What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

Looks like I need to address my valve covers soon, it seems the oil leak is getting worse. Oil dripping off the frame and cross member up front. I just hate to have to go back in tearing everything down again. I managed to get all the IP lines off and back on with a open end wrench, but it wasn't easy.

what tool do you guys recommend to remove and install the IP lines from the back of the IP? I forget what size wrench I used, would a open end claws foot be best?

A long time ago, when working on these engines and a lot of hydraulic systems I purchased a set of those off set wrenches, both ends open ended, one end at a greater angle than a standard open end wrench. That set gets them all. It is a made in china ATD thing so I imagine HF would have it on the shelf.
IIRC, this was something the local NAPA store had on a bin.
I do not remember the size range but believe it goes from about a 3/8ths to at least 1-1/4”.

 

[jrsavoie]

went into town tonight for some dinner from yard bird central (Chicken Express). I was amazed at how much quieter the cab noises were. I guess that old dash had a lot of rattles in it. I also noticed that my WTS light is not working anymore. at first I thought I must have blown the glow plug fuse during the process, but I soon realized at the drive though window when I turned on the key I could hear my lift pump working for a few seconds and stops, telling me the glow plugs are working and the bulb in the cluster is out.

I will add that to the list of to do's. to pull the cluster back out and replace the bulb.

A long time ago, when working on these engines and a lot of hydraulic systems I purchased a set of those off set wrenches, both ends open ended, one end at a greater angle than a standard open end wrench. That set gets them all. It is a made in china ATD thing so I imagine HF would have it on the shelf.
IIRC, this was something the local NAPA store had on a bin.
I do not remember the size range but believe it goes from about a 3/8ths to at least 1-1/4”.

I have 2 sets, 1 each in standard and metric.

 

[MrMarty51]

Looks like I need to address my valve covers soon, it seems the oil leak is getting worse. Oil dripping off the frame and cross member up front. I just hate to have to go back in tearing everything down again. I managed to get all the IP lines off and back on with a open end wrench, but it wasn't easy.

what tool do you guys recommend to remove and install the IP lines from the back of the IP? I forget what size wrench I used, would a open end claws foot be best?

They are brand name of the offset wrenches is ATD and the number on the tool roll is 1181.

 

[MrMarty51]

I have 2 sets, 1 each in standard and metric.

I never did purchase the metric set. Most what I needed the wrenches for was standard and the metric sizes I did need the Standard wrench sizes seemed to get by.

 

[Big T]

Looks like I need to address my valve covers soon, it seems the oil leak is getting worse. Oil dripping off the frame and cross member up front. I just hate to have to go back in tearing everything down again. I managed to get all the IP lines off and back on with a open end wrench, but it wasn't easy.

what tool do you guys recommend to remove and install the IP lines from the back of the IP? I forget what size wrench I used, would an open end claws foot be best?

Buy a cheap 19mm box wrench and cut out a portion of the box to allow it to slip over the hard fuel line and down onto the nut.

 

[dieselolds]

went into town tonight for some dinner from yard bird central (Chicken Express). I was amazed at how much quieter the cab noises were. I guess that old dash had a lot of rattles in it. I also noticed that my WTS light is not working anymore. at first I thought I must have blown the glow plug fuse during the process, but I soon realized at the drive though window when I turned on the key I could hear my lift pump working for a few seconds and stops, telling me the glow plugs are working and the bulb in the cluster is out.

I will add that to the list of to do's. to pull the cluster back out and replace the bulb.

Absolutely beautiful job on painting the dash.I need to do the same with mine.My dash is also beige.Hats off to you

 

[Paveltolz]

Well crap, now what?
First drive
Truck shifts HARD and audibly from 1st to 2nd. Even just barely idling up to speed it bangs into 2nd.
Heaven forbid one actually accelerates normal. Any thing above normal and the tires bark.
Just 1st to 2nd.
Weird. Only change is new shocks and leaf springs which lowered the back end.
I’d investigate but, I’m pinned down again.

 

[dbrannon79]

How much of a height loss was there? I am wondering if you were to lift the rear off the ground and support by the frame so the diff will hang. then see if it still shifts hard. you might need to lightly apply the parking brake just to have some resistance on the wheels to tell the hard shifting.

I am wondering if the change in the angle of the diff or u-joints might have done it. I doubt it though. check you slip joint if it has one by the center support bearing. if it's completely compressed when the wheels are on the ground. but again I doubt any of that would have changed unless the centering pin is slightly more forward than the old springs. I'm sure that would have been real noticeable after the install.

 

[MrMarty51]

Well crap, now what?
First drive
Truck shifts HARD and audibly from 1st to 2nd. Even just barely idling up to speed it bangs into 2nd.
Heaven forbid one actually accelerates normal. Any thing above normal and the tires bark.
Just 1st to 2nd.
Weird. Only change is new shocks and leaf springs which lowered the back end.
I’d investigate but, I’m pinned down again.
View attachment 84050

Sweet child, love Your shirt too.

 

[dbrannon79]

Welp, I'm starting to make some plans to try and attack the valve cover gaskets this weekend. checked the local auto parts house to see if they had gaskets in stock. then I decided to order these hold downs off the jungle site. I might be able to bend and tweak the long ones to help push in the right places on the lower side of the covers. the smaller ones should work for the top side. if not I can get another set of the long ones for the top. ether way I hope they will be better than nothing.

I will attempt to mock them up using the 6.2 on the stand before trying to use them on the truck. although the covers weren't leaking but very little before I had to open it all up due to the rocker arm shaft bolts backing out. I've been driving it for a few weeks now after that escapade so I can check the bolts while I'm in there and see how the bolt n washer mod I did for the rocker buttons are doing too.

Ordered two sets of the top one and one set of the bottom ones.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[Paveltolz]

How much of a height loss was there? I am wondering if you were to lift the rear off the ground and support by the frame so the diff will hang. then see if it still shifts hard. you might need to lightly apply the parking brake just to have some resistance on the wheels to tell the hard shifting.

I am wondering if the change in the angle of the diff or u-joints might have done it. I doubt it though. check you slip joint if it has one by the center support bearing. if it's completely compressed when the wheels are on the ground. but again I doubt any of that would have changed unless the centering pin is slightly more forward than the old springs. I'm sure that would have been real noticeable after the install.

2.5 - 3" drop in rear end height.
The centering pins didn't initially drop into the holes (which were oblong from the previous 4" lift springs) but dropped in when torqueing down the U-Bolts.
The Ladder Bars didn't line up after OEM springs were installed so those are not installed anymore.
I'll check the slip joint for compression in the morning.
I pulled codes and nothing transmission related. Just need to put a couple of incandescent bulbs back in...small #74 one for the Service Throttle lamp and maybe one other.

 

[dbrannon79]

Whats a good engine de-greaser to use in a pump sprayer to coat the engine before washing? I might hit the sides of the block and the frame where everything is covered in oil. plus my parking spot that has turned solid black now. Ive heard the purple power is decent. heck I might even swipe the can of oven cleaner from the kitchen for the caked on stuff too LOL

 

[dbrannon79]

2.5 - 3" drop in rear end height.
The centering pins didn't initially drop into the holes (which were oblong from the previous 4" lift springs) but dropped in when torqueing down the U-Bolts.
The Ladder Bars didn't line up after OEM springs were installed so those are not installed anymore.
I'll check the slip joint for compression in the morning.
I pulled codes and nothing transmission related. Just need to put a couple of incandescent bulbs back in...small #74 one for the Service Throttle lamp and maybe one other.

I would think it would take a major angle change to cause the drive line to bind up, I just couldn't think of anything else that might have caused a sudden hard shift issue. of course you would have heard noise just rolling down the road.

You didn't do anything up front? Like disconnect batteries where maybe a ground issue or something could have surfaced?

 

[MrMarty51]

Welp, I'm starting to make some plans to try and attack the valve cover gaskets this weekend. checked the local auto parts house to see if they had gaskets in stock. then I decided to order these hold downs off the jungle site. I might be able to bend and tweak the long ones to help push in the right places on the lower side of the covers. the smaller ones should work for the top side. if not I can get another set of the long ones for the top. ether way I hope they will be better than nothing.

I will attempt to mock them up using the 6.2 on the stand before trying to use them on the truck. although the covers weren't leaking but very little before I had to open it all up due to the rocker arm shaft bolts backing out. I've been driving it for a few weeks now after that escapade so I can check the bolts while I'm in there and see how the bolt n washer mod I did for the rocker buttons are doing too.

Ordered two sets of the top one and one set of the bottom ones.

Amazon.com

View attachment 84053

Amazon.com

View attachment 84054

The smaller triangulated units I had to bore the holes larger so they could pass over the metric girdle studs. The bolts is the same size as the studs. 8mm IIRC.

 

[Paveltolz]

I would think it would take a major angle change to cause the drive line to bind up, I just couldn't think of anything else that might have caused a sudden hard shift issue. of course you would have heard noise just rolling down the road.

You didn't do anything up front? Like disconnect batteries where maybe a ground issue or something could have surfaced?

Nothing done up front. Only noticeable noise was rolling around the neighborhood slowly and manually in 1st gear.
I really hate the lower look anyway so I’m ordering new bushings for these BDS springs and will wrestle them back in (weight more than twice what the stock units do.

As for an engine degreaser, I‘ve had good results with Dollar Store version of Oven Off. Did ok with parts store stuff too.

 

[Husker6.5]

Gunk makes a pump spray bottle (not an aerosol spray can) engine degreaser that I've had great results with. It clings well, cuts through just about everything and with my little Harbor Freight 1600 psi power washer to rinse it all off with, everything was bare metal sparkling clean when I was done.

 

[jrsavoie]

Engine cleaning. Hopefully today.

I'm always nervous about damaging paint and plastics.

I once got the wrong kind of Brake Clean on a wire loom while doing brakes and watched it instantaneously shrivel.

I'm a believer that a little of the wiring and connector issues are a combination of getting improper fluids on the the plastic items.

I have mostly stuck with Simple Green ever since

Is damaging plastic stuff an issue with the oven cleaner?

 

[MrMarty51]

Whats a good engine de-greaser to use in a pump sprayer to coat the engine before washing? I might hit the sides of the block and the frame where everything is covered in oil. plus my parking spot that has turned solid black now. Ive heard the purple power is decent. heck I might even swipe the can of oven cleaner from the kitchen for the caked on stuff too LOL

Get You a couple of them quart or so jugs of BBQ lighter fuel. That stuff is the exact same stuff as parts cleaning solvent and it comes in a nice squirt style container.
It will not harm rubber or plastics, except maybe brake system rubber components.
Squirt some of that onto the engine or oily components. Let it sit for a short while, give components another shot then scrub it around with a parts cleaning brush, an old paint brush or even a rag soaked in the stuff, then hose off the remnants.
If You want a real clean look, keep one of those containers, rinse it out with water, dump in some dish warshing detergent, too it up with water and stir or shake it up real good then squirt everything down with that, let it soak a while, squirt on some more and let it soak, You can scrub it around too.
Rinse it off with water and the cleaned areas should be near clean enough to serve food off from.

 

[Paveltolz]

Get You a couple of them quart or so jugs of BBQ lighter fuel. That stuff is the exact same stuff as parts cleaning solvent and it comes in a nice squirt style container.
It will not harm rubber or plastics, except maybe brake system rubber components.
Squirt some of that onto the engine or oily components. Let it sit for a short while, give components another shot then scrub it around with a parts cleaning brush, an old paint brush or even a rag soaked in the stuff, then hose off the remnants.
If You want a real clean look, keep one of those containers, rinse it out with water, dump in some dish warshing detergent, too it up with water and stir or shake it up real good then squirt everything down with that, let it soak a while, squirt on some more and let it soak, You can scrub it around too.
Rinse it off with water and the cleaned areas should be near clean enough to serve food off from.

And here I thought the phrase “wash it with gas and dry it with match” was just sarcasm.

 

[dbrannon79]

I just finished installing the hold downs and washing the engine and driveway. I decided to hold off on pulling the entire thing down and replacing the valve cover gaskets. when I had just pulled it apart for the valve train issue, the gaskets were still intact and pliable. so I figured just do this first and see if the leak subsides to a seep or stops entirely.

I will say it was a royal PIA to get the brackets that hold the IP lines off from the passenger side without pulling everything down, but I got it. I didn't put them back since I had to go source some longer bolts from the hardware store to accommodate the thickness of the hold downs.

what was cool was I was able to install the hold downs on the lower section of the valve covers with out having to re-shape them like I thought I would for the curvyness of the lower side of the covers. They also will work perfectly on the top side near the intake too, I just need to order another 2 sets. I didn't use the triangle ones for this reason. Hopefully they will add enough clamping force in the right places to stop the leaks.

If they work, I will need to order some m8x1.25x40 studs and some flange nuts so I can put the brackets back in place.