What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

Friday night is suppose to get up to 18 and a high Saturday of 32.
I’m thinking of calling Best Buy in Billings and see if I buy a double DIN unit from them if I can get that free installation on Saturday.
If so I’m thinking of driving to Billings and getting this double DIN thing taken care of.
IDK if they will install my dash face that has the large opening for a double din or if I need to do that before I get the truck to them.
I also would like to install speakers behind the empty grill covers in the front doors but I think thats something I would have to take care of Myself, aint gonna happen tomorrow or Friday.
I can make a round trip to Billings on less than aa tank of fuel then I’d go out to the Cenex ZIPTRIP and pump in fifteen gallons of their No.1 diesel and top up with their No2 Road Master fuel.
Then probably be set for the rest of the winter.

 

[jrsavoie]

Did you check that additive to see if it gets unless mixed with diesel?

If the truck is not running, no antigel will mix.

The anti needs to be put in before the ungelled fuel.

The truck needs to run for 20 minutes or so to get the antigel I. The filters and throughout the system

 

[Will L.]

Did you check that additive to see if it gets unless mixed with diesel?

If the truck is not running, no antigel will mix.

The anti needs to be put in before the ungelled fuel.

The truck needs to run for 20 minutes or so to get the antigel I. The filters and throughout the system

Unless you have the fass lp that when powerd up forces circulation AND have the hearer in their Lp.

If I was rich and famous like all y’all - thats what I would do and sell the ffm. Then mount a relay close to that location where the heater wire would trigger the relay and run new wire from battery: fuse: relay: new heater in LP.
You could add a switch at the relay to power it with key off and circulate fuel for this situation and priming filters, etc.

 

[MrMarty51]

Going to plumb in an LED light so if the LP is not getting power the LED light will extinguish.
Just cant have enough diagnostic tools with these old critters.

 

[MrMarty51]

That's why I went with just the raptor pump and the stock FFM

It was a real brain game trying to decide between just the raptor and the airdog.
From what I had been reading it seemed that the AD was the one to go with, having the water trap filter and all.
I had not give one thought of mesh size within the filters.
I might do some checking with NAPA and such and see if there is filters with some bigger mesh numbers.

 

[MrMarty51]

Ok- so both pressure gauges were zero?

The gauge on the LP- is it on the output of the lift pump or before the lift pump?

Did you install a heater in the liftpump pump? The better (finer micron) filters can gel easier than larger flow units. Like the airdogg ff-2 is a 2 micron and the ffm Declo unit is 5 microns. This is the biggest drawback of better filters, so airdogg & fass offer screw in heaters for their liftpumps.

The airdogg should be fine- that doesn’t hurt them as bad as it does the other design

And so if I can find 5 micron filters for the AD system then the chances of gel clog through the filters would be greatly decreased ?

 

[Will L.]

It was a real brain game trying to decide between just the raptor and the airdog.
From what I had been reading it seemed that the AD was the one to go with, having the water trap filter and all.
I had not give one thought of mesh size within the filters.
I might do some checking with NAPA and such and see if there is filters with some bigger mesh numbers.

That is counter active to the advantages of these set ups.


The better filter is but is not the problem. The fuel will still gel in the new filters at 5 micron: just 8-10 degrees colder.

Where is the factory fuel heater? At the filter location.
Where should it be in any system? At the filter location.
Much of the country doesn’t need one because it isn’t cold enough.
Whenever I drive into a part of the country that is that cold- I always planned it out and had near empty tank and fueled up in that area as close to 100% with the fuel from there because I figured thats how folks there did it.
Yup- lost some power
Yup -lost some mpg
Didn’t care it was less hassle than gelling up.

I am far from knowledgeable in the gelling world in practical experience. But training classes and understanding the fuel systems tells me jumping to a bigger filter shouldn’t be step one. You are making an improvement then when an outside factor impacts you rather than dealing with the factor you are undoing an upgrade and just ending up with more parts to change later.

I can’t remember air dogg but Fass just has a screw in heater.
If you do go to the 5 micron filter - it should be a LOT of miles before all the filters need replacing

 

[ak diesel driver]

If I owned a common rail I'd consider the air dog. IMO it's overkill for the 6.5. all I was after was a quality LP. I've never had any issues with the stock fuel system, other than LPs, and have around 400k miles under my belt

 

[MrMarty51]

That is counter active to the advantages of these set ups.


The better filter is but is not the problem. The fuel will still gel in the new filters at 5 micron: just 8-10 degrees colder.

Where is the factory fuel heater? At the filter location.
Where should it be in any system? At the filter location.
Much of the country doesn’t need one because it isn’t cold enough.
Whenever I drive into a part of the country that is that cold- I always planned it out and had near empty tank and fueled up in that area as close to 100% with the fuel from there because I figured thats how folks there did it.
Yup- lost some power
Yup -lost some mpg
Didn’t care it was less hassle than gelling up.

I am far from knowledgeable in the gelling world in practical experience. But training classes and understanding the fuel systems tells me jumping to a bigger filter shouldn’t be step one. You are making an improvement then when an outside factor impacts you rather than dealing with the factor you are undoing an upgrade and just ending up with more parts to change later.

I can’t remember air dogg but Fass just has a screw in heater.
If you do go to the 5 micron filter - it should be a LOT of miles before all the filters need replacing

I will stay with the two micron filthys, ooops, filters.
This weekend I’ll cut open the filters I removed and see if there is any thing moving through.
There was not on the original FFM system.

Warmer weather is on the way. Probably will see no more of this 30 below zero F stuff.
Have not yet ordered the heater kit but that will be the next on the list.
Maybe next month after My payment hits the CC. My goal is to quit spending and get that debt paid off. The interest is $300.00 right now but I need to stack about $300.00 a month on it for other things needed so my $1500.00 a month payment dont go to far on that hungry pig.

AirDog Self-Regulating Heater Kit for Pickup Trucks & Light Duty Systems

This heater system provides a simple solution, to add heat to your fuel system.

www.raneystruckparts.com

 

[Will L.]

If I owned a common rail I'd consider the air dog. IMO it's overkill for the 6.5. all I was after was a quality LP. I've never had any issues with the stock fuel system, other than LPs, and have around 400k miles under my belt

How often do you see the algae/ water/ ethanol problems up there?

 

[ak diesel driver]

for the most part none. do see water occasionally but usually it's from a homeowner with a 55 gallon drum.

 

[Paveltolz]

Pretty sure the Coolant Temperature Sender died. Was out doing some stuff and had normal temp readings until a couple of miles from home. Gauge needle started to bounce/flicker rapidly between 160 and 180 for a bit then just flatlined on the bottom peg. I did get the truck washed while out doing errands but, the inside of the connector was hot to the touch and bone dry when I checked.
I’ll get the scanner out and see if it’s sending signal to the ECM and either replace the sender if it isn’t or do some more trouble shooting.

 

[Will L.]

for the most part none. do see water occasionally but usually it's from a homeowner with a 55 gallon drum.

This could be why I hold more concern over it. We don’t have it in the vegas area often but I have family all around the western states and get the phone calls when most have car truck problems - so I hear of it often enough that it keeps me on alert for it. The justification for the cost is difficult in a 6.5 because how much is a new tank (or the cleaning after removing), some fuel lines,ip & injectors. This vs $1000. When the system go to any of the newer diesels the price almost instantly goes through the roof so it becomes a no brainer.
Then iirc- you guys still aren’t ever running in the 10% range of ethanol, only 5% and some places none at all. Thats a huge factor- the more alcohol

I basically look at it as you are buying a new system ahead of time. But by installing these filters and eliminating the ffm - your filter change time becomes 3 -4 times less often, and in pickups it’s crazy easier for the spin on ones underneath - and since they can go on empty thats easier than the stock location imo.
For years I was already telling family & friends do AD or Fass on newer one but didn’t recommend them on 6.5 because of cost. but it seems that since eggs cost $50 for an omelette now- maybe a grand for an LP w the best filters isn’t too bad- haha

Seriously something thats been on my mine is- we knew for years AC Declo had the only fuel filter for the ffm that was actually worth getting. But when WarWagon pointed out how they changed up how they make their oil filters- I worry what have they done with the fuel filters.
And I haven’t heard of anyone in 6.5 community testing those anymore.
Back when we did it last was shortly after 9/11- maybe 12/01 or 1/02 -
Wix /napa gold would be my only other guess.
Its been long enough all my filters on the shelf hit the trash can (I believe in 5 year shelf life theory). And my hummer has been down for ever so I haven’t done too many since I read about the filter quality change so idk.

 

[jrsavoie]

This could be why I hold more concern over it. We don’t have it in the vegas area often but I have family all around the western states and get the phone calls when most have car truck problems - so I hear of it often enough that it keeps me on alert for it. The justification for the cost is difficult in a 6.5 because how much is a new tank (or the cleaning after removing), some fuel lines,ip & injectors. This vs $1000. When the system go to any of the newer diesels the price almost instantly goes through the roof so it becomes a no brainer.
Then iirc- you guys still aren’t ever running in the 10% range of ethanol, only 5% and some places none at all. Thats a huge factor- the more alcohol

I basically look at it as you are buying a new system ahead of time. But by installing these filters and eliminating the ffm - your filter change time becomes 3 -4 times less often, and in pickups it’s crazy easier for the spin on ones underneath - and since they can go on empty thats easier than the stock location imo.
For years I was already telling family & friends do AD or Fass on newer one but didn’t recommend them on 6.5 because of cost. but it seems that since eggs cost $50 for an omelette now- maybe a grand for an LP w the best filters isn’t too bad- haha

Seriously something thats been on my mine is- we knew for years AC Declo had the only fuel filter for the ffm that was actually worth getting. But when WarWagon pointed out how they changed up how they make their oil filters- I worry what have they done with the fuel filters.
And I haven’t heard of anyone in 6.5 community testing those anymore.
Back when we did it last was shortly after 9/11- maybe 12/01 or 1/02 -
Wix /napa gold would be my only other guess.
Its been long enough all my filters on the shelf hit the trash can (I believe in 5 year shelf life theory). And my hummer has been down for ever so I haven’t done too many since I read about the filter quality change so idk.

I was always a believer in Baldwin filters.

I don't know that any are worth a crap anymore

 

[Will L.]

I was always a believer in Baldwin filters.

I don't know that any are worth a crap anymore

Well- this is part of my acceptance of Fass…
I did a bunch of reading/ looking online where folks have cut apart fass, had them tested in labs for if they actually filter as well as the advertise (they do) and show the construction of them. Went to a few local diesel shops that play in hotrod world for newer diesels and seen the cut up filters showing construction.


We on this forum complain everything is made cheap and breaks easy. What happened to being able to spend a little more and get quality that lasts…

The Fass LP system is the epitome of that. Many guys think these are getting used on mainly for pickups. No- these were not created for pickups. They were created for semi trucks. There are plenty of examples of these crushing the million mile mark.

For a guy with a worn out truck who might not go with same diesel again- it doesn’t make sense. But if a guy is saying “my new 6.5” it is hard for me to think this isn’t worth it for most folks.

Many guys likeme don’t get enough time to work on something as it is. So playing the which LP to try next game isn’t good. Time justifies some of the cost in some situations. But by no means is it always the right answer.

 

[MrMarty51]

This could be why I hold more concern over it. We don’t have it in the vegas area often but I have family all around the western states and get the phone calls when most have car truck problems - so I hear of it often enough that it keeps me on alert for it. The justification for the cost is difficult in a 6.5 because how much is a new tank (or the cleaning after removing), some fuel lines,ip & injectors. This vs $1000. When the system go to any of the newer diesels the price almost instantly goes through the roof so it becomes a no brainer.
Then iirc- you guys still aren’t ever running in the 10% range of ethanol, only 5% and some places none at all. Thats a huge factor- the more alcohol

I basically look at it as you are buying a new system ahead of time. But by installing these filters and eliminating the ffm - your filter change time becomes 3 -4 times less often, and in pickups it’s crazy easier for the spin on ones underneath - and since they can go on empty thats easier than the stock location imo.
For years I was already telling family & friends do AD or Fass on newer one but didn’t recommend them on 6.5 because of cost. but it seems that since eggs cost $50 for an omelette now- maybe a grand for an LP w the best filters isn’t too bad- haha

Seriously something thats been on my mine is- we knew for years AC Declo had the only fuel filter for the ffm that was actually worth getting. But when WarWagon pointed out how they changed up how they make their oil filters- I worry what have they done with the fuel filters.
And I haven’t heard of anyone in 6.5 community testing those anymore.
Back when we did it last was shortly after 9/11- maybe 12/01 or 1/02 -
Wix /napa gold would be my only other guess.
Its been long enough all my filters on the shelf hit the trash can (I believe in 5 year shelf life theory). And my hummer has been down for ever so I haven’t done too many since I read about the filter quality change so idk.

Look at the new NAPA GOLD FFM filter.
The nut is no longer a separate component.
That nipple on the top to bleed off air, forget hooking a hose to that, the air and fuel is going to squirt out around the area between the bleed stem and the filter top.
This is the second NAPA filter I installed, first one thinking it a fluke, nope, second one exactly the same.
If the AD had the pump run option switch like the Leroy LP harness it would be a lot easier. With the AD it is turn on the switch then get out, loose the bleed device on top the filter, watch for the air to emit and a small portion of fuel, tighten the bleed device then back out and turn off the ignition switch.

 

[jrsavoie]

Look at the new NAPA GOLD FFM filter.
The nut is no longer a separate component.
That nipple on the top to bleed off air, forget hooking a hose to that, the air and fuel is going to squirt out around the area between the bleed stem and the filter top.
This is the second NAPA filter I installed, first one thinking it a fluke, nope, second one exactly the same.
If the AD had the pump run option switch like the Leroy LP harness it would be a lot easier. With the AD it is turn on the switch then get out, loose the bleed device on top the filter, watch for the air to emit and a small portion of fuel, tighten the bleed device then back out and turn off the ignition switch.

That's why I like a toggle switch under the hood.

Some of the Oem style filters for the ffm's don't even have a hole going through the bleeder.

I went round a few laps with Baldwin on that issue

 

[jrsavoie]

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