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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

I love that lifting device.
IMG_0399.jpeg

The farthest forward notches was perfect.
IMG_0400.jpeg
Kept the nose in an upward angle throughout the lift.
I’m mighty glad that I unbolted the enjun mount saddles from the frame.
IDK how much weight one of those bolts could carry, not torqued down, just snugged to the plate, I would imagine it would be much greater than the weight of this engine, then, there is six of them.
I doubt that any three of the six would fail during this lifting process.
I would not work under the load though, just to be safe.
 
The stepson, He owns his own electrical company.
He showed up to help and in the process of getting set to pull the engine, He got a call.
An emergency electrical problem 45 miles away. He HAD to leave.
After He got back to town several hours later, He came directly over to see how the lift went.
We got to talking, me telling Him how good the MG is running, now turned to daily driver.
He decided to take it for a drive.
I figured, an hour.
Nope, He was really enjoying the time in that car. 😹
IMG_0401.jpeg
 
And the majority of the oil leak is revealed.
IMG_0407.jpeg
I always pack the backside of a seal with grease to keep the seal tensioning spring held in place.
IDK what happened here ?
I guess with the engine down in the hole and the radiator in place, aaand, my vision not being so good, I missed this one.
Or could have been my over confidence took over and I didnt even look to see that all was well. I cant imagine me not taking a look and seeing this. 🤷
Any how there it is.
It now is time to roll this engine over, except, I dont have a 1/4” square plug removal socket to install on a ratchet handle or flex bar to remove the block coolant drain plugs. They are in mighty tight. I tried a 1/4” to impact driver adapter in a 1/4” 3/8ths drive socket and ratchet. It broke off the drive end of the adapter.
After work, if the Snap On man is not in town, I will try heating the block around them plugs then use that drive adapter and see if them plugs will budge.
I will not roll this engine over until those plugs are pulled, the coolant drained into a pan and the oil pan is removed.
A big enough mess is always made even taking those two precautions.
 
I did once bust the square drive of a Snap On ratchet when trying to remove a plug.
He warned me that breakage such as that is not under warranty, He immediately knew what had happened.
He did run it under warranty with a warning, no more.
So at that time I bought the square drive adapters and have not busted a ratchet since.
The problem, I did not check this set.
There is no 1/4” adapter, but, there is two 9/32nds adapters.
I wonder if He will make an exchange or use this as a chance for a sale.
I’m betting on exchange.
I’ll throw in My $5.00 bill.
Anyone want to make the bet ? 😹😹😹
 
MrMarty51 said:
And the majority of the oil leak is revealed.
View attachment 89557
I always pack the backside of a seal with grease to keep the seal tensioning spring held in place.
IDK what happened here ?
I guess with the engine down in the hole and the radiator in place, aaand, my vision not being so good, I missed this one.
Or could have been my over confidence took over and I didnt even look to see that all was well. I cant imagine me not taking a look and seeing this. 🤷
Any how there it is.
It now is time to roll this engine over, except, I dont have a 1/4” square plug removal socket to install on a ratchet handle or flex bar to remove the block coolant drain plugs. They are in mighty tight. I tried a 1/4” to impact driver adapter in a 1/4” 3/8ths drive socket and ratchet. It broke off the drive end of the adapter.
After work, if the Snap On man is not in town, I will try heating the block around them plugs then use that drive adapter and see if them plugs will budge.
I will not roll this engine over until those plugs are pulled, the coolant drained into a pan and the oil pan is removed.
A big enough mess is always made even taking those two precautions.
Click to expand...
Use only a light application of grease on the lip for installation. Packing it with grease does nothing, as it will wash out with operation.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
I don't care for using the intake like that, I don't trust the threads...
Click to expand...
Agreed. It wouldn't bother me on a cast iron intake but I'm not yanking on aluminum like that. We actually have a similar plate and debated on it but at the end of the day both the old and new engine were lifted and lowered using the steel hooks attached to the heads from the factory.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I did once bust the square drive of a Snap On ratchet when trying to remove a plug.
He warned me that breakage such as that is not under warranty, He immediately knew what had happened.
He did run it under warranty with a warning, no more.
So at that time I bought the square drive adapters and have not busted a ratchet since.
The problem, I did not check this set.
There is no 1/4” adapter, but, there is two 9/32nds adapters.
I wonder if He will make an exchange or use this as a chance for a sale.
I’m betting on exchange.
I’ll throw in My $5.00 bill.
Anyone want to make the bet ? 😹😹😹
Click to expand...
Seeing as I put more than one tool guy’s kid through college- then later became a Mac guy… you better break out more than that 5er!
Mac tool advantage here- Mac sells the repair kits to the tool guy for $0.01 each.
So every person that I ever had to fix their ratchet- I brought in 4 kits- 1/4,3/8&1/2 plus the one they needed repaired. Showed them “look how easy this is” or whatever so they would see it is easy to drop in a kit whether on my truck or at their box. Then handed them the three extra repair kits “incase I’m not here and it ever happens again.” Snappy doesn't get to do it that way.

Breaking the ratchet on plugs was one of my selling points. I wouldn’t sell as many square drive kits but sold 4 times as many ratchets. AND who doesn’t like the sockets to match the ratchet…
 
Big T said:
Use only a light application of grease on the lip for installation. Packing it with grease does nothing, as it will wash out with operation.
Click to expand...
No. He is right to pack it full. Keeps the spring in as mentioned-Also add a tiny amount on the lip to lube until oil is flowing. The minor thickening of the oil is no biggie.
If you do NOT have a spring seal- then don’t pack it.
 
Ground a 9/32nds square plug drive to 1/4”. Got it to fit the square drive plug very nicely.
Heated the crap out of the block around the plug, with butane torch, first plug came right loose.
Second plug is screwed into the block real deep like. Sunk in below the level surface at least 1/4” or more.
Heated the piss out of the block around that plug. Stripped the square drive right out of the plug. That Snap On square plug drive adapter is a mighty tough unit. I think the Macs would be just as tough too, except for, we no longer have a Mac dealer in town. When we did, Be enjoyed the Elks club more than He did selling tools and so He didnt last too long and no one has stepped in to replace Him. Been more than 30 years.
With a wipe down on the three main webs I can clearly see, there is no sign of cracks on the webs.
I am also questioning if this is the original engine to this truck.
Maybe I’ll know more after getting the GPs removed and rotating it through a couple of strokes.
These damn engine stands.
The mounting plate is no where big enough to get a good center on the load.
I started to roll it over, hanging onto the pipe handle and that little stopper pin in hand. This thing started over and there was no stopping it, went totally upside down and I’ll have to get the son back to help Me get it righted.
Exhaust manifolds are next. Them bolts is plenty seized in the manifolds.
IMG_0429.jpeg
 
Marty, look at the block casting number behind the heads. one side will have the cast # and iirc the other side shows the date code. a quick DDG search will show what the date is on the block.

you seeing that there are no cracks on main webs gives me a little hope for my two trucks. the black 93 one has a block from a 99 that is wore out with blow-by. maybe I can possibly pull that one and do a refresh. I've been thinking about going through that 6.2 I have which does have some main cracking but "ran when parked" drop it into the 93 and do a full refresh on the 99 engine for the 95 truck. My only fear is when the IP on the 95 decides to fly the coop it could become a parts truck where all my focus would go towards the 93.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Marty, look at the block casting number behind the heads. one side will have the cast # and iirc the other side shows the date code. a quick DDG search will show what the date is on the block.

you seeing that there are no cracks on main webs gives me a little hope for my two trucks. the black 93 one has a block from a 99 that is wore out with blow-by. maybe I can possibly pull that one and do a refresh. I've been thinking about going through that 6.2 I have which does have some main cracking but "ran when parked" drop it into the 93 and do a full refresh on the 99 engine for the 95 truck. My only fear is when the IP on the 95 decides to fly the coop it could become a parts truck where all my focus would go towards the 93.
Click to expand...
I put this in a reply fir a PM. A guy in facebook pointed Me in this direction.

Martin Draper they have their own repair kit for 6.2/6.5 depending on the bolt holes. It is inserts where the threads are hook formed. So when you torque the inserts down they pull the cracks back together. It is also used with some sort of glue to make it really stuck. Then you use your factory bolts in the inserts. The inserts is a much stronger material then the block it self, so it will actually be stronger then factory. In my latest build I used splayed main caps in a cracked Optimizer block, and fixed the cracks with solid inserts to block of the outer bolt holes completely. It then got machined down like it was never there.
1725515284795.png



Thats a lock and stitch system.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Marty, look at the block casting number behind the heads. one side will have the cast # and iirc the other side shows the date code. a quick DDG search will show what the date is on the block.

you seeing that there are no cracks on main webs gives me a little hope for my two trucks. the black 93 one has a block from a 99 that is wore out with blow-by. maybe I can possibly pull that one and do a refresh. I've been thinking about going through that 6.2 I have which does have some main cracking but "ran when parked" drop it into the 93 and do a full refresh on the 99 engine for the 95 truck. My only fear is when the IP on the 95 decides to fly the coop it could become a parts truck where all my focus would go towards the 93.
Click to expand...
Number RH side of block, KO69
Engine still cradled upside down. On the one side of the block is a H28 and on the other side is a J25.
Thats all I can get for now until the ngine is once again uprighted.
 
I had dismantled the timing components.
Forgot, then rotated the crank a ways, washed the main web of the new exposed area with B&P cleaner.
There are no visible cracks in the webs that I can access.
Tried rotating the shaft a little farther and it got solid.
WTF
WELL DUHHHHHH. Guess I should not have been in such a hurry to remove the timing cover and components. 😹😹😹
 
MrMarty51 said:
Number RH side of block, KO69
Engine still cradled upside down. On the one side of the block is a H28 and on the other side is a J25.
Thats all I can get for now until the ngine is once again uprighted.
Click to expand...
K069 = November 06, 1999 at least from what I found on the innerwebs

www.dieselplace.com

How to tell what year a 6.5 is?

www.dieselplace.com www.dieselplace.com

Locate Your Engine Casting Date (GM 6.5 Block)

How to identify a block casting date on a stock "numbers matching" GM 6.5 diesel truck without removing or moving anything: Tools required: Flashlight and a Smartphone. Time required: 5 minutes first time. ~2 minutes every time after. Climb under the hood with flashlight in right hand...
www.thetruckstop.us

whats the production date on the sticker in the drivers door?
 
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