What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[Paveltolz]

Christmas present from my wife...


...installed.

Service Tecs asked, 'did you drop that diesel in there yourself?'
"Yes, my brother 635 and I did the swap but, we didn't replace a gas motor, it came stock that way."
"No, really?"

Those of you with C/K 1500 understand that the struggle is real.

 

[smokymtn65]

Like explaining a 8 lug 1500 is not a rebuilt wreck...

 

[Big T]

How does that pipe fit the installed receiver ?
Another alternative would be to remove the receiver plate and die grind a chamfer in the top of the bore.
I have the earlier kit installed on My truck.
The receiver on Mine is a rigid pipe mounted to the plate. It sticks up and out away from the exhaust manifold.

It was made for the GM turbo charger. Easy enough to make the adaption, bored the oil return flange bolt holes a size bigger. Maybe now 5/16ths or 3/8ths.

The bore does have a chamfer in it:

 

[Big T]

Spent 5 hours on the turbo drain line tube install. Had to use a second drain line because the pre-bend in the first was never going to allow the install. Ended having to build the tube assembly from the engine up to the turbo. Install new tube to plate. Install plate to engine. Install tube to turbo.

Next step will be to connect the Pro Vent style catch can.

 

[MrMarty51]

@dbrannon79
Since switching from fhat Stanadyne IP driver module to the Dorman, the truck has not stalled in over 20 miles.
Maybe itiz fixed.

 

[MrMarty51]

If you been looking for an excuse to buy one of the $40 boroscopes on amazon- this is a good excuse. Pull the injector to see in there with the scope.


Do the tricks loosen any stuck rings. Beginning with fakey wmi treatment as the water misting will remove carbon from cylinders injector faces, and hopefully some carbon holding a ring or two stuck. (remember to undo pipe before cat/soot trap/muffler)
Then add the different liquids to try loosening the rings incase any are stuck. Long shot but a few hours and $20 could be worth it.

Then pour in the can of “Restore”. It can help clean up compression.

I know this aint a GMT400. I just needed a post with that “Restore” stuff advertised innit.
Looking for a thread/post that gives the specific name to that petroleum product. “RESTORE”.
I have the MG in the garage.
Oil consumption on that is a quart to 50 miles.
In the garage I also have at least one jug of Dexron 6 ATF.
Going to mix several batches with that Dex6 and suck it into the MG intake.
Mix it with water about 60% ATF and 40% water and then allow the engine to suffocate on the stuff and die. Give it about a half an hour, fire it up then pour the rest of the 25% in to finish the blow out.
Then thinking a couple cans of seafoam additive through the intake with about the same procedure.
Then, change the oil to that valvoline restore and also add in a couple of jugs of that “Restore” stuff and see if the oil consumption will dwindle at all.
Time will tell and I will report back inna separate thread.
Need to get the heater blower functioning so I got defoggers furst though.

 

[Big T]

I know this aint a GMT400. I just needed a post with that “Restore” stuff advertised innit.
Looking for a thread/post that gives the specific name to that petroleum product. “RESTORE”.
I have the MG in the garage.
Oil consumption on that is a quart to 50 miles.
In the garage I also have at least one jug of Dexron 6 ATF.
Going to mix several batches with that Dex6 and suck it into the MG intake.
Mix it with water about 60% ATF and 40% water and then allow the engine to suffocate on the stuff and die. Give it about a half an hour, fire it up then pour the rest of the 25% in to finish the blow out.
Then thinking a couple cans of seafoam additive through the intake with about the same procedure.
Then, change the oil to that valvoline restore and also add in a couple of jugs of that “Restore” stuff and see if the oil consumption will dwindle at all.
Time will tell and I will report back inna separate thread.
Need to get the heater blower functioning so I got defoggers furst though.

If it’s drinking a quart every 50 miles, the engine desperately needs a rebuild.

Valvoline Restore & Protect is the oil, but I doubt it will help in this case.

 

[Will L.]

Amazon.com

This is the one that was proven to work.
Idk about any others

 

[MrMarty51]

If it’s drinking a quart every 50 miles, the engine desperately needs a rebuild.

Valvoline Restore & Protect is the oil, but I doubt it will help in this case.

Yup, sucking every mile I can outta that little beast.
Surprising, it has not yet fouled a sparking plug.

 

[dieselolds]

A few nights ago I finished up the driver side ball joint's on my 96 Chevy K1500 with the 6.5 along with tie rods,cv axles on both sides among other things like control arm bushings,eccentric bolt kit,wheel bearing and new rotors from Amazon.Acdelco brake pads were used as well.Thedirt/dust seal on the backside of the steering knuckle is also in place.Its a SKP seal.The ball joints are Delphi brand with prothane control arm bushings.

The last thing I need to do is install the new pitman arm,idler arm with idler arm bracket.It’ll probably be another couple weeks before I get to do that.This truck also has the stainless steel brake line kit that I bought from eBay a few years ago.This truck just needs the body prepped for paint and then it’s road ready.

 

[Big T]

A few nights ago I finished up the driver side ball joint's on my 96 Chevy K1500 with the 6.5 along with tie rods,cv axles on both sides among other things like control arm bushings,eccentric bolt kit,wheel bearing and new rotors from Amazon.Acdelco brake pads were used as well.Thedirt/dust seal on the backside of the steering knuckle is also in place.Its a SKP seal.The ball joints are Delphi brand with prothane control arm bushings.

The last thing I need to do is install the new pitman arm,idler arm with idler arm bracket.It’ll probably be another couple weeks before I get to do that.This truck also has the stainless steel brake line kit that I bought from eBay a few years ago.This truck just needs the body prepped for paint and then it’s road ready.

Looking good.

 

[dieselolds]

Thanks Big T.I have the Napa fleet brand pitman arm and idler arm.Looks to be way better built than their proformer line.

I used a product similar to fluid film in around the back of the upper control arms where the bushings are.I figured it would be easier to apply the product on the chassis with the control arms out ahead of time.