6.5 2WD suspension question

[VW_Lupo_TD]

just looking at what would come up in terms of Preventative Maintenance next I am wondering what you guys would recommend to do suspension wise:

( I already did the passenger side U-joints, so I will do the driver side and all this at the same time )

- OE parts
- MOOG parts (advance or such)
- aftermarket / high performance (is there such a thing for this?)

?

I have priced some OE parts

Pittman arm--$88.24
Idler arm--$101.66
Tie rods (inner $65.10 each)
Tie rods (outer $65.10 each)
Sleeves--$20.46 each.

do not necessarily want to save money on getting cheaper stuff, but stuff that will last (and will pay for that of course).

 

[625fireman]

I have used the MOOG parts seem to be holding up rather well. The only thing that I have found some of the manufacturers "heavy Duty" stuff is not greaseable. I would not go with ungreaseable units on a daily driver though. If you grease em when you change the oil it should never be an issue. As Nick I'm willing to bet that you do exactly that .):h

 

[VW_Lupo_TD]

so what makes the HD stuff HD ?

I have not been able to take care of my things as good as I would expect from myself.
(also a reason for thinking about selling even though it sounds very cliche, but it is true,
cannot sleep well at night knowing i am not taking care of it 110%)
Hence the bad conscience and the ordering of all new stuff and replacing everything...

but I guess my paranoia precedes me and people know I am anal with my stuff ;-)

 

[BigBlueChevy]

I was in the same position about 6 months ago. Now here is my question - How much of the front end do you plan on rebuilding? Do you plan on doing it yourself or has someone else do it?

If you plan on doing it yourself the savings will be huge, if not, expect to pay above a grand in having it done. Your also going to want to consider replacing your ball joints given everything else you mention, as well as bushings on the upper and lower A arms and the sway bar, the "cushion" on the top of the coil springs, and new shocks.
I'd recommend you doing it yourself since you seem more than capable of turning a wrench.






cough... or do a solid axle swap...cough

 

[625fireman]

I can only assume that the HD stuff is HD because it is "soild" (no drilled passages for grease). But I have never used them cause i would rather be able grease it. As for the bushings if you do decide to do them I would see if you can get a good urethane set. I did this on my Monte a few years ago and the ride is totaly different.


"but I guess my paranoia precedes me and people know I am anal with my stuff ;-)"
Only meeting you once but working with you and seeing the burb I would have to agree with you your reputation proceeds you.oke:

 

[VW_Lupo_TD]

I was in the same position about 6 months ago. Now here is my question - How much of the front end do you plan on rebuilding? Do you plan on doing it yourself or has someone else do it?

I guess my OCD will get the best of me and I will just go ahead and do everything while I am at it. I wish I had the capability of being able to trust someone with this. The U joints were done at a GM dealership where a friend of mine works during "night shift) just so I can watch every step ;-)
I drove them guys nuts!

So yes I plan on collecting all the parts per recommendation from you guys and then spend the entire next weekend on this.

If you plan on doing it yourself the savings will be huge, if not, expect to pay above a grand in having it done. Your also going to want to consider replacing your ball joints given everything else you mention, as well as bushings on the upper and lower A arms and the sway bar, the "cushion" on the top of the coil springs, and new shocks.
I'd recommend you doing it yourself since you seem more than capable of turning a wrench.

i agree and am wondering whether or not I could do bushings on A arms by myself - i have done BMWs and Porsches and assume it cannot be more over engineered than that (jk) so it should be like everything else made to be done with a BFH - right ?

The shocks are Bilstein HD that i put in around 165k, I have to see what they look like....

cough... or do a solid axle swap...cough

As someone that appreciates the IFS I would have to ask what advantages you would see in that ?

I can only assume that the HD stuff is HD because it is "soild" (no drilled passages for grease). But I have never used them cause i would rather be able grease it. As for the bushings if you do decide to do them I would see if you can get a good urethane set. I did this on my Monte a few years ago and the ride is totaly different.


"but I guess my paranoia precedes me and people know I am anal with my stuff ;-)"
Only meeting you once but working with you and seeing the burb I would have to agree with you your reputation proceeds you.oke:

I will check for poly bushings while I am at it. any recommendations where to check ?

LOL !
Around here they do call me OGRE - that is true....

polygraphite :

http://www.p-s-t.com/c-220-front-end-kits-polygraphite.aspx
http://www.p-s-t.com/c-593-polygraphite-front-control-arm-bushings.aspx

2WD front control arm set $99 :

http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-4274-593-chevrolet-gmc-pickup-2wd-12-ton-1973-98-34-and-1-ton-1988-01.aspx

here is the whole set incl. control arms for $289
Polygraphite® Kit Includes:
* 2 Upper Ball Joints
* 2 Lower Ball Joints
* 2 Outer Tie Rods
* 4 Polygraphite® Control Arm Bushings
* 2 Upper Control Arm Bumpers
* 2 Lower Control Arm Bumpers

http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-1736-220-chevrolet-gmc-34-ton-pickup-2wd-1992-99.aspx

throw in some HD sway bars :
http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-4204-237-chevrolet-gmc-suburban-yukon-xl-1500-2500-3500-2wd-1973-07.aspx

 

[iamdave0887]

I've heard good things about the poly graphite replacements.

That's what i plan on using for body mounts on the blazer as well as any and all other bushings that I'll have to replace(pretty much all of them). Same goes for the pickup.

 

[625fireman]

The PST is what I have used very happy with them.

 

[bk95td]

I bought a kit from psc? in arizona. Very dissapionted in quality. They sent me the wrong lower ball joints 3 times. Moog oe soluitions from rock auto or Napa premium is all I will use now. Energy suspension bushings from summit racing. I replaced every moving part in my 95 k2500LD. Would be very difficult to do in a weekend.

 

[VW_Lupo_TD]

I used PST back in the day when I still drove Detroit Iron and was not "enlightened" yet

(stop rolling your eyes, i still drive Detroit Iron for a truck ;-))

PST is in NY i believe.
Difficult to do in a weekend ?
with out without cleaning every tool after every use ;-)
It does not have to be fast - i should have found a one owner grandma driven low mile honda or toyota winter beater car by then.

 

[packratt]

I rebuilt my front suspension over the summer, with the exception of the LCA bushings.

I used the High grade NAPA components (made in US believe by Spicer)

Upper Control Arm bushings were a little fun but doable. Used an adjustable pitman arm puller to remove the bushing. It took borrowing an antique bushing driver (probably 40 years old) and a BF hammer to install them. You could find a piece of pipe that is the correct diameter and make a driver to install them.

I had a shop do the lower ball joints. IIRC was about $350 plus parts for each of them.

 

[bk95td]

For a little over a hundred bucks you can buy a otc [good quality] ball joint tool to do the lower ball joints. Or you could possibly rent one at a rental shop. $350 each to have them installed is crazy. It can be done in 20 minutes per side with a ball joint tool.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I did mine with a harbor freight tool

 

[BigBlueChevy]

i agree and am wondering whether or not I could do bushings on A arms by myself - i have done BMWs and Porsches and assume it cannot be more over engineered than that (jk) so it should be like everything else made to be done with a BFH - right ?




The shocks are Bilstein HD that i put in around 165k, I have to see what they look like....




As someone that appreciates the IFS I would have to ask what advantages you would see in that ?

BFH, or a hole saw believe it or not. That's how i got the old bushings out of the leaf springs. took a 1" hole saw and went right through them, then used a slag chisel to pry the rest out. Though most of the IFS removal process, and some of the install required a BFH. Man best friend when it comes to working on vehicles. Aside from cold beer:thumbsup:



The Bilsteins are pretty nice and from what I've heard they last pretty long. but I guess if your gonna rebuild the whole front end maybe add new shocks too?



I was quite a believer in the IFS myself. That is... before I converted over Now granite my IFS rode like crap before it got shown the door. Now that the solid axle is in the truck not only looks better, but rides like a dream. It feels a lot more sturdy, and with the roads sucking as much as they do around here, the long / flexible leaf springs really make a difference. There just wasn't enough enough travel in the system for me. Now I can't complain.

I'm just busting chops I tell everybody with a GM that has questions about front suspension to do a solid axle swap. Call it... bragging rights, if you will

 

[bk95td]

I too used a hole saw to get the bushings out of the shell because you have to re-use the shell. For some stupid reason the polyurethane bushings don't come with the tin shells. BFH is your best friend.

 

[packratt]

For a little over a hundred bucks you can buy a otc [good quality] ball joint tool to do the lower ball joints. Or you could possibly rent one at a rental shop. $350 each to have them installed is crazy. It can be done in 20 minutes per side with a ball joint tool.

May have been off on the price. Book time for one lower ball joint for a K3500 is 2.9 hours. If you can do it in 20 min more power to you.

Took a look and for a C3500 it's only .8 hour, a big difference.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I just did mine took about 2 hrs

 

[ak diesel driver]

I could probaly cut that by a third if I did several in a row. But then I might run into 1 with a rusted on hub.

 

[GM Guy]

May have been off on the price. Book time for one lower ball joint for a K3500 is 2.9 hours. If you can do it in 20 min more power to you.

Took a look and for a C3500 it's only .8 hour, a big difference.

Nuff said!

But to make you K series guys feel better, i basically got stuck in a paved parking lot the other day. (rocked and got out, but still took five minutes)

But to stay on topic, I have heard good about Moog components, but i may end up going through rock auto for some delco stuff.

 

[DEERE3594]

For a little over a hundred bucks you can buy a otc [good quality] ball joint tool to do the lower ball joints. Or you could possibly rent one at a rental shop. $350 each to have them installed is crazy. It can be done in 20 minutes per side with a ball joint tool.

What does the tool do? I have done ball joints on my 94 K3500 (riveted in, drill out and replace with bolts) and my old 96 K3500 (pressed in, beat old one out with hammer, use floor jack to press new one in) and never needed a tool? Always like to make jobs easier though :thumbsup: