found some melted loom (wires were ok). Be careful not to get too bulky the room shrinks to tight once engine is back in place.

 

[3bals]

I read a post awhile back about a guy with a yellow painted block that ground all the sharp edges of the block where wires could rub.

 

[ak diesel driver]

that was Diesel Slug

 

[SmithvilleD]

Also a great time to run any gauge plumbing thru the firewall.

Much easier to punch proper holes, use grommets/sealer etc., without the engine in the way.

 

[jmiller]

Also a great time to run any gauge plumbing thru the firewall.

Much easier to punch proper holes, use grommets/sealer etc., without the engine in the way.

Agreed, There are several gauges I'd like to add. I also want to run some 0 gauge welder cables into the cab to power my inverter. But funds preclude any of those for a while.

 

[jmiller]

With all the metal that potentially went into the system with what you had break you may want to get a new oil cooler. They are extremely hard to get everything cleaned out. Also potential warranty issue if you don't replace.

I put some amonia based engine degreaser the oil cooler and sloshed that around. I took a trip to the car wash with it and the radiator.

I ran the car wash engine degreasr through both ports. The cooler set, while I cleaned the radiator. Then ran the high pressure hot soapy water through both ports quite a few times. I had a 1' fountian of water from the other port. Then repeated this with clear water.

The inside looks to be clean and clear with no signs of any oil.

Get the oil cooler/lines kit from lubrication specialist or pmd cable. Old cooler couldn't be cleaned internally anyhow. With second block heater a new custom starter bracket may be needed. Custom 2/0 battery cables. Any steering parts that may need replacing[pitman and idler arms don't get any easier than with the engine out]

I took your lead and modifed my starter bracket. It was much easier to do out of the engine bay.

I had just replaced the pitman and idler arms two weeks before the engine broke.

 

[SmithvilleD]

Believe Veg Out mentioned on another thread considering replacing all the hard to get at fuel lines around/under the intake, and maybe doing the FTB mod.

On the heavier gauge wire to supply a power inverter, there are other routes to get the power into the cab, that aren't necessarily much harder to do, after the engine's in.

I ran my stereo amp power cables (w/ some protective sheathing) from the driver's side batt (side terminal) along the inner fender, 'til heading down towards the top of the frame. Then along the top or just inside the frame until somewhere about as far back as the driver's side seat belt reel, except more towards the center.

On my reb cab, there was some type of grommeted hole already there. Passed the cable thru there & then sealed it up w/ some of the black windshield sealer.

As long as that lead is appropriately fused close to the battery & has reasonable protection around it, this approach should work fine & be easier than going thru the firewall. Particularly if you happen to mount the inverter under the seats.

For the heavy wire itself, the wide availability of the heavier cables has a lot more folks using it for stereo amp installs. In the past few years, I've started to see more of it in salvage yard cars. Just another thing to look for while hunting the local Pick-n-Pull. Sometimes good qual wire can be found at a bargain there.