What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[dieselolds]

The lower control arm is in along with the energy suspension bump stop.I have to say this control arm fit beautifully.Absolutely zero issues overall.One of the easiest I ever installed.No need to hammer anything in place.It fit like a glove.It just glided into position.

The only thing I had to change was the grease fitting that was supplied.I simply changed it out.The reason being was I could not make a complete left turn because the fitting was sticking out too much.Now there’s no interference.I put some rust check on the areas after it was assembled.Its the coat and protect product sold here in Canada.Its very similar to fluid film.

I didn’t mess with the bushings in the new control arm.I had prothane poly bushings here that would fit but I just decided to leave well enough alone.

The new lower control arms I ordered from Napa arrived yesterday for my 96 gmc truck.I have to say they are excellent quality and just as good as the moog brand I installed recently.Still waiting on the passenger side mevotech control arm to arrive from Amazon to finish up the 96 Chevy truck.

 

[dbrannon79]

I always wondered what that thing was... when I did a dash swap on my 95 there was one of these mounted under the new one. I pulled it off and kept it not knowing what it was!

 

[Big T]

I installed a CKO ProVent catch can on the ‘94 K2500 today. Took my time, scratch up the back of my hands, but it is in.



I had put a post asking which direction to install the check valve. I got it wrong, so I have some blowby coming out the valve cover grommet and more out the dipstick. It disappear when I remove the cap off the CKO ProVent. I will switch it tomorrow.

 

[Will L.]

Yeah- the drain valve backwards will basically plug all flow.

Did you buy the real filter yet or still the stainless steel knock off?

 

[Big T]

Yeah- the drain valve backwards will basically plug all flow.

Did you buy the real filter yet or still the stainless steel knock off?

I’m using the real filter.

 

[dbrannon79]

Is the check valve for the drain on the provent? I just used a small hose and a ball valve.

is your provent the real provent with the built in valve in the lower hose connection? mine was a CKO unit and did not have any valve in it other than one on the inside of the cap.

 

[Will L.]

When you have the drain hose go back to the block but not into the liquid filled area of the oil pan- you need the check valve or the system will not work at all.
He is draining his back into the oil return with the turbo drain.

Using a ball valve works if you have it going to a hose that you manually drain.
Usually people have the drain hose into a bottle then the ball valve drains out the bottle. The system doesn’t work as well using the check valve but still helps more than nothing.

I believe you can order just the check valve.

 

[dbrannon79]

On the hose routing for the provent, since mine did not have an internal valve inside the provent I did a little experimenting on it catching oil. I found that it catches more oil by runing the hose from the valve cover to the bottom connection on the provent and the top connection to the turbo inlet allowing the flow of gasses to be forced through the filter and up. I know the design of the provent is for the upper connection to come from the valve cover and foces the gasses to go in a circular pattern through the filter and down out the bottom connection.

as of recent I still have the stainless mesh filter in the CKO provent but it's now wrapped with what the shop at my work call elephant diaper. its a piece of oil absorbent material surrounding the stainless mesh filter. so far it seems to be doing well for catching most of the oil in the blow by.

I would like to connect some sort of pressure gauge on the engine so I could possibly measure internal crankcase pressure while driving just to see what is happening with the tuna can CDR still connected or without it.