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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dbrannon79 said:
Well, today I pulled my 95 in the driveway again to re-do my hillbilly driveway alignment job. this time I got the truck as level and straight as possible, then used two small jacks on the LCA's up close to the ball joints to get the tires up off the ground. re-checked the level of the truck going off the radiator support. then with my magnetic torpedo level that has a level bubble with increments on the brake rotor hubs, adjusted the camber to as close to zero as possible. also checked the caster by placing another level behind the spindle lining up with the center of the lower ball joint and the upper. verified both sides were at a positive caster and at the same increment mark.

lastly I took two straight edge levels resting on the lower section of the rotors and a tape measure front and back of the rotors to set the toe. got it to 1/16" toed in. (at work we set the big trucks to 1/16 to 1/8" in) took the truck out for a drive and this made a huge difference. tracks straight and no pulling to ether side other than when your on a road with a steeper crown. I drove on a couple roads in town that I knew had a steep crown in both directions. I had to correct the wheel the same amount both ways left and right. so I will call that good enough.

I'm still getting some clunks and clanks turning sharp. I think this is from the coil springs since when I did the LCA bushings the rubber on the top of the springs were mostly gone. need to take to a shop to verify this. as for the gear box.... well I'm sure it's shot. I still feel the truck shift a little side to side as if the front tires will turn slightly when I hit a bump or rut in the road, but it's not near as bad as it was before I did this today. when the tires are up off the ground you can lock the steering wheel and still turn the tires side to side a little. I need to see what the best and affordable option is for a good gear box. RA wants around $400 for a new one, they show two brand but I'm not sure if these are good ones or not. for the red head ones, I have heard some folks have issues and others don't but theirs are all reman units. I would like to get new if possible.

More Information for BBB INDUSTRIES N5030128

www.rockauto.com

More Information for EDELMANN 3000

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Did a similar alignment on my truck after swapping in new ball joints, bushings, tie rods, centerlink etc. I used 4' levels centered on both wheels. Centered the steering wheel and then adjusted the tie-rods to get the back and front of the levels an equal distance from each other. Checked distance from the frame on both sides and re adjusted tie-rods again until they were parallel to the frame. Double checked for equal distance between the levels again...rinse and repeat. Didn't know about the toe-in but, I was just getting things ball parked to take it in for an alignment since I needed camber done too. They said I was pretty much balls on. Truck drove better before they did their stuff. Probably should have just redone what I did after they got the camber right...something else to do to pass some time.
 
Gonna change the lift pump today once the rain stops, it started leaking yesterday. It's been a year or so since last changed it so guess it was time to anyhow.. a delphie pump went up to 112.00 bucks. It's ridiculously. Glad for warranty.
Hopefully I'll get around to doing the wheel bearings today. I'm hearing a weird sound coming from the passenger side wheel when turning. I've got extra brake pads so I'll throw them on at same time. It's gotta be one or the other making the noise so either way it should fix it . And gonna change the passenger side sway bar bushing while I'm at it. Changed driver side one a month or so ago. Other side is tore up so get it done.
 
Beginning to prep the 95 for the trip to the Texas coast (Rockport TX) next weekend. Got the oil change done last night. this afternoon I replaced the fuel filter, re-charged the AC, and replaced the inside door handle on the drinker's door. I wanted to re-locate the aftermarket lift pump I installed right before my last trip to the other side of Houston TX. I installed Facet dura-lift pump like the one in the photo below, same one that's on the 93 up on the firewall next to the remote fuel water filter. I don't like it there because it's right above the engine catching all the heat on top of I can hear it running within the cab.

I had wanted to move it down on the frame rail near where the factory LP lived but I can't find a suitable place it will fit. The pump is designed to pull as much as it can push, so the distance from the tank under the hood isn't an issue, I just don't like it there. there is also no other place under the hood I can move it too other than maybe bolting it to the drivers side of the fan shroud. I might have to go that route.

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Got the lift pump changed..I think the old one was getting bad anyhow because the response time on the engine got substantially better. Probably didn't notice the old one was slowing down.
Changed the passenger side sway bar bushing..but noticed that on the driver side one the metal bracket that goes around the bushings is snapped clean in half.. anyone know anywhere that sells them?? Checked the local stores but they can't get one for some reason.
Didn't get to the wheel bearings. Took the driver's side tire off, the rotor would spin easily backwards, but trying to spin forward it would go a little ways then stop and couldn't over power it by hand..I'm thinking either the brake pads are worn irregular or maybe the rotor is warped.. not realy sure yet.. i dont think its the bearings cuz id imagine if it was bearings it would do same thing eithervforvard or backwards..just a guess. Sky started getting ugly so I called it quits.
 
Stoney said:
Got the lift pump changed..I think the old one was getting bad anyhow because the response time on the engine got substantially better. Probably didn't notice the old one was slowing down.
Changed the passenger side sway bar bushing..but noticed that on the driver side one the metal bracket that goes around the bushings is snapped clean in half.. anyone know anywhere that sells them?? Checked the local stores but they can't get one for some reason.
Didn't get to the wheel bearings. Took the driver's side tire off, the rotor would spin easily backwards, but trying to spin forward it would go a little ways then stop and couldn't over power it by hand..I'm thinking either the brake pads are worn irregular or maybe the rotor is warped.. not realy sure yet.. i dont think its the bearings cuz id imagine if it was bearings it would do same thing eithervforvard or backwards..just a guess. Sky started getting ugly so I called it quits.
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Make sure the caliper slides are working. if you need to check if the bearings are what's grabbing, you can use a large flat blade screw driver and wedge in between the rotor and pad and slightly spread compressing the piston some. spin the rotor and see if that freed it up.

I always use di-electric grease on the caliper bolts. the bolts should have steel tubes they go through which slide into the calipers. make sure they are well lubed and still have the rubber boots on them if not, go pickup a caliper hardware kit for them.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Beginning to prep the 95 for the trip to the Texas coast (Rockport TX) next weekend. Got the oil change done last night. this afternoon I replaced the fuel filter, re-charged the AC, and replaced the inside door handle on the drinker's door. I wanted to re-locate the aftermarket lift pump I installed right before my last trip to the other side of Houston TX. I installed Facet dura-lift pump like the one in the photo below, same one that's on the 93 up on the firewall next to the remote fuel water filter. I don't like it there because it's right above the engine catching all the heat on top of I can hear it running within the cab.

I had wanted to move it down on the frame rail near where the factory LP lived but I can't find a suitable place it will fit. The pump is designed to pull as much as it can push, so the distance from the tank under the hood isn't an issue, I just don't like it there. there is also no other place under the hood I can move it too other than maybe bolting it to the drivers side of the fan shroud. I might have to go that route.

View attachment 86687
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Is that flow through on fail?
I like the looks of that.

The lift pump on the lawn mower isn't working. Not yet diagnosed.

Which one did you get?
I thought I saw more than one part number

Looks small enough to be easily protected by a guard under the truck. I'm always scared of ripping things off. Even though I don't drive through fields much anymore.

Facet dura-lift pump - Google Search

www.google.com
 
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@dbrannon79 a nice location for LP is near the factory, but between the frame and the bed side. You can make a bracket to hold the pump up near the bed floor and it usually tucks any pump above the body line. I liked having fuel filters and the oil filter there also on mine. Slide under with the creeper and a big catch pan makes it real nice to drain and get no mess anywhere. Then slid a different taller drain pan under the engine for oil.
 
Will L. said:
@dbrannon79 a nice location for LP is near the factory, but between the frame and the bed side. You can make a bracket to hold the pump up near the bed floor and it usually tucks any pump above the body line. I liked having fuel filters and the oil filter there also on mine. Slide under with the creeper and a big catch pan makes it real nice to drain and get no mess anywhere. Then slid a different taller drain pan under the engine for oil.
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I will have to look up in there and see.
 
Maybe a dumb question but what's the advantage of the pump @dbrannon79 got compared to the regular stock one? I looked at the listing and that one is only like 10 bucks more than the stock pumps cost at AutoZone.. if that one is actually better I'll order it and get my money back out of the az pump
 
Without a fuel pressure gauge, people have no clue what is happening until it is time to replace the injector pump.

Get a gauge to see 8-14 psi, then compare cost vs how long they last.
Then choose accordingly.

The expensive LP with filters like the fass- pressure will never be a question, and rumor has it one burned out on a guy who was chasing bigfoot but the lochness monster came out and put a curse on the pump- somit failed and they both got away. Seriously the advantage of the larger and better filter is they last longer and don’t cost much more. Over time the fass filters would be less expensive because of size and having water separator a different unit than the filter.
 
@Stoney to be honest, other than the add on screen with sediment bowl on the pump this pump runs at the same pressure and seems to have the same flow rate as the factory EP-158 lift pump. This pump also can pull fuel up to 120 feet unlike the factory one that can only push. I have a gauge plumbed in under the hood and it seems to stay steady at 9 PSI at idle. it will drop somewhere between 3-5 on accelerations (gauge needle bounces too much for me to accurately see) I ordered this since the 93 truck I just bought has one and the gauge needle on it seems to hardly move from 9 PSI on it under load. when I bought this pump it was the same price as a factory LP. I figured what the heck I will try it out.

Now that I can't seem to find a decent mounting spot for it other than directly over the engine on the firewall, I might look into a different pump and use this one for the aux tank when I get around to plumbing in the lines to the main tank.

I don't want to sound like I am trying to say get this instead, it's not an impressive pump. you also will have to figure out a mounting place too since it will not fit inside the frame rail. if anything I should have ordered their higher pressure pump that shows a 50 GPH flow instead if this one that's a 30 GPH and used a pressure regulator so I could keep it at a constant 8-14 PSI all the time.

BTW @jrsavoie I think asked if it was a flow though design. I doubt it is. when I was installing it, I had the engine running while I was playing with the wires. I pulled the relay shutting off the pump and saw the IP sucking the bowl empty!! I turned off the engine before it sucked it dry and starved the IP.
 
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If you want to have flow on fail as a feature on an LP that isn’t- just install a T before and after the LP. Then connect the two T fittings with a one way check valve between them so the fuel only can flow from tank around the LP to the ip.

The check valve stops the LP from pumping back to the tank and when the LP is working it will pull from the tank to the ip as normal. When the LP dies, the ip can suck fuel past the check valve from the tank.

As to the gauge under the hood- you have to see it when accelerating hard under a load like towing uphill. If you used ago pro or phone recording to verify, Then realize this is where the pump will become weakest first as it wears. Definitely way better than never monitoring- just check it something like each oil change.
 
Started looking at ordering a replacement window motor for the 93. looking on the auto parts website I noticed that all they carry are remanufactured replacements. this got me to thinking... back in the day they used to sell repair kits for windows motors. not sure if that covered our rigs, but the kit came with a gear, grease, and sometimes the cover.

I did some diagnosing on the truck and found that the motors works but a tooth must be broken inside since it skips in one spot now. and when it gets the right spot it will jam up and not move. when it works it goes up and down without a hitch, not slow or anything making me think that if I can find just the gear to replace I would be golden. are kits like this available for our rigs? Lord knows I don't want a reman motor! I'd rather buy chineesium new over reman these days HAHA.
 
Went and filled up the 93 truck for the second time! I was able to get it's first fuel mileage reading. 15.6MPG. I was expecting worse with all the fooling around I have been doing on it. even with it's wore out engine with blowby I'm impressed.
 
Lift Pump relocation. I used some square post material to get the additional clearance I needed for the Air Dog (died). The material was only 1.5 inches though and you'll need enough to build out for the full 2.5" of clearance. You could double it up though... Here's my brain-fart idea. It worked though.

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IMG_1140.JPG IMG_1144.JPGIMG_1169.JPG
 
This gives me a couple of ideas, it would require me to drill two mounting holes in the frame, but I have some "L" brackets that are maybe 1.5" on one side and at least 3" on the other. fairly stout too, similar to a piece of 1.5x3 angle iron. They have holes in them and are made for tractor trailer air brake valves. I might be able to bolt two together in a "Z pattern where one surface would bolt to the inside if the frame channel and would stick out past the channel then go up towards the cab floor. this might give me clearance to mount the LP and not have the clear bowl hanging below the frame.

Edit: here is a pic of the bracket. I have a bunch of these at work, we usually toss them.

1710727519625.jpeg
 
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