The Stealth BOMB'r is under the knife

[Cumminalong]

Got started on the block stiffener to accept the main studs today.

The main studs are not a drop in fit, you do have to drill the block stiffener to clear the sutds and nuts.

Careful layout is critical here, otherwise you'll mangle the stiffener.

Measure, measure, measure......

Here you can see how much clearance you need to gain.....

Measure your center to center distance on the studs and carefully lay everything out on the stiffener before cutting or drilling.....

Drill your pilot holes and verify alignment before drilling your main holes.....

Once you're happy, get to work.....

Modified Block Stiffener.....

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Looks great Rich. Did you already have a block stiffener down there before now? Does whoever make the stiffener plate offer a modified version for people who have main studs? Or is it pretty much something you have to do on your own?

 

[Cumminalong]

The stiffener plate is already there from the factory.

There are kits available to use with both the standard length studs (the ones I have) and the extra long studs (these tie the mains to the stiffener), but they cost in the neighborhood of $400 for a modified block stiffener.

You can do it at home, you don't need all the sexy crap to do it.

Can you do it with a drill? Yes, but at least use a drill press.

Do you need a mill? No. You could certainly clearance the two rear stud locations with dremel, it's not really a precision fit back there.

As long as you take your time, modifying the girdle isn't too bad. Although, it certainly helps to have a digital mill. Makes short work of something like this.

 

[Cumminalong]

YEAH BABY!

):h

Let's see, safe and sound BY FEDEX!

Now to send them out for coating.......

 

[12ga diesel]

Ohhh... Those are purdy!!

 

[Cumminalong]

Well, the new pistons went out today.

Sent them up to Swain Tech for the coating.

Hopefully I get them back in usable condition this time.

Got all the fittings and hose ordered to convert the trans from the steel hard lines to braided AN lines and delete the heat exchanger on the driver side of the block.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Well, the new pistons went out today.

Sent them up to Swain Tech for the coating.

Hopefully I get them back in usable condition this time.

Got all the fittings and hose ordered to convert the trans from the steel hard lines to braided AN lines and delete the heat exchanger on the driver side of the block.

A word of advice, don't use that new lightweight AN hose with the black wrap on it. I used it on mine to save a few bucks and it isn't holding up to the ATF very well at all. I've already had to redo all of the ends and replace some of the hose where it is breaking apart inside. Gonna have to bite teh bullet and buy some -10 braided hose and redo em all.

 

[Cumminalong]

No nylon hose here, it's all stainless.

 

[Cumminalong]

So, got some more work done today.

Figured I'd get all the stuff assembled on the head.

Made a few modifications to some existing parts and added some new ones.

First, gutted the grid heater.....I live in AL, it's never cold enough to need it. For you Dmax and PowerStroke guys, this is what we have instead of glow plugs.

Assembled the new intake horn and accessories. 3 of the fittings are for water, 1 is for the boost gauge and the one that has the plug in it will be the second nitrous stage.

Started to put all the crap back on the head so it's ready to go.

1/2 NPT to -12 NPT fitting for the bypass (this isn't the fitting that is staying on it)

Rocker studs are back in.

Modified the fitting for the heater core. 2 reasons for this....First, the opening at the bottom is only 3/16 of an inch, whereas the rest of the fitting is 3/8, so I opend that up to 3/8 to allow full flow through there. Second, I put it in the lathe and took off the top of it that is EXTREMELY sharp and tends to cut the heater core hose and cause a leak.

I forgot to get pics of it before modifying it. These are the after pictures.

The valve cover is going the get painted, just haven't decided on what I want to do here yet. But to get it prep'd, I wanted to make sure the engine serial was always there, so the valve cover got stamped and the all the stickers got removed.

And, other than the fuel system, the head is ready to go. I'll get the injectors, lines and rail cleaned up tomorrow and put on.

And yes, that is an LBZ pump for my second CP3.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Good luck with the pistons this time around Rich. And the head is starting to look great.

I thought you had a CTM manifold? maybe its the pictures but that looks like either aluminum or cast from here. Thought the CTM ones where composite?

 

[Cumminalong]

Good luck with the pistons this time around Rich. And the head is starting to look great.

I thought you had a CTM manifold? maybe its the pictures but that looks like either aluminum or cast from here. Thought the CTM ones where composite?

I HAD a CFM+ on it.

The problem is, they don't do wll with high boost and nitrous.

A good nitrous back fire tends to dissintegrate the CFM's.

The new one is an S&B.

:thumbsup:

 

[BigBlueChevy]

CFM+... that's right. CTM makes U-joints lol.

In your opinion would you say that the CFM manifolds really affect IAT's as compared to an alloy one? Or is it just marketing. How much boost is too much for those manifolds?

 

[Cumminalong]

As fast as that air is moving, I think it's HIGHLY unlikely that it affects temperature at the intake.....not enough to make an impact on power anyways.

I routinely put 72 lbs of boost through that CFM+.

I was more concerned about spraying it than I was with the boost. One good nitrous back fire and that thing would have been in pieces. That's the weak point on the CFM+.

For the average user, it's a nice piece......I'm REALLY diggin this S&B though.

 

[Cumminalong]

So I started putting a few things back on the motor today.

Got the head as far as I can go until it's put back on, so I figured I start on the block.

Test fit the rings and head gasket today.....can't wait to get this thing clamped back down.

Nothing big, just put the motor mounts on, oil pressure sensor, block heater, started cleaning the oil filter head and heat exhanger, but then a buddy got here and we started on his cam issue.

 

[Cumminalong]

Awwww Hell........business just picked up, baby!

Must give much love to Swain Tech Coatings. 2 day turn around and they got here safe and sound.

 

[Cumminalong]

Okay, a question was asked about wiring the remote mount batteries.

THE 2 most important things on this are:

1 - GOOD GROUNDS!

2 - MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SLAVE CABLE BETWEEN THE TWO BATTERIES. The alternator charges at the passenger side, but the voltage and charge state is seen by the ECM on the driver side. If that cable is not there and the ECM sees the driver side going dead, it will tell the alternator to ramp up the voltage. This will cause the system to throw aprox 18 volts to the passenger battery, which is still charged and the battery WILL exploded after a VERY short distance.

Here is how this thing is rigged up. I used, 1 gauge wire throughout.

Remember, batteries grounded to frame, engine grounded to frame, body grounded to frame, body grounded to block (ground strap in trans tunnel) and you won't have ground issues.

 

[Cumminalong]

Got the crank, rods, pistons, flex plate, bearings and bolts dropped off for balancing this morning. Guaranteed to be within 1 gram.

Should have it all back by the end of the week.

 

[Cumminalong]

Here's todays progress.

She's starting to look like a motor again.

I've got about as much done now as I can until the rotating assembly gets back.

Got the oil filter housing, turbo oil supply lines, water pump, ECM, and motor mounts back on.

Oil squirters are back in the block.....

Swapped out the front and rear main seals.....

Now I just need the rotating assembly back.

 

[Cumminalong]

So, today was nothing sexy.

I just started making the much heavier duty engine dolly that will be able to support the entire engine as it's being assembled.

Instead of it bolting to the back like the engine stand, it'll use the engine mounts and 2 of the holes that the engine stand uses now.

Started with a 20' stick of 2 x 4 x 11 gauge stock and a set of 4 wheels rated at 450 lbs each and got busy.

Just need to make the uprights and we'll be in business.

 

[Cumminalong]

Got the rotating assembly back today.

Need to finish the engine dolly today and tomorrow the motor starts going back together.

Here's the balance sheets.

Now remember, rotational weight has a MUCH larger impact on performance than static weight. For every lb of rotational weight or imbalance that you remove, it's like losing 10 lbs of static weight.

The crank lost approx 2.3 lbs of rotational imbalance. That's like removing 23 lbs of static weight from the crank.